Paul and Joyce in Kenya

Home Again, Home Again, Jiggity, Jiggity, Jiggity, Jiggity, Jiggity, Jig

2010-10-28T10:58:00.001-07:00

Oct 26, 2010 – Not sure when this will get posted. Some of you may have seen me by the time you read this.

It’s 9:40pm, Tuesday. Joyce and I are in the airport waiting for our first flight that ends Wednesday about 9:30pm in Portland. that sounds like just 24 hours, but with the time gain, maybe it is a loss, it’s actually 34 hours. Counting the time leaving our place in Nairobi, it will be closer to 36 hours. If you go from Mbita, well then you start counting in days, about 5 and a half.

By the way, the flight takes off about 2 hours later than we usually go to bed and later than I think we have been up since we hit Mbita.

The exit has been leisurely. Left Mbita Sat morning, with Joe driving us to Kisumu via the ferry. Made good time and got to spend 2 nights with Morgan in Kisumu. Did a little last minute shopping, one more run to the great ice cream place (make that two for me) for a last couple scoops of deliciousness. Dinner at Rachelle’s. All in all a good time.

Took the 8 am Easy Coach bus from Kisumu to Nairobi on Monday morning. Quick ride, but the suspension on Kenyan buses is a little stiff. Even when the road looked mostly smooth, it was a bumpity bump bump ride.

Oh – flash back time. Vicki arrives in Kisumu and we are traveling down the road. Many little stalls lining the way, with wares of all different sorts. She spots some rope looking things and asks – “What are those rope like things hanging on the stalls?” “Ropes” we answer and have a good laugh.

A day or so later, we are walking in Downtown Kisumu. We’ve just had a snack, or maybe a soda and Vicki has a little piece of trash to dispose of. She turns to Joyce and I and asks, in all seriousness “where do they throw their trash here?” as she is looking around the trash pit street we are walking along for a receptacle. Joyce replies, quite sarcastically, “have you looked around?”

Guess those items were funnier if you were there.

in Zurich Switzerland now. It’s 8:38 the next day I think. That’s am not pm. The flight was marginal. A little cramped and for some reason the seat seemed really uncomfortable, sort of like a matatu. It’s was about zero degrees outside when we landed. Whether that is Celsius or Fahrenheit doesn’t really matter when you’ve come from 3 months where it seldom dipped below 70, even at night. And you have only your summer clothes. I don’t think we are going to go sight seeing.

We have about 6 hours here in the airport. Not much to look at. At least in the wing that we are in. In fact, the shops have not even opened yet. and we have more than 5 hours until our next flight.

The next flight is to San Francisco and scheduled for 12 + hours in the air. Yeah. This one could be a killer. With the time change we get in 3 hours later, about 4:30pm. This will be 2:30 am for us, then we get to wait for a few hours before the last leg. Hope we don’t fall asleep at the gate and sleep through the boarding.

It’s going to be interesting on the 12 hours to SF. Hoping after the first meal to pop an Ambian and sleep the middle part of the trip away. But it will be day light the whole way. We have the seats A and B. Hoping that it’s only 2 seats on the side like the last plan, even though it is a different model.

The airport is waking up – shops opening, gates getting ready for passengers and customer service reps in place.

I did get a little excited when I noticed a selection of about a dozen magazines at the various gates. That is until I went to pick one and found that they ALL where in some gibberish language that I could not comprehend.

Noq about 11 am on the 28th. Made it home. Slept most of the long flight away – at least 7 hours of it, with the help of 3 drinks and an Ambian.

My feet are cold. But can’t bring myself to put on socks, much less shoes. I’m wearing a sweatshirt for the first time in like 4 months. Still have to remember it is okay to drink the tap water. All the luggage made it. Don’t think I slept last night, if I did it was not for more than an hour. I got out of bed at 5am this morning and started to unpack the clothes we had packed away – I needed to find something I hadn’t worn in 4 months. I’m really sick of the clothes i had along – most of them are the same ones as last trip. Thought about burning them. Actually thought about burning all my clothes and start fresh – but I think I’ll need to get a job before I pursue that thought. The shower was great last night, the bed was wonderful. I don’t think I ever mentioned how bad beds are in Kenya, particularly Mbita. Need to catch up on Survivor. The house seems to be in great shape. Not sure what time my body thinks it is. I think I am a little brain dead right now, thoughts are starting and just stop part way through. The car started – yeah.

Signing off from home,

Paul

Last CGA Day

2010-10-22T01:17:00.001-07:00

Oct 22, 2010 – It’s been a while since I’ve written anything. I guess I’ve just been distracted by the fact I know our days are numbered here in Kenya. Also with Steve and Judi back the days seem a little more full, with the explaining what we have done and just catching up.

Our time here at CGA is almost complete. It is actually complete for Joyce, but I’m still hanging around some.

Joyce got to participate in chapel again this morning, getting the kids to sing some of the songs from the Christmas Pageant that she has been working on while we’ve been here. She ended with getting the principal up front to help lead ‘Hey Hey Mon’. The kids loved it and all had a good laugh. If you know the song, you can imagine why.

Our saying good bye and them saying it to us went with fewer tears than expect on Joyce’s side. I, and her, was sort of expecting a good stream of water coming from her, but they made it quick and pretty fast which did help. I even teared up a little, but pulled it together pretty quickly.

We got presented with card from each grade and the teachers. Reading material for the plane. They usually give out more, but I think we got all the usual volunteer gifts the last time we were here. It caused some concern to the head master that he had nothing to give, but I doubt it would be anything nearly as good as our pictures and memories.

Well, hopefully another one or two blogs before we get home.

Paul

Just Two Weeks

2010-10-13T00:40:00.001-07:00

Sept 13, 2010 – Hard to believe that in just two weeks we will be home. Not quite actually, two weeks plus a day if you consider the time difference and the fact we arrive late in the day and it’s still morning here.

But none the less, the time is wrapping up.

“None the less” does that that phrase really make sense? Hearing some of the phrasing locals use hear makes you stop and contemplate these things.

We had the biggest rain of our trip so far last night. Ended up with a pretty good puddle of water on the veranda. Must have blown in through the screen windows. Now I know why Steve said when it gets stormy they let the dogs sleep in the main part of the house.

And we are trying to fatten up the dogs here in the last week so Steve and Judy do not think that we were starving them on purpose. Actually been trying to increase their food for the last couple of weeks. I think it’s just that rice and omena just does not have enough calories for them. At least it looks like we’ve stopped the bleeding, as we say.

Steve and Judi will be back in town on Friday. We are excited to see them. Wish we were spending more time with them but will only have about a week with them. I thought we had worked it out to have more but with this and that it’s only about a week.

It’s 10:30 am now and the sun is finally out and 80 degrees in the manager’s office. Should be a good day. Not much going on for me however. nothing in fact. I’ll have to make myself look busy all day. Maybe I should work on pictures.

Need to go check the water tank that got busted a couple months ago. The fundi here repaired it a couple weeks ago and the rain last night finally filled it over the crack. Let’s see how much water is coming out.

From CGA,

Paul

Day to Day

2010-10-10T07:08:00.001-07:00

Sunday, Oct 10, 2010 or 10-10-10.

Sunday afternoon and the kids are playing with Joyce. It’s been a lazy day around the Maier home today. Did the watering – that was about it for my duties.

Joyce easily talked me out of attending church today. The AIC church we attend is just not very inspiring – mostly because I don’t understand the songs we sing in Luo and occasionally Swahili. Every so often there is a bit of English in a song, but even then it sometimes takes me a while to recognize that is what it is. And the sermons are very repetitive, going over the same point again and again – often somebody trying to explain a verse in 1000 words or more.

I do wonder about the fact there are many small churches like this one in the area. I’m not sure if these are started by a local group who wants a particular type of church close by or a foreign missionary that zooms through and starts up a particular church and jets off to the next one.

I wonder if the church members would be going to another one of the many churches close by or this is the only church that they want. Or maybe they think this is a good one since at times there are several (4 or 5) whites in attendance, or a good one to at least maybe get something from the whites.

Our church is located on a nice parcel of land. It has the mabati (tin) church itself. If Bethlehem had used the construction methods of this church, we could have had 5 to 6 times more room inside our new building. There is also a house (at least I think it is a house as they talk about the pastor being able to stay in it when he is around) and another building which I have no idea if it belongs to the church or the previous owner of the property. The pastor does serve about 6 congregations I think, so having a place for him to stay when he is here is not a bad idea I guess.

But just last week the chairman (I think that is who he is) of the congregation got up and talked about how nice it would be for the house to have running water and power. What the heck, power and water? Really I’m thinking. I got to be temporary treasurer for this church for abut 6 weeks, of which I only attended about half the Sundays, and the most I saw in offerings was like 400 shillings, about 5 bucks. I hear hooking up power is about 500 bucks. Not quite understanding even why they are thinking about it. Most of the offerings go the the AIC managing organization. Maybe there is a rich parishioner I don’t know about.

I’ll have to quiz Steve some on the origins of this particular congregation and his thoughts on the number of small churches in the area.

Speaking of Steve, him and Judi are in country now. Nairobi. The plan is for them to be driving to Mbita on Thursday. Makes it seem like our time is quickly winding down here.

I had to extend my visa this past week. It required a trip to Kisumu to the immigration office. I was surprised how quickly it went, the man doing it was actually multitasking and moving quickly. But he still had to fill out his own form, even after I had already filled out two myself. They don’t seem too concerned about some of the info you put on the forms. I wasn’t always sure if they were asking for local info or US info, such as for mailing address and residence location. So I used a Kenya PO Box for one and my Beaverton address for the other. Only question I got was from the cashier that asked about the US address. I said it was my home address and I was using the other mailing address in Kenya. She was satisfied and went on completing the payment process. The main man did ask about the address I was actually living at. After trying to explain to him I was staying in a house on the Sindo – Mbita road with no house number I knew of, he asked if he could use the Catholic Parish address I had on the last registration. Sure I said, figuring if anyone every asked about me there, someone might know who I was, but really, it it allowed me to complete the visa extension, I didn’t really care what he put down.

It was nice to spend a little time with Morgan. I hung out with her for part of the couple of days and got to see her in action at the pre-school she manages. I got a chance to take some video and snaps of her in action. We are going to be putting together a promotional video for her. She needs to raise some fund for her time here next year. So get ready to be asked to pony up some dough for her.

Oh and keep your eyes and ears open on jobs for Joyce. One of us really needs to work when we get back – might as well be her.

Byron’s in here disturbing me while I write this – burping in my face. Joyce is close to getting him accepted in CGA for next year. His uncle seems to have all the papers needed – birth, death certificates, etc. Let’s hope they are all legit and the final application gets completed.

The third modem was not the charm. The Orange modem sucks. I can’t get the high speed connection anyplace I’ve tried around the school or the house. I even went to the highest point on the school land and up to the peak of the roof here at the house. Well, maybe this one will be going to Morgan in Kisumu when I leave.

Going to try for number four, but that requires that Steve pick it up for me in Nairobi.

Got some huge avocados on Friday – 4 of them. Each big enough to serve 4. All ripe and ready to be used. All for 60 bob – 75 cents. Total. More quac tonight. Probably will be making chapatti chips as well.

Time to move on.

Reporting from Mbita,

Paul

Modem 3, Test 1

2010-10-05T03:03:00.001-07:00

Sept 5, 2010 – Yep, I finally broke down and bought my third mobile modem here in Kenya. I just had to see if it was better than the other two I have.

This blog posting is my first test, not counting my connecting in the store to make sure it actually worked. It’s about my tenth visit into the store to look at the modem. Haven’t bought in the past because the sales lady inspired less then minimal confidence in me that she knew what the heck was going on. She may know, but just can’t explain it well to a white former geek type. Of course this is giving her a lot of benefit of the doubts. Or is the plural benefits of the doubt?

While one modem is kinda speedy, the signal strength is marginal to bad, so it is often just connected at the slower speed, or a very weak signal.

This modem is the same size as the other ones, but a little sleeker looking. Ruthie, imagine a couple pictures here to keep your attention. I know you are about to quite reading this.

I know Vicki has made it this far. So how are you doing lady? Haven’t heard much from you since your return home. Hope the transition back into life and hectic work is bearable.

And for your duck fans, I got up at 5:30am on Sunday to catch the end of the game. After reading the recap of the first half I’m sorry I didn’t get up at 3:30 to watch the complete game. I wonder if any more of their games will be telecast here before I leave.

So time to post this blog and move on to other testing.

Over and out from Orange Mobile 3G+ network.

Paul

Uninspired Unmotivated

2010-10-04T23:56:00.001-07:00

Sept 5, 2010 – Life just seems to be existing here. I;m not real motivated to do much, although there does not seem like there is much to be done. I guess if I was inspired I could find additional projects to work on.

I have to say that I’m feeling like I’m living in luxury this time as compared to the last time I was here. That’s even with only 2 working faucets in the house, one of those being for the shower that seems to quite working about every 10 days. I’ve figured the easy fix on this. Just disconnect the riser pipe to the teapot shower head at the faucet and let it run for about 3 minutes. This seems to clear whatever obstruction there is in the line. But nothing ever come out, so I’m not sure what is living or growing inside that slowly blocks up the piping.

Only one light in the house, that a somewhat dim solar powered one. So much of the evening is wondering around the house with a torch in hand to avoid bumping into things and to scare the cockroaches away so they are not stepped on.

All our water needs to be boiled. Just to be safe anyway. It is city water and treated, but better safe than barfing and other unpleasant stuff. I must say and thank God that we have been remarkably settled in the stomach digestive sense.

I should say that the water we ingest is boiled. The water that we have to pour into the commode to flush it is usually just recycled bathing water. The poor mans flush toilet, but I’m pretty consistent with being able to do it manually and get a “clean” flush with one try.

having to sleep under a mosquito net is more like an adventure than a burden. But that is only because we have nets that are big enough to easily cover the whole bed and frame. Large enough so that it hangs high enough we can sit up and Joyce could stand if she wanted to. And long enough that it goes all the way to the floor so it does not need to be tucked in anytime we crawl in or out. Even the cat has figured out a way to crawl under the net, push it back away from the bed some and jump up on to the mattress. The mattress doesn’t even seem so bad, of course I have a piece of plywood under my side to keep it from sagging, which causes Joyce’s side to have a nice little valley she gets to sleep in.

But with all the little annoyances, I feel so blessed to have such a comfortable home to live in this time. With water, power, nets, a gas stove and other conveniences we only longed for last time. I’m glad that it happened in this order, the better arrangements this time rather than last time. I don’t think I would have handled it as well this time around, even though last time I was marginal with it at times.

We did run out of gas for the stove / oven last Friday night. This made me cranky. We have two tanks and had already gone through one. We had been told that we should have plenty of gas to last the time here, especially since we refilled one early in our stay. But we didn’t and the problem was that the tanks usually get refilled, or exchanged actually, in Kisumu. This isn’t a great day trip to make, with a car, and not something I would do at all if I had to go public transport.

There is a gas station in town that has cylinders, but I’ve never seen the brand that either of our two. Nothing I could do on Friday night other than wonder how much I would be willing to pay for a new cylinder (I heard they could be $100) to have gas again and avoid a trip to Kisumu or wait for the next trip to Kisumu.

Saturday morning I was grouchy because I could not have a cup of coffee. Now I don’t need the coffee, I can easily survive without it, but the fact i couldn’t have it just was aggravating.

So fairly early morning I decided to walk to town to find out what the situation and cost was going to be in getting the gas they had at the local station. It was clouding and breezy so the 30+ minute walk didn’t add much to my attitude.

I get to the station and look at the cylinders in the cage out front of the building. Two brands, neither of which is either of the brands I have. Great, what are the damages going to be? An attendant, one with fairly good English actually, comes to help. He starts listing other brands that they offer, but he doesn’t recognize the brands I have. But the conversation is a little hard to understand for each of us, so he says just look. He opens a door just by the cage and shows me a room with several dozen tanks or various brands. And I spot two tanks with one of my brands. My day just got a whole lot better. Just need to transport the empty tank from the house and the full tank back. A piki piki ride will do it, but Joe has already offered to drive his vehicle. So after I walk back, in the warming sun, we load the tank and head to the station.

The exchange is quick and painless. Give them the empty tank, and he goes to get a full tank. And he grabs a K-GAS tank, not a OiLibya one like I have. No we say, we need the same brand, yes we know the gas is the same, but it’s not our tank, we need the same. “Same Same” as he puts it. Yes. I pay the 2250 ksh, no receipt, no fuss and only about 400 ksh than it would cost in Kisumu. Definitely worth it.

And to top the trip off we go to the ice plant and pick up some to fill our coolers. I’m in such a great mood that I get two helpings. I only wanted one and a half, but they can’t figure that out and I need to take two even though they scoop it out with a bucket.

I also go a little over board at the local store, buying things to stock the cooler with and a few other snacks. I’m in such a great mood having a full gas cylinder in the car. Turns out I should have gotten more. Not that the selection of items that can be refrigerated is immense. Mostly yogurt and sodas.

Still have ice in the cooler today and a couple more sodas that we bought yesterday and we are having chapatti chips, salsa and guac for dinner. Life was never this good at the parish.

Yet I still have to talk myself into doing much around here.

Signing off,

Paul

Not so much fun – Joyce & Morgan

2010-10-02T09:02:00.001-07:00

So, Morgan and I were having lunch in a small “hotel” in Kisumu after having just returned from our Love Kampala Christian festival. “Hotels” here are what we call restaurants. This place (I can’t remember what it is called) is one of Morgan and Kelsey’s favorite little dives in the center of the city. After lunch, Morgan had just paid the bill as we stepped out into the street and just as she was putting her money away a young man snatched it away from her and ran away. Well, as her mother was horrified to see this happen, Morgan decided to run like a bat-outta-hell after the guy. She was yelling and running so fast as I just stood and yelled after them. There must have been 100 people standing around watching this happen and no one went after her to help her. She ran through a small field and disappeared around some houses – all the while I was saying to the people around us that “no one is helping her”. I lose sight of her and tried not to be worried, but she did “text” me with a few minutes to tell me where to meet her.

After our thief at the boarder incident last year, I was wondering what was going to happen this time. Last time, the thief could have been stoned to death if the police didn’t stop the crazy mob that chased after him. This time, no one joined in Morgan’s race. Thank God that the guy got away and Morgan only came home with scrapes and bruises from falling down in the field…as people were just standing watching her.

A nice “pastorly” type of man did go to find her and walk back with her. We are so disappointed that no one helped her, but he told us that it was probably a gang member who was the thief and just that morning someone was killed right near this area by a gang. The man said that people were fearing for their lives – that’s why they didn’t help. I am glad he told us that because it made it somehow better and understandable. As I was waiting for her to return I did have many concerned people talking to me and shaking their heads and making clicking noises (that is a common noise that Luos make when they don’t like something). We were also glad that a mob did not form…. That man was lucky!

When we returned to Morgan’s apartment and told her roommates what happened, I said that maybe things have to happen like this to remind them that they need to be careful – all the time. Ginger, one of her roommates, has lived in Nairobi most of her time in Kenya and her response was “Oh, I have had so many things stolen from me…I even had a policeman steal my camera from me and deny that I just watched him do it”. I asked Morgan NOT to run after anyone again….for her mother’s sake if nothing else!

Unfortunately, Morgan and I had just returned from this great weekend at the Palau Festival and this brought us down. Morgan said that she was glad it happened to her and not someone who couldn’t take it…just like her to say something like that. One of our orphan overseers and CGA said “the ENEMY is angry after all the good that was done in Kampala”. Good words to remind us that we are always being tested in this life. In Kenya more than at home….

Andrew Palau Festival – Kampala, Uganda

2010-10-02T08:35:00.001-07:00

Morgan and I spent 5 (luxurious) nights in Kampala at a hotel that we were instantly uncomfortable with when we arrived, because what we are used to in Kenya, but it took about two minutes to get comfortable...especially when we saw that our room had a hot shower and a bath tub!!! Unheard of! Morgan actually took a shower and a bath the first night!

I had met a great young woman named Kristi at the Luis Palau office last February, in Beaverton, when we presented our Feed My Starving Children event to Kevin Palau. They were very helpful with advertising our event to the people around Portland. Kristi and I were instantly excited to talk about the possibility of me getting involved in their Love Kampala festival in Uganda in September, since I was going to be in Kenya anyway…even though I did not know it when we first talked together. I thought that I could be helpful to her since I had been around the block here in Kenya. So, Morgan and I went to work behind the scenes at the festival that happened in Uganda last weekend - and it was great…and frustrating all at the same time.

The Love Kampala Festival consisted of one FREE weekend of spreading the word about Jesus…and everyone was invited around the city. They had a kids area, a BMX/motorcycle/skateboard exhibition, food (local vendors that were selling stuff), some local arts and crafts. And a 4-5 hour stage show with Christian musicians (Nicole C. Mullins, Papa San and the Solid Rock worship team from Beaverton!). The African Children’ Choir was there too! Andrew Palau (Luis’s son) did a “call to Jesus” evangelistic invitation to people who came to know Jesus that night…pretty powerful stuff.

No matter how much you plan…we, as Americans anyway…nothing ever goes as you think it will in these crazy countries of Kenya and Uganda. Kristi had about 170 people to take care of and transport(musicians, pastors, event planners, etc) with about 20 drivers that were hired for the week. Unfortunately, the drivers did not understand Kristi over the phone…even though they all speak English. Morgan instantly became Kristi’s right-hand-man because after living here for so long you learn how to say things properly…rolling your r’s, different voice inflections, leaving certain words out of sentences, or phrasing differently…i.e. “help me with that pen” rather than “ can I please use your pen”. You would think that if you know English that it would not be so hard, but it is! Paul and I have gotten used to talking in a similar fashion, but Morgan is so good.

All kinds of crazy things happened, or didn’t happen, for the festival. The caterer that Kristi hired to bring meals and water to the “hospitality tent” just decided not to show up. Hired busses only made one trip to bring people in (they were supposed to come and go most of the day). The van drivers would or would not show up…whatever they felt like. The BMX guys only had minimal supplies to make their ramps and dirt hills. They were impressive anyway. That is only to name a few things.

Kristi’s mom, Doreen traveled with Kristi so we hung around together and were assigned to the “Kids Station” of the festival. That is a whole other story! I thought that I would be Kristi’s assistant, but it was so awesome that she and Morgan got on so well. Kristi is a single gal who is a few years older than Morgan, so it worked out great. At the end of the festival Morgan told Kristi that she, Kristi,had about a year and a half to have a good job so that Morgan can come home and be her assistant. They have plans for Morgan to go to Burundi (another East African country) next August, where another African Andrew Palau’s festival will be held, so they can work together again. Who knows….it might work! Last year they held a festival in Kigali, Rwanda (the main Rawandan genocide city…you know, the movie “Hotel Rwanda”). I guess it was a much easier place to make things happen…go figure?!

Anyway, Morgan and I had a great time together and I am so glad we made the trip. It took about 7 hours by bus to get there and I thought we would die on the way home. We traveled in the evening back to Kisumu and made the mistake of sitting right behind the driver. He was a mad man behind the wheel. We really are lucky to be alive! I was singing Christian songs the whole way home and praying to God for our safety. We stopped along the road once so people could buy food from the people along the road (roasted maize, chicken, goat) and Morgan had to pee so badly that she hopped off of the bus and ran across the street, the dark street. Mid-squat, she almost fell down the hill that she didn’t know was there. Glad I wasn’t watching because she came back and told me that she fell about 6 feet before she stopped herself. At least she felt better when she was finished!

We were back in Kisumu about 1:00 am and had to take a tuk-tuk back to Morgan’s apartment (that is a three-wheeled golf cart type of vehicle,,,kinda fun, but not too fast). The guard at the bus station made us stand inside the gate because if we stool outside while we waited for the tuk-tuk, we might be killed. I figured that it wasn’t any different than the bus ride home…Thanks to God for getting us home safely.

I spent part of the next day with Morgan before having to get to the 6:00 ferry back to Mbita. I had to stand up on the (last) bus to the ferry for almost 2 hours in a sardine can fashion. At least I was almost at the front of the bus and only had people squished up against me from the back-side…I stood in between two seats and hung on for dear life. Once, I had to tell the guy behind me that if he kept pushing on my legs that I would fall over and his response was “Oh, I was only bending down to hide from the police”. NICE! I heard some guys behind me tell me to “get down” when we were stopping for a police inspection, but I figured that it was not my fault if the bus was too full, so I pretended not the hear them. The police didn’t care about anything… I did have two cute babies in front of me to watch and their big entertainment, besides sleeping, was poking their little fingers at the chicken whose head was sticking out of the plastic bag on their mama’s lap. It was a sweat box in the bus, but the baby-mamas kept putting more clothes on the kids. A long sleeve shirt over the t-shirt, a sweater and then a knit hat. Can’t ever be too warm here!

That is a typical day/scene of my life in Kenya…hope you enjoyed

Da da da da da da da – (by Joyce) You will understand the title after you read this

2010-10-01T23:13:00.001-07:00

I traveled to Kisumu to pick Morgan (they don’t say picked up here) on our way to Uganda, but before we left I went to her nursery school. I got to see the dress rehearsal of some of the kids doing the “chicken dance” in the costumes that Morgan made for them…so adorable! The kids were in a competition of some sort and they were practicing that day. Morgan made cute little chicken beaks and wings for the kids (of course, she did). You can bet that there was no other costume quite like that at the competition. They actually took 7th place overall and 3rd for creative dance. The teachers had the chicken dance recorded and also the tune “Do you know the Muffin Man?”. They did a version of the Macarena to the Muffin Man song…also adorable especially in chicken costumes. I think the kids would have stood in their double line, in their costumes, and dances all day if the teachers kept the music going. Every time the music was turned on the kids went about their dancin’ business. Morgan has videotaped this so you will be able to see for yourselves in December…when she comes home!!! although temporarily. I would post photos, but they are on Morgan’s camera. The wait will be worth it when you see the video!

Ants in my Pants

2010-09-29T01:52:00.001-07:00

Sept 29, 2010 – Joyce has oft commented that if she finds a ant crawling on her, that she feels that they are crawling all over her. Phantom ants. She said this morning that she even felt that way as she plucked one of the little crawlers off me.

I know the feeling she’s talking about. I feel the phantom ants too.

Really bad this morning.

I had some clothes washed on Monday. Forgot to retrieve from the clothesline until this morning. I should say that we do get ants on our drying clothes most of the time. We try to shake them out when we put them away, but that is not always successful. It seems they disappear soon if you just put the clothes away. At least I haven’t noticed any ants on clothes I pull off the hanger or out of the drawer.

So this morning (Wednesday) I go to retrieve the clothes so I can wear some of them. And of course there are a few ants i spot. I shake and pick off the ones I see as I take the clothes down. I take the clothes in and lay them down for a while, just to see of any more ants appear. A few do and I go over the clothes I want to wear, inside and out, picking and crushing the ants I find. Got them I think.

Well, got the ones I saw. I started finding more within minutes. Picking and crushing. Joyce and I both got a number as we walked up to CGA and sat in the bible study. That’s when you comment about feeling them even though they were on me.

But I was feeling them crawling on my skin two. But when I looked I saw only phantom ants. Yeah of course.

Well not really all phantom ants. I under my shirt to scratch another phantom and came up with a live one that I promptly crushed. Guess I didn’t get them all out of my clothes and I’m not imagining the ants crawling around on me, at least not totally.

Just hoping that it is phantom ants I’m feeling crawling under my baseball cap.

Signing out,

Paul

The Hexagon has Started

2010-09-27T23:29:00.001-07:00

Sept 28, 2010 – The six school Hexagon exam has started today. It’s a 2 – 1/2 day exam taken by 6 schools in the area. Sort of a competition to see which of the schools can do the best and give the kids practice for real exams.

This started a few years ago, when 6 of the better schools in the area got together to have such a competition to be able to evaluate themselves against the better schools in the area. CGA use to rule supreme I heard, but now they are sliding to 2nd or 3rd. Part of that relates to the fact that CAG doesn’t have as much school time as the others. Most the schools in the area have required prep time – a couple hours, even up to 3 or 4, in the evening, Sat and / or Sun too. CGA has an hour after school and 2 or so hours on Sat. Hard to compete when they other kids get so much more time with teachers and being able to focus on studying.

Then later in the term the schools come together to announce the results, with ranks by school and by student, both overall and by subject. Prizes are given to the best students, such as 1 piece of candy or maybe a pencil if you did really really well.

I got the experience the Hexagon release for last term shortly after we arrived. CGA was hosting and it’s an all day deal, even with a special meal, for the teacher only. We don’t even feed the kids from the other schools. Suppose to only be about a half day deal, but everyone needs to get up and say encouraging words, go into lengthy explanations of topics concerning, or marginally related, to the exam.

I was fortunate in that I work at this place, so I could get up an leave for extended periods of time so my mind wouldn’t go numb. Poor students. Four or Five hundred students - three grade from 6 schools – who had to be crammed into the dining hall for several hours. With no food. With no water. And boring speeches.

Got reprimanded the other day for opening other peoples mail. I figure I’m the manage of the school and if mail arrives and nobody knows who the addressee is that I’m allowed to open it. Even if it is marked personal and confidential. That’s a no-no. Got about 20 minutes from a local who volunteers here. It raises suspicion on you. Why are you opening others mail. People don’t like that. Hey. they sent it to the school I’m managing and I don’t know who they are, nobody knows who they are, and they didn’t tell us it was coming. I can open it if I want. No so, at least in the socially correct spectrum. We should just keep it around for a while and see if anyone shows up for it. I guess people just use the PO Box of the nearest school since they don’t have their own. Not such thing as to the door step mail delivery here. Probably do to no street numbers, or street names, or streets even where some of them live.

After keeping it around for a while, we should just return to the Posta. They will just tack it to the wall for awhile to see if anyone comes by for it. Eventually it’ll be returned to sender.

That local volunteer just got some mail here at school. Maybe I’ll open it just for funzies, see how long I get lectured the second time around.

Joyce isn’t back from Uganda yet. I guess they were having to much fun (and nice showers) and extended the stay a couple of times. She should be back before dark tonight. I have talked to her briefly. Seems that she and Morgan had a great time and very glad they went. Morgan got to play interpreter even. I guess the locals had a hard time understand the coordinator from the US so Morgan stepped in to help. Translating from English to English. That is US English to East African accented English.

Time to go see if the ugi is ready, didn’t have breakfast this morning. But yesterday I had a great breakfast – toasted toast with Blueband, some pretty good scrambled eggs piled on top and topped with salsa. Might have to try that again.

Paul, from Mbita.

PS – don’t forget about the picture pages – just posted a toddler with a machete.

Another Saturday Morning

2010-09-25T03:23:00.001-07:00

Sept 25, 2010 – Another quiet Saturday morning in Mbita, at least for me. I’m sitting at the dining room table, looking into the front yard where the sun is shining bright, with chips, salsa and a cold drink. And music playing in the background.

Yes a cold drink that wasn’t purchased at a duka (store). I had George go the Victoria water and ice plant and pick up a bag of ice on Wed morning. Sometime over night the last of the ice melted, so I have to take advantage of the few items I had in it. Might have to have 2 beers for lunch.

The ice was my splurge while Joyce is gone to Uganda with Morgan. They are helping with the Andrew Palau festival that is happening there. Hopefully she’ll report on it when she gets back. I have heard that 1) The hotel room seemed like overkill when they got there, but they got use to it quickly. and 2) Morgan took both a shower and a bath the first day – with hot water. made all the more luxurious by the fact it’s water pitcher baths back at her place.

The chips are made from chapattis. The good ones that just had the prices raised. (Oh may, just saw a beautiful little bird – mostly black with a brilliant red chest, shimmering head and long, narrow curved beak – trying to feed on a flower just by the window.) I tried some other chapatti from someone down by the junction, but they were thick and greasy and didn’t make good chips. They were only 10 bob, but I’ll pony up the extra 5 bob to get the good one.

The salsa was made fresh by me last night for dinner (with guac) so it’s even better today since its sat and the flavors have mingled for a while. yummy.

The cold drink is water was some Quencher in it. That’s a concentrated drink flavoring (mine is lemon cordial). Sort of like that fruit punch stuff churches are famous for.

The music is from Joyce’s ipod. It’ old and doesn’t hold a charge for more than part of an hour. So no sense her taking it with her. Only useful when used in the speaker docking station. Maybe time for a new one.

I had all my Sat chores done by 9 this morning. This consisted of doing the few dished I didn’t do last night and watering the garden. Exhausted. Oh yeah, fed the dogs too.

Also spent an hour over at Joe’s place while a newly certificated (maybe it was diplomaed) guy tried to figure out what was wrong with his solar lighting. Mostly, the crap he bought off the streets of Kisumu. He’s headed to town now to by some good stuff to replace the bad stuff. He wants England made fixtures, not China, and Philips blubs. Joe’s holding training for his Suba Lakers football club so I got to monitor the repairs and front the money to go get the new items.

Just decided that there is no way I could drink 2 beers for lunch so I cracked one up now. Hey, it is after 11 am and it’s already over 80 degrees outside. Sure glad it is only spring here, otherwise who knows how hot it would be. I’ve had more beer in the last 3 days as the rest of the time here. Looking forward to a good northwest microbrew.

Not much rain here for a while. An occasional thunder storm, but not often or long enough. It just struck me a day or two ago that there is no fall colors here. The trees don’t get fall foliage or colors. But here in the dry season some trees are shedding leaves. Some turn brown before they drop off, most just seem to dry up, shrivel a bit and fall to earth. Not very impressive. going to miss driving down those Beaverton tree lined streets and seeing the God inspired array of fall color awesomeness.

Zain, one of the 4 cell companies here in Kenya, the one that was formerly Celtel and recently purchased by an Indian firm, announced yesterday that rates to call the US have been dropped to 3 ksh (<4 cents) a minute. I should call my dad to check, lets see it’s only 2 am at home. He’ll be awake.

Thinking of buying a 3rd broadband cell modem to test it out. I already have Zain (cheaper) and Safaricom (faster, but weak signal where I use it). But Orange is supposedly in the area. They just announced a price reduction in their rates and suppose to be as fast as Safaricom. But it’s risky if it doesn’t work, probably can’t return it. And their internet works on a different system then their primary cell phones so I can’t test to see how strong the signal is around this area. They do have cell phones that work on the same system as the modems, I wonder if they sell lines for that? And if one of the phones around here or schools can handle it? Dilemma, dilemma.

Well Joe has invited me over for pasta for lunch, so think I’ll go. Save the second beer for later – maybe with popcorn and a movie.

Paul

The Price of Chapatti Just Went Up

2010-09-21T05:45:00.001-07:00

Sept 21, 2010 – While we could make our own chapatti (read Kenyan tortilla) they would not come out as nicely as the ones we buy. Nor would it be as easy and convenient.

At 10 ksh (12.5 cents at the current exchange rate) each it was a good deal we thought. Even if they were a little over-priced, it was still worth doing for us. If we were staying forever, maybe we’d practice and perfect the making of them. But even not maybe then, as even Judi still buys them, and she has been here going on 14 years.

But yesterday when I went to place my order I was informed that the price was going up. The price of flour had risen, so the final product needed to go up in price as well. Being a former accountant, this made perfect sense to we. After all, how much could flour have gone up? So what, a 1 or 2 shilling increase – I could take that, it would be inconsequential. But no! The price was going up 50%! to 15 ksh each. What, no way flour had gone up that much. Bread had gone up also, but only like 5%, a couple of ksh a loaf.

I balked a little, did some quick math calcs in my head and decided that since the usual 10 we order is more than we need, I’d stick to the total we use to pay, 100 ksh, and just order 7 and ask for a 5 ksh discount, making it still 100 ksh.

Jacquelyn, the chapatti lady, would have none of that. She said this time, since I did not know, that I could still have 10 for 100. How nice. But, now that I know, I can ‘just arrange’. Yeap, that’s the phrase, ‘just arrange’, meaning I can now plan for it and still order 10, but pay the 150 ksh next time. She doesn’t seem to want any of that 7 stuff and still only pay 100. I’ll need to be coughing up an extra 50 ksh in the future.

I can see not wanting to got though the effort of making just 7 chapatti. It’s not like Jeremiah the mandazi king who makes hundreds at a time. Chapatti are made to order and I don’t know if anyone but us orders them.

But I’ve already decided to give in and keep my orders at 10 chapatti and pay the extra 50 ksh. I figure, we are only here for a little while longer, she was nice enough not to raise the price this time (good business move), and it is only 65 cents. At least she is not asking for just a free handout.

How to a new subject … If I was to come back for an extended period (which I’m not in anyway planning on doing) what would I’d like …

First, I’d like to know how to weld, both electric and gas. I think this would be a useful skill here.

I’d like to know small engine repair – maybe up to about 125, 150cc, mainly motorcycle or generator type engines. Maybe the basics of automobile engines as well.

I’d like to know Luo, the mother tongue in these parts, at at least a 5 or 6 year old level, maybe 4. And just to understand would be okay, but to speak would help also.

I’d like to know some more about electricity, particularly in relation to solar power setups. The watts, loads, amps, how do you know how charged a battery is, what is a gel battery might come in handy, and maybe give me some skills I could use to make myself useful to others and gain some favors or money.

Anyone know a good 12 volt refrigerator or cooler? And not too spendy? And do the cheap cooler types really do any good? Or maybe how much gas does like an RV gas frig really use?

I keep debating if I’d get a motorbike if I was over here long term. I can see the benefits, but also the dangers, which are more than the US with the driving habits over here. The bikes here are mostly 100 or 125 cc, or something ridiculously small, when you think they’ll carry 3 adults and a couple kids on one. Of course then, I’d need some lessons in how to ride one. Last time was high-school I think, and that was just a friend’s brother’s. (Did I get that punctuation right?

battery is about gone so,

bye for now

Paul

A Little Bit of This

2010-09-20T05:53:00.001-07:00

Sept 20, 2010 – I only have 45 minutes before the staff meeting here at CGA so this will have to be a short one. This may be my first staff meeting while we have been here, I can’t remember going to any before. Probably do not need to be at this one, but I’m a little curious on how they go. It also shows dedication to the job I have here at the school, even though that a lot of it is just for looks.

Another first is getting a banker’s check. I think it is even a first in my life and it was done here in Kenya. Not hard actually. Fill out the form that has about 6 items to fill in, stand in line, give cashier money and form, sign your name a couple times, then wait for the check. Over all, about 10 minutes this time.

Banker’s cheques are big things here – used a lot. CGA uses them when giving money for fees, etc that require us to give the money to someone to take to a business, such as a school. Don’t trust the people with the cash, too easy and likely to use it for something else. Also a lot of places don’t seem to take personal checks, but like these. Guess they haven’t had the forgeries so common in the US.

I’ve seen a couple of request for school fee form. These are sent to the parents/guardians when a child is set away from school for lack of payment. It indicates how much the child owes. A couple of these noted that “Letter / promises are not accepted”. I guess I should not be accepting any of these either.

Ouch. OUCH!

The first ouch was from a king size bee, for lack of better description. Probably something else as it burrows into wood, making a hole about a round as a fat kindergarten crayon. These things are about as big as end segment of your thumb. It was in a long pole I picked up to try and knock a lemon out of our lemon tree. It was dark and I didn’t notice it until it bite (may a sting, I really don’t know). Ouch. Didn’t get any lemons that night. It stung for a little while, didn’t swell up at all, and only itched a little for the next couple of days.

The second was from a scorpion. I’d like to say it was 6 inches long, but probably only 3 to 4. It was hiding in my towel. After I bathed I grabbed my towel off it’s peg and zap – OUCH – stung by a scorpion. I think it’s kind of macho that I live to tell about it. My notion has been that scorpions are nasty creatures and if you get stung you are in big trouble. Well you are if you are a small animal, a human baby or a frail old fart. While I’m close to one of those, I don’t fall under any of those categories.

But it does put some venom into you. I got stuck just above the knuckle on my index finger. It swelled up quickly, but not blotted, skin is going to pop swelling. But the cool part is the tingling sensation that comes and slowly creeps out from the sting. My extended to the tip of the finger, down past the knuckle, over into the next finger and another knuckle over. All this over night. Feels like when you have a body part go to sleep and it starts waking up. It started going away after about 20 hours and gone completely by 36 hours.

I think it’s kinda neat to say I’ve been strung by a scorpion.

Well, just a few minutes to go before the meeting, so I better stop and try to fire up the internet connection. I don’t want to be late, even though the meeting will probably start 15 minutes late.

From Mbita,

Paul

Hello

2010-09-17T00:57:00.001-07:00

Sept 17, 2010 – Vicki is off, making her way back to the US. It seems hard to believe that we greeted her 2 weeks ago today. Time flew by, but we packed it with a lot of items.

I’ve posted some of her pictures in our album, check them out at http://picasaweb.google.com/MaiersInAfrica

Vicki’s picture album tells a pretty good story of her time here. But like she said, pictures do not capture everything.

For those of you who don’t check the pictures regularly, I’ve posted a number of them in the last couple weeks. Soon I’ll be working on the ones fm Joyce’s camera and the safari. We got it back yesterday during a one day visit to Kisumu.

The instigating reason for the trip was that Vicki needed to get to Kisumu to catch her morning flight to Nairobi. Joe had a few things to get done so he drove and a few other came along to accomplish a few tasks. Any time Joe goes to Kisumu people find out and always have a few other items for you to do or want to come along.

Yesterday we had a treat, or multiple treats. Café Latte that was delic, great ice cream, and wonderful tacos, with cheese and real taco shells! Thanks to Joe for the tacos? The little cheese that was left Joyce was saving for her morning toast, but Brinkley (cat) found it during the middle of the night an polished it off. That’s the biggest waste of any food we’ve had so far.

Tonight is pizza cooked in a brick oven.

Here are some road stories. On our way to the Masai Mara we passed a matatu with everyone just standing outside it. As we passed I found out why – broken down and in the process of being repaired. Not surprising with how bad the roads were washboarded. Soon we came upon another in the same situation and I thought I’m going to count these to see how many broken down transports we pass. But this one was not broken down – a lady had gone into labor and had just delivered her baby on the side of the road. Someone was helping clean her up while another was holding the baby wrapped in a konga.

Also saw the immediate aftermath of a dog getting hit on the road. It was the truck (semi type) ahead of us. First I noticed the kids gasping and scattering on the side of the road, then the blooded dog still spinning from the impact with bits of flesh and blood flying around. Then, shortly, an overturned semi with it’s container exploded into pieces. I think this was also fairly recent as a lot of the cargo was still sitting where the truck landed in the ditch.

I think that we have little planned for the weekend – yeah. Maybe we can sleep past 7 tomorrow morning. Of course it would be easier if we don’t go to bed before 10 tonight.

Reported from Mbita,

Paul

To Much Internet Time

2010-09-15T03:55:00.001-07:00

Sept 15, 2010 – Steve and Judi should be back in Mbita a 4 weeks from today. That means we are on the downside of our stay here. Once they are back, we’ll have a couple of weeks with them here and then head home towards the end of October.

Seems kind of strange to be talking about the timing of returning home. A while ago I thought it would never come.

We have much to easy access to the internet this time around. Last time we always had to go someplace to connect. This time with having the mobile internet available it’s just to easy and we are keeping our addiction up. I do okay if I check my mail once a day, even though I only get maybe 5 e-mails a week that matter at this point (my kids never write me). I’ll also browse the Google news headlines – Kenya style is I have time. I’ll have to write on that one sometime. Interesting to see what makes it on, particularly in the world news.

I’ll also pirate my wife’s facebook account to see what’s up. I definitely feel less isolated reading snippets from people back home. But I can see why I gave up my account months ago. Lucky to to have 3 or 4 items that are worth the time they take to read. Another half dozen that are interesting, but not worth the time (at least at my reading pace), and most of them I stop reading after about 4 words. But still, there is something comforting in it and I take a look every day or two.

I think Joyce is worse than I am. She’s much more comfortable being on twice a day, however lately she’s only averaging once a day. I must admit that she has more going on and get’s more worthwhile e-mail than I do. She spends more time on the facebook, but it’s the same stuff I look at and I don’t see what she spends so much time on with it. It is fun however to have that instant chat thing, if it is the right person. Since our days here are out of whack with back home, usually not to many hits on anyone I care to say hey to.

There was something refreshing last time in getting removed from the internet and instant access to the world. It took a while, but after a couple of months, I no longer really cared if I made it once a week to an internet enabled place or not. I think most people could benefit from getting disconnected for an extended period (I’m talking weeks or months here, not minutes or hours). I think it lets you control time rather than time control you.

Need to fire up the mobile modem to post this now, so over the internet from Mbita,

Paul

Technology Too

2010-09-15T00:58:00.001-07:00

Sept 13, 2010 – This blog is dedicated to the person who had the following request in an e-mail.

“If you have a moment, please snap some photos of local kids using technology and send them our way. Always good to see what life is like on the other side of the world. :-)”

After I had a good laugh, I read this request to Joyce and she had a good laugh also.

But it got me thinking more about the contrasts in the two sides of the world (and I’m actually in the southern hemisphere, so it really is the other side of the world.)

Oh, can’t forget the shout-out to my sponsor – The Mbita Cybercafe. Visit them just off the stage for a variety of services. Including Student ID cards.

When I first saw the request I was thinking of the Americanized definition of technology – that which has a circuit board and uses power. No, I’m sure the person wanted me to think out of the box on this. to get myself out of that US mind set. There have been technical advancements since the creation of man and the fashioning of the first fig leaf cover-up. So I’ve moved out of the box and into a fuzzy circle looking both at technology and areas where this side of the world has a hand up on the other side of the world.

I’ll start with the technology that I brought from home. The type of items Americans think of as ‘technology’.

This is all being powered or recharged with this system – our solar power system. Here are the batteries, inverter and the control unit. These are hooked up to the panels on the roof.

Here are the panels collecting the power of Mr Sol. Ignore the dead plant life which is courtesy of Mr Hammerhead, the bird that was trying to build his nest on my precious power provider. It’s not nice messing with an electricity dependent man and his watts.

Enough about me. This is about life and technology here on the barely south side of the equator. (I can hear my mother-in-law saying sarcastically “great, another technology blog”)

We’ll start with some real US technology. Here a couple of the boys that come over occasionally use our 2005 era cell phone to talk with our daughter. This is pretty unusual for kids here to use a cell phone. Their parents have one, but rarely here in Mbita do you see anyone in high school or below having a cell phone.

Here’s a couple of the kids looking at pictures and videos I took. Couldn’t get the little one to leave. This is a big deal to actually see the pictures that have been taken of you if you are a child in Mbita. I don’t think I’ve seen a kid, and very few adults, in Mbita with a camera of any kind.

Setting up the 10.1 inch screen (measured diagonally) for movie day at the Maier house.

Again, all this is due to what we brought along. So to move on to technology found completely locally.

Here’s the music being piped into the local bicycle repair shop.

Here’s a tower of antennas. This is actual Kisumu, not Mbita, but it shows that technology isn’t that far away. Just kidding, it is quite a ways away if you consider the time it takes to get to Kisumu from here.

This is Kisumu too. But shows the in-roads that Kenya is making into the cyberworld.

Now no move completely out of the box…

Here we see the My-Pad first generation being used in the school setting. Still used in many schools today. Nicknamed “chalkboard” they are easily used to express words, numbers and pictures. Generation 1.5 featured colored styluses, allowing even more creativity of expression.

Here we see generation 2.0 of the My-Pad. These are in limited use here, many only in the homes of the more affluent families. These do have some limitations, such as no color version yet and too easy to accidently erase you thought in midstream.

Here’s a close-up of this gem in action.

More items related to education:

The built in (or more accurately painted on) chalkboard.

Here we have a multimedia presentation going – two people up in front at once.

Here we have a couple students using the latest in writing hardware – the ball-point pen. Available at CGA in both blue and RED!

And here we see the re-use of spaces. This former chicken house is now a classroom (and lumber storage area).

Moving on looking at comparisons to the US and how Kenya is more progressive or environmentally minded or in tune with nature or something like that. In no particular order…

They are much more open to alternative forms or styles of medicine.

Much more into mixed land use in their urban designs. Here we have a major mall just next to the local rubbish burning city garbage dump.

Here we have a very effective lake fly catcher and preserver. That is not ash – the black are are lake flies. This is just on nights bounty.

Here we have a very environmentally non-polluting way of making smaller rocks out of bigger rocks – one blow at a time.

Here is the skyscraper of Mbita towering 4 stories high. Note the modern rounded glass windows on the one corner.

Here is the local ponga (machete) sharpener. Notice how he combines his exercise regiment with the grinding wheel attached to the rear wheel of his bike.

And speaking of multitasking. Look at this 4 year old caring for her little sister while she gathers wood.

Here we have the super low water volume toilet. And you never need to double flush.

You do see a few solar cookers around. Unfortunately they are not used much, and not always efficient. The locals seem very picky about their use – no wind or clouds can be present or they say it does not work. But this is aniother story.

They are making good use of local resources, in this case the lake.

Here the local ice plant is delivering drinking water. “Drink Victoria Feel Fresh” is the motto. Sounds great until you look at the lake.

This nice green water doesn’t look very fresh to me.

Here we see an advancement in wheel chairs I’ve not noticed in the US. Chairs for the handicap that can handle the rough terrain.

Nice open air markets can be found on most street corners.

Here we see a boy standing in front of a home that displays the low carbon impact building design so popular here in Mbita. A few poles of local timber, some mud and dung and you have a home. And if needed, it is easily recycles back into earth friendly material.

Here is a solar and wind power clothes dryer. These are so great that I’ve never seen an electric one here in town.

People here are furniture snobs. Almost all insist on hand crafted furniture from one of the many roadside craftmen. Very few people opt for the mass produced stuff.

Of course this furniture is available with same day delivery by the highly economical 2 wheel transport vehicle.

This is the land of free ranging meat. Not the pinned up corralled cows of the US.

And poultry is always fresh, not frozen and driven thousands of miles. That is not a handbag the lady is carrying.

Kids toys seemed to have advanced past the US. Here we see kid powers tops. Look at the look of achievement on the child having gotten two going at once. Never have to worry that the batteries are dead.

Here kids are using both colored wax sticks and color blocks to create some beautiful items.

Here we have a child showing me his “playmate” he found just out the door. Mr Grasshopper was quite entertaining and this child handled him this the delicacy he deserved.

Here we see that dexterity that is developed early being demonstrated by using just a piece of a double edge razor blade. I don’t see many kids back home that can do this.

Here is a remote controlled car. Granted it is not a wireless remote, but still this takes great skill to create and greater skill to maneuver over the rocky dirt roads.

Here is the beginners version of the remote controlled car – the plastic bottle on a stick.

Here is another great outdoor toy. The tire directed by a stick. I know it’s hard to tell, but these are not just bias ply tires, but steel belted radials.

And I’ll end with the innovation personal protection cocoons that repel all sorts of irritating and deadly items. These are so highly effective. It’s a shame that more people here do not have access to, or maybe can’t afford, this wonderful device that prevents illness.

Signing off from the technology innovating capitol of Kenya – Mbita,

Paul

Saturday Morning

2010-09-10T22:25:00.001-07:00

Sept 11, 2010 – Saturday morning and not much going on yet. Had breakfast – instant coffee with sugar and drinking chocolate and a mandazi and a half. Oh yeah, a couple of sweet bananas – the little ones which are much tastier than the big ones.

Vicki is still here. Her and Joyce are out on the veranda going through all the items that Vicki brought. Trying to determine what should go to which school. Trying to figure who will get the most use from them and not just let the items sit around.

Joyce and Vicki went around town yesterday. Vicki tried her hand at banana bark(?) weaving with Margaret, saw a number of people and saw where some of our kids live.

Had a scare the other night. Wanted to look at pictures from the safari Joyce had taken on her nice camera – couldn’t find the camera! Looked all over. Started going over in our mind everything that came out of the vehicle – nobody remembered the camera coming out, or carrying it down to the house. Panic – camera is replaceable, but the pictures of the wildebeest migration – priceless. Joyce finally called the driver and he said “so glad you called, I have your camera, but not your number”. Relief. He dropped it off to Morgan in Kisumu yesterday. But still a while before we get to see them.

later today will get busier. Need to go to town to show Vicki, the kids are coming later, and I hear that we are invited to a birthday party for a couple of twin 2 year olds.

First week of school is over – only 3 days with kids and only 2 days for us, since we were traveling. Not to many requests for money. And I was a little surprised how many people actually paid the school fees owed. Only a couple to go.

Saw Lillian, the school’s social worker, riding a motor bike this week. I picture would not do it justice. It would not show the speed (slow) nor the unsteadiness. She is still very tentative, but at least trying. This is good since a church from Washington donated money for one for her. She needs to visit homes and this will help a lot in getting her around much quicker.

Heard that the people we are subbing for, Steve and Judi, had a good experience in Portland. They were well received at Bethlehem and my mom-in-law was a terrific hostess.

Got a couple things to do, so signing off.

From Mbita,

Paul

Misc

2010-09-09T01:37:00.001-07:00

9/9/2010 – I can actually use the slash method for the date today as the day and month is the same and I don’t have to worry about getting them in the wrong order.

We’ve been gone for 6 days on a couple of adventures.

Back to school today with the students back. Opening day of term III was yesterday (which we missed). I had about 15 students who still owed fees when I left. Down to 4 today. This includes a load of ballast (gravel) for 2 of them and grain grinding for another. Only one can’t seem to understand my explanation notes on how much they owe. And they won’t come themselves to let me explain.

Vicki B arrived at the Kisumu airport Friday, Sept 3rd – her 58th birthday!!! Morgan was waiting for her with roses – how sweet. Joyce and I arrived a couple hours later. We had a great time showing Vicki around Kisumu for a couple days. We then went on a 2 night safari.

The safari was great! Went to the Masai Mara for 2 nights. We saw the wildebeest migration over the Mara River – the jumping, swimming, tumbling down banks, crocodile waiting for the opportunity and the successful attacks. Lions, leopards and cheetahs. Elephants, giraffes and hippos. Pictures to come.

Our safari vehicle went through both spare tires and our driver was concerned we have another flat. But we made it home – hope the driver did also.

Other places on our journey were lushy green. Mbita is still brown. Heard we have not had rain since the couple times 3 weeks ago.

Tonight is chapatti chips with guacamole and salsa. Yum, yum, yum.

Last night the discussion included what the Slurppee straw is used for when they ask you for a stool sample. Three different thoughts from the 4 of us.

The solar power is having problems at school. The inverter just turns off without warning. Save your work, save your work, and save it again.

Having a good time with Vicki so far. It’s fun being the “experts” and show a new comer the ropes. We even had a great sunset to show her last night along with plenty of lights from the fishing boats (something pictures just wouldn’t do justice too) and amazing stars.

Have I mention I think it would be great to have a camer-aroma? Sometime the sight just isn’t the same without the smell.

I’m excited to look at all the pictures we have taken from the last few days – including the ones with Vicki and the sa-FAR-iii!.

I think I’ll go look at my pictures now. It’s the only camera I have with me here at school.

Paul

Kenyan Census

2010-09-02T05:43:00.001-07:00

Sept 2 2010 – Kenya recently complete a comprehensive census and released the results this week. The last one was in 1999, so just 10 years ago.

Since 1999 Kenya has grown from 29 million to 39 million in 2009. 10 mill new people. So a 1/3 growth in 11 years. That’s on top of the same growth the 10 years before that (21.5 mill in 1989 to 29 mill in 1999). That’s a 77% increase for the period 1989 to 2009. The US had a 23% increase over that same period. That’s a lot of people to be adding to a poverty heavy country. Hard to keep up social reform, infrastructure additions, hunger reduction, etc at this pace of adding people.

6 mil of these are 5 years old or under.

I can see why there is still so much poverty even with all the aid money coming in (even considering the corruption factor) This lends some credibility to the thought that the more you make available (such as food and water) the more people there will be and the percent of poverty / hunger will remain the same if nothing else is changed.

This article is interesting on the growth impact:

http://www.businessdailyafrica.com/Company%20Industry/High%20birth%20rate%20dims%20Kenyas%20long%20term%20growth%20prospects/-/539550/1000782/-/item/0/-/q2l0nl/-/index.html

Just my views from this side trying to understand why so much poverty and hunger remains here and how slow progress seems to be. And everywhere you turn, there are more people that can use your help.

Paul

Visit Story from the Man’s View

2010-09-02T05:04:00.001-07:00

Sept 2, 2010 – I know Joyce has already written about our trip to see Eunice, Michael and Mavine. I haven’t read it since I was there so I don’t know what slant she put on it. But here it is from my view.

My guess is Joyce concentrated on the actually visit part – so I’ll be brief here. The kids looked good, the place / home was great – green, clean and large. The grandmother seemed nice and like she liked the kids, but we were only there for a short while. The kids didn’t have many complaints and had fun with the other friends we brought for them to play with. Only thing not handled – the family has not decided on a school for the kids yet.

The rest of the trip:

Pretty typical Kenyan trip:

Started about a hour later then planned, no thanks to the goats that got into the shamba and needed to be officially handled.

This was probably the worst private vehicle I’ve ridden in in Kenyan. Nope, make that second worse – Father Charles’ car last year tops the private list. This one shook, rattled, jerked and creaked. I was expecting major pieces to be flying off, the windows breaking from banging into each other and doors to fly open since they didn’t close tightly to begin with.

30 kilometers long one way of which 2 km were nice paved roads, 8 km had been paved at one time but the tarmac was mostly not there and it was better to drive on the ever expanding shoulders of the road and leave the tarmac pieces to the pedestrians. The rest were dirt or a little dirt mixed with various sizes of rocks and small boulders – all qualities from ‘bumpy’ to ‘oh my word, I hope my eyes don’t shake out!’

We were headed to Rangwe, just to the left of Rodi as approached from the Homa Bay side. Not sure of the NSEW direction – that would be thinking to hard at this time. They are actually through Rangwe in the burbs on the other side. Through town, veer right at the first Y. This looks like a bike path that somebody turned into a road because they now own a car. Take a left someplace up this road. Oops, my mistake – the previous road was a road, this is definitely just a bike path the was recently turned into a bike path that 4 wheel vehicles try to drive on. The brush was slapping through the windows on both side at the same time.

As is normal, had a breakdown on the way – before we got to Homa Bay. Sound like metal slapping on metal – like a important bracket broke. We could not fine anything with a quick inspection, so decided to limp slowly into Homa Bay and have Paul (or we went with Paul (a black Kenyan) and Erin (his white Canadian wife)) go by himself to find someone to repair. Us white folks were dropped off because the bill gets doubled for each white person in the car – because all white people have lots of money.

First call to Paul said that it was a broken shock bracket – just a quick welking job, he’d be back in 10 minutes. Second call 45 minutes later – it’ll be soon. the first repair was done incorrectly and they were fixing it. Of course the fix of the improper repair always takes 4 times longer than the improper first repair.

Finally on our way. Just a quick stop to pick up one mattress for the 3 kids to share.

A nice 3 or so hours at the home – see above for details (or Joyce’s report)

Trip back started later then it should, because we arrived late. Got through Rangwe and Joyce commented on the smoke she was seeing. We thought it was just a little billowing around from all the fire out at the various fields and houses. Nope, it was under Erin. She was riding in the passenger seat up front, which the battery is located underneath. They were using a battery from their home solar system since the car battery was spoiled. It didn’t fit right, the car often didn’t start and the extra wires used to connect the ill-fitting solar battery often needed to be jiggled to get the car to start (which of course meant that Erin had to get out, Paul come around and dismantle the seat and metal plate and rubber covering – that was made from an old rubber tire – and jiggle the wires). Well something jarred loose – really? surprise surprise! So something shorted, caught the quite flammable rubber tire piece to catch fire and cause a great smell and a lot of smoke.

The fire was put out quickly and we were back on our way.

Rest of the trip pretty uneventful other than the girl and the cow we almost ran over – put skidded to a stop in time. And night driving adds it own aspect to the journey. Remember, we got a late start leaving, so it was dark about the last 45 minutes. The vehicle did have head lights, so that helped in seeing the potholes and larger rocks – not so much with bikes and cows.

From Mbita to Rangwe and back,

Paul

A Visit with Mavine, Eunice & Michael

2010-09-02T02:34:00.001-07:00

Yesterday, Paul and I took an all day trek to visit the new homeplace of Mavine (9), Eunice (10) and Michael12). If you have not heard their story, this is what has happened since earlier in the year.

In February, the mother of these children organized her things (important documents, etc) in a small wooden box and told the children she was going to the hospital. She apparently had sores over her whole body that were hard to hide – we assume she had AIDS. She made one phone call to a relative and left a message for an uncle and when the uncle returned the call, her phone was no longer working. No one has heard from her again. The kids were left on their own to fend for themselves for about 4 months until a great couple (Paul – a Luo man, and Erin – his Canadian wife) took in Mavine & Eunice. Michael refused their invitation to live in their house. I think he did not want to admit that his mother was not going to return and he did not want to leave their things (even though they do not have much).

Morgan had received calls from Mavine telling her about their situation so I was really anxious to get back to Mbita to see what was going on. Can you imagine being 9, 10 & 12 and being on your own??? Apparently, the kids stayed a bit with friends and Michael helped out a woman who would give him food, but their situation was awful because there were no relatives around to go to. Once I got to Mbita I was able to sit with the kids and talk and I convinced Michael that going to Paul and Erin’s house was good for him and within a day or two he changed his mind and went to stay with them. Paul and Erin work with orphans and widow’s, so it was perfect for everyone involved. I would have taken them in if they weren’t there!!!

There were so many of us trying to figure out where their family was because it is the extended family’s responsibility to take in orphans…it is shameful if they don’t. Lillian, the Orphan Overseer at CGA, Linnet, a teacher at the kids’ school and Erin were all trying to figure out their story. The kids said they had no one………until all of the puzzle pieces fit together and one person talked to another and all of the sudden there was information about grandparents, an aunt and uncle and a few others who did not live in Mbita. The kids were terrified of having to leave Mbita, but unfortunately, that is what had to happen. Erin and Paul went to the Children’s service’s department in Mbita, and in the grandparent’s town of Rangwe. The chief of Rangwe was consulted and within about 2 weeks the kids were driven away to their new home. It was sad because they did not really get to say goodbye to their friends and they were gone when I returned from my field trip to Nairobi.

Many tearful phone calls later, I finally got them to laugh on the phone...it made me so happy! In the beginning, Mavine and Eunice were telling me terrible stories and just begged to come back to Mbita. It was obviously not my choice, but I tried my best to console them and try to talk the new place up….how nice it was to have a grandmother who loved them, etc…all the time I really just wanted to go and get them and let them come home with me. Mavine is our little “monkey boy” who in a dance, dance, dancing machine, climbs on everything and speaks better English than any of the other kids. He is also hilarious and is the security guard making sure that no one is stealing anything from us, or Paul & Erin’s place. They are all sooooo smart and read really well too. Eunice is just precious and Michael is so good an responsible. It is not much fun here without them!

So, yesterday we piled into Paul’s Land Rover (a pretty terrible car that only broke one shock on the way – which made us stop for a while in Homa Bay to have it repaired - and literally had the seat that Erin was sitting on catch fire, while we were driving…really…smoke and flames were coming out underneath her seat on the way home!) Ah Kenya….all the things we love about this place. We took a few of Mavine & Eunice’s friends with us and also Paul and Erin’s twin “terrible two”-year-old boys. They are quite precious, but have their “moments”. They are trying to adopt these kids…they are the children of Paul’s brother, but of course, Kenyan politics are making it hard for them to adopt them. Joshua fell asleep on my lap on the way and promptly peed his pants….and my lap. It was so nice, but it did dry quickly. I didn’t smell too much like pee until I got home.

The roads were bad so it took us a few hours to get to Rangwe, but it was beautiful. It was so green and Mbita is so brown. It is over the hills from us and the rain basically stops there. It felt like a cloudy Oregon day…good memories of Oregon! When we arrived, Eunice and Michael were waiting “in town”…basically a dirt/mud road with shops on both sides, but a place that Mavine would love to explore. Mavine went home, instead of waiting for us, because he was hungry…sounds like him…but when we came into the compound he was pulling around a poor sheep with a rope tied around his neck. Just pulling it around and around and around. As usual, it was hilarious. Eunice instantly wanted to take me on a tour. The first stop was her grandmother’s grave. Not sure if the grandmother they live with is a co-wife or what….it is so confusing here. The kids live on a beautiful compound with a huge shamba (garden) with banana trees, pineapple, mango trees, avocado trees and a field for maize (just ready to plant). The area is lush and the fru-it (say FRU-IT) is plentiful. We met the grandmother, who I think is younger than me. That is great because she is going to be around for awhile – I hope. She seemed so nice and gentle. The grandfather is in management in a tea factory far away and only comes home 6 times a year for 2-3 days. So, the kids won’t see him much.

The Grandparents must be doing okay financially, because they have a milk cow, 6 sheep, a house girl and a shamba boy. No garbage around the compound – which is so good because garbage is everywhere here. The boys love working on the shamba and were so proud to tell us about it. There is a river close-by and the water is good. The kids will be starting school next week, however they were not sure where. The uncle is a school teacher and will get them settled somehow.

Erin brought a soccer ball for the kids and that was a great hit. She thought it might lure other kids in from around the area. As long as no one steals it. We played and talked and ate rice with tea and had a good day, but all of the sudden it was 5:30 and time to go. We barely had time to have any tearful goodbyes, so that was good. I left the kids with dice and Yahtzee rules. I had taught them to play when the three kids came to our house a few weeks before we left. I also had some POP ROCKS with me…the kind that pop and bubble in your mouth. Mavine thought they were hilarious! He laughed and laughed as they popped and kept trying to “cheat me” into giving him more saying he only had one taste. He always laughs when he tries to cheat me, so it’s easy to tell. He knows that he has me wrapped around his little finger with his charming ways. I tell you, this kids is one in a million. I don’t know if I will ever see him again! :(

Mavine and Michael seemed okay when we left, but Eunice was just about ready to burst into tears. She had told me earlier in the day that she wanted to come back to Mbita with us. I had to tell her that this was her home now and that she had to stay. ohhhhhh….so hard… The kids will come back to spend December with Paul and Erin, but I hope that will not be too hard for them to return to their new home. Everyone here says that it is best for them to be with “family” and I do agree, but right now it is hard.

So that is my story of Mavine the Monkey Boy and his sister and brother. Another sad story, but that is life here in Kenya. So different from our life in the USA. Be grateful for what you have and thank God every day that you live in America…life is so hard here and every child has their own story. It is mind boggling!

This That and Whatever

2010-08-31T00:20:00.001-07:00

Aug 31, 2010 – Vicki arrives this week on Friday. Hopefully she makes the connection in Nairobi to Kisumu. She has to pass through immigration which can take a while.

This post brought to you by Bhavniks ltd, your first choice for wedding cakes and internet access. Cakes made while you browse!

There are a lot of internet cafes in Kisumu, some with what we might think is an unusual side business – or maybe the internet is the side business. At one ksh (about 1.2 cents) a minute I’m not sure haw much they can actually make. I think one way they make money is having a slow connection so you wait a long time to load pages.

T-shirt of the day – worn by a girl: I wish these were brains.

Joyce’s road rage trigger has been found. Of course she is walking, but it relates the piki pikis (motor bikes). Since side walks (or paths) here aren’t always available, many time we must walk on the side of the road. The pikis seem to like to honk at you and then pass close to you, even when they have the entire rest of the road available and no other traffic and the road is just as good on the other side as where we are walking. This just ticks Joyce off. So unusual for her as she is always the one back home to tell me to chill when things irritate me when I’m driving. And what she hates even more is when they drive on the footpath that is actually a footpath on the side of the road and in no way part of the road. They do this mostly when the road is muddy and the path is drier. Sometimes they even do it because the road is so rutted (because is was wet and has now dried) it is smoother to ride the footpath. I must admit, I don’t like when they ride the footpath either and a lot of times I don’t move – pretending I don’t know they are coming.

It has rained a few nights here in the last week. This makes the roads much less dusty. But it has already made some areas very muddy. I’d like to see more rain, just to see what Mbita is like after lots of rain.

Tuition is going this week at school. That’s like tutoring for most the classes. Seems just like classes to me but it is not. Its to help the kids learn more or catch up. It’s mandatory and is all day just like school.

The hammer cocks are trying to build a nest on the solar panels at Steve and Judi’s. I happen to notice that one was flying up to the roof with a mouth full of grass. We investigated and found quite a bit of debris already on the panels. Joe cleaned them off last night, but this morning I saw one taking another load up already. I’ll have to check tonight to see how much is up there.

Went to Kisumu last weekend. Joe’s football club was playing in a tournament so we could ride there in some comfort. Since we had 9, maybe 10, players in the car, Joyce road on my lap in the front seat. Still better than a matatu. When we go to pick Vicki from Kisumu this weekend we get to ride public.

Interesting that it was quite green on the other side of the lake where the ferry land and Mbita is really dry. We just don’t catch much rain here, right on the lake.

Got a good meal in Kisumu, and got to the great ice cream place. Got caught at the restaurant for a while in a thunderstorm. It’s sort of enclosed but still rain was blowing in from the sides. When we arrived at where we were staying, with Sandy and Dick, we had to get out of the tuk tuk and pound on the gate, getting quite wet. But it was a warm wet.

Sandy is an upper cervical chiropractic, so Joyce and I went to get adjusted by her. For the $6 it seems worth it and we hope to go next weekend again.

It’s weird to me on how many car washes there are around, particularly in Kisumu. Some roads are just lined with them. A number of them even have pressure washers. I’d be afraid to wash some of the cars, as the dirt seems to be holding them together.

While in Kisumu a glue sniffing street boy came up to us and asked for money for food. Morgan offered to trade him his glue bottle for some food. He agreed handing over his bottle. Morgan dug into her bag and pulled out a bag of nuts. This wasn’t satisfactory to the boy. He complained that the nuts (peanuts I think) were dangerous. We said no, but his glue was. In the end Morgan ended up trading him back.

Time to review pictures and post a few of those.

Remember, Have you cake and eat it to while surfing the waves of the internet at Bhavniks.

Paul

Pictures and Video

2010-08-26T01:00:00.001-07:00

Just a note to let you know I added a bunch of pictures yesterday and if you’ve already looked at those, I’m also adding a video right now.

Water

2010-08-25T04:07:00.001-07:00

Aug 25, 2010 – 4th day in a row that it had been over cast. Makes it seem a lot cooler, but still think it could be hitting the mid 80s. Sort of been expecting rain, but have not seen any yet. Been drive for quite a few days, not even seeing lightning in the distance. Make for nice dust clouds when the vehicles rush down the road. And the lake is getting hazier. At times it is hard to see Mfangano.

But the big water story is the spoiled (broken) water tank at CGA. This is a 6000 liter (1500-1600 gal) tank.

Started off about 6:30 this morning with neighbor Joe coming to my bedroom window and waking me saying we needed to go up and handle something at school. I’ve been tossing and turning a while so it was not to rude of an awakening. I’m ready to go in less than 3 minutes and we head up. Of course I’m thinking bad – break in people or property badly damaged. Then I realized the 2 calls that came in at 4:30 this morning were probably about this. I just got up, saw that it was just a number, meaning the number was not in the phone, so i turned the phone off. When I turned it on on the way to CGA, I had 4 text messages waiting for me.

Anyway, Joe explained on the way up that the person delivering charcoal ran into a water tank and broke it. Why delivered at 4:30am in the dark? Story I was told was because they had to be in Homa Bay by 6am. Real reason, most charcoal is illegal because it is made from wood cut illegally. So don’t want to get caught during the day. But charcoal is all over here, sold on the side of the road up and down from here. So not much done to stop it.

We get up there and inspect the damage. 5 foot crack about 1/3rd of the way up the tank, plus part of the top is almost cracked off. Heard that repairs do not hold so the $500 tank is probably worthless. The pickup is still in place where it hit the tank, the driver and 2 helpers still waiting for us to show up, a good 2 hours after the incident.

Joe and I talk with the driver. He points to the pedals and says something about the brake. We both assume that he said something about the brakes not working and he he tries to turn and didn’t see the tank. Believable looking at the truck that the brakes are bad.

Talk for a while, get the drivers ID card, try to discuss what should be done. How much and who should pay – driver, truck owner, coal seller, insurance company (the truck was actually insured). Talk with all and find out that the coal seller’s parents own the truck, and later that the driver is related – a distant relative. So we settle with anyone and let the family decide who is responsible and owes what.

After a few moments I survey the scene and note that the road from the kitchen where the coal was dropped to the tank dips down from the kitchen and then back up to the tank. The top of the road is maybe 2 or 3 feet higher than the tank end and that there are 6 inch high rocks about 4 feet in front of the tank along the side of the road. So, if the truck coasted down the road from the kitchen, and up to the tank it was quite unlikely that it would make it up the hill, bump over the rocks and hit the tank. I look closer and note that the road (dirt and rocks of course) shows indications that the trucks wheels were spinning trying to get up the hill like it was having trouble even making it up the hill. So thinking that the truck just rolled down from the kitchen, up and into the tank and the brakes gave out was what happened didn’t add up.

We question the driver again, with some help. Ahh, the driver had trouble getting the brake applied. His foot was stuck on the accelerator because the hole in the bottom sole of his shoe got caught in the pedals. That makes sense. He’s accelerated up the hill, his foot got caught and couldn’t apply the brake, a little panic, dark, didn’t want to turn down hill to the gate, turned the other way and boom (or bump, pop) the tank no longer holds water.

40,000 ksh water tank spoiled because of a spoiled shoe.

So we get the coal seller on the phone, she is coming to school to discuss so we take the other 7 bags of charcoal on the truck (besides the 10 they already delivered) and release the driver, helper and truck. Didn’t really want to take them to the police – that would not help us recover our money, just put a bigger burden on the vehicle owner.

Knowing that not all drivers are licensed, especially piki-piki drivers I asked to see the drivers license. He was actually licensed to drive commercial vehicles! And he was quick to point out that it did not expire until tomorrow! He was legal.

The lady came. She actually admitted some responsibility and wanted to come to a fair compromise. A bit unusually for a Kenyan to admit such a thing, they are often like kids that deny load and long even if you are standing watching when it happens. With the help of Willis, a long time CGA assistant to Steve, the real manager, we prayed about it and decided we would keep the 17 bags of charcoal without paying as restitution for the tank.

Steve didn’t train me for this one.

CGA Acting Manager,

Paul

Monday Morning

2010-08-25T03:07:00.001-07:00

Aug 23, 2010 – 8:30am The start of another week. This one should be a little busier for us. Morgan is coming for a visit with Justin who is visiting from the US and Kelsey and Rachelle – both Americans living in Kenya for extended periods. We will be celebrating Morgan’s birthday today or tomorrow with the kids – pictures to follow.

The excitement last week was Joe having a (unfortunately) former student arrested. This kid had a very promising future – good student and athlete as well. He was being sponsored at a good secondary school.

Here’s the short story. He was originally presented as a full orphan. After 8 years he fesses up that both his parents are alive. His mom actually submitted the forged documents.

(It’s now Wed afternoon and I’m just getting back to this after a few happening days.)

He started acting up in school, not doing well, skipping class, etc. And he was ‘spoiling young girls’ in the Mbita area. Not a good thing. Joe and the school was still working with him, showing mercy, counseling him and still willing to help. But minutes after a heart to heart talk with him up at CGA he stole the principles phone. Last straw, game over. No longer will he be supported.

He came back to town and Joe did not think was a good thing. He went to talk with the boy. When the boy saw him he took off running. Joe followed suit, in his nice clothes, including dress shoes. Joe’s in shape, but this kid is fast. Anyway Joe chased a while, including past the men’s bathing beach, where they were on his side, standing up, all soaped up, shouting he went that way. Joe’s thinking ‘thank you naked uncircumcised black man’.

Joe doesn’t catch him. Later that evening Joe has paid 20 ksh to a child neighbor to report to him if the boy returns, has talked to several people to verify stories, made a trip tp the police station and given chase a second time when the boy shows up at home. He even goes room to room with a candle checking under beds and in closets to see if the boy is hiding.

Fast forward a day or so and the boy turns up at relatives in Kisumu area. This is the place he went after stealing the phone and a relative searched him, found it and returned it. A few calls from the police and Joe and they bring the boy to the Mbita police (who are dealing with a double murder of fishermen up the road a ways). They throw the by in jail and the idea is sprung for the police to bring him in hand cuffs to CGA and talk with the students. So that happened last Friday afternoon.

Currently we do not know if the boy is still in jail. Last we heard, he was in jail and the family was not to bring food (meals are not provided by the police). Police said they would give him a little so he would not starve.

From the Mbita Police Blotter,

Paul

Dear Joyce – a letter from Brian (not Byron)

2010-08-21T11:39:00.001-07:00

Dear Joyce

hello: Joyce I love you with all my heart. I love you like I love God. I now you are thinking Mavin. I now sometimes you cry. I miss Mavin and Micole and Unise. I don’t know the spelling of there names but I miss them. Our best friends are not there. I don’t have anything to say now. see you goodbye LOVE BRIAN

(a drawing of a tree here)

it is ten years old

this tree is next to our house

it belongs to me

(this is a letter that I was secretly handed by Brian’s little brother, Kevin…when we prayed for Mavine, Eunice and Michael in church on Sunday, Brian saw me crying during the prayers…oops about the part that he loves me like he loves God…sorry God!)

Field Trip to Nairobi with Class 8 - Joyce

2010-08-20T23:43:00.001-07:00

Traveling to Nairobi can be a huge adventure in itself, but imagine taking 24 8th graders with you on a adventure of a lifetime. For five days last week I traveled with a group of kids from Christ’s Gift Academy, and 9 other adults (7 teachers and 2 PTA members). Many of the students had never been out of Mbita so we were looking forward to introducing them to things they had never experienced or seen before.

After traveling for the whole day in a hired bus and one private vehicle, we arrived at our destination. There were only 4 or 5 kids that vomited along the way…pretty good considering some had never been on a road trip. We all stayed in a dormitory at a primary boarding school within walking distance of downtown Nairobi. It was a decent place with two big dorm rooms (one for girls and one for boys).

The next morn ing we were up and out early to go to the Giraffe Center and we fed real giraffe’s!

The kids enjoyed it so much but were a little intimidated by their long slobbery tongues. Off then to the Elephant Orphanage where the baby elephants came running out of the bush to their caregivers who had huge bottles of milk (?) to feed them…so adorable, and the kids were amazed. Then the teenage elephants surprised us all, after the babies left, by charging out of the bush and making a lot of noise. The caregivers gave some great information about how all of the elephants were orphaned or found alone. This place is only open for one hour a day and the elephants are actually part of Nairobi National Park. I love those baby elephants!

Took the kids for a quick look at The Bomas of Kenya, but we actually only went into one building for about 2 minutes. Not really sure what that was all about. Then, the most exciting part of the day! It was buy-one-get-one-free day at the local pizza place. Joe and I thought it was a great idea for lunch, but we were only about 50/50 on the kids liking it, or not. The boys said “it is so light”…basically, I think they were hungry since they are used to filling their stomachs with Ugali (a big lump of maize flour and water…boring, but filling). We probably should have fed them twice as much pizza so they would have been satisfied. Oh, well.

Off then to the Safari Walk, part of Nairobi National Park. It was a nice walk through a zoo-like area right in the beginning of NNP. It was great because the kids got to see animals up close. Colobus monkeys, a rhino, ostrich, leopard, cape buffalo, emu, baboons, crocks, and the cutest little pigmy hippo. We all really enjoyed that day. It was a mix between a zoo and a nature path. The animals had really nice enclosures.

I think one of the highlights of the day was our tour of Wilson Airport. This is a small airplane airport and we were able to go right out on the tarmac with the small airplanes. The kids really loved watching the take-off and landings of the airplanes. The day ended back at the primary school with dinner and a guest bible study leader. The day was great and the kids loved it.?

Day 3 began by walking into town and going up to the top of the KICC building, which is the 2nd tallest building in East Africa...about 29 floors. The kids were a little unsure about the elevator but jumped in, ready for adventure. We had a nice tour guide who explained a lot about the city as we looked over the rooftops of all of Nairobi. We also had the opportunity to go to High Court and sit in on some hearings/trials. One lady was being tried for sending threatening text messages to her husbands lover. Kind of nice to see that Kenya actually hears cases like that…she pled not guilty! We had a great Q & A with a court official and the kids asked really good questions. Then on to lunch at The Stomach Clinic. Yes, The Stomach Clinic. Sounds tasty, doesn’t it? It was actually really good Chicken and chapati (or Ugali if you were so inclined…and I was not!).

Off then to Parliament. We were able to spend about 50 minutes watching the MP’s and Cabinet discussing political/government issues. Not quite sure how they get anything done because people came in late, put their feet up and slouched around talking and laughing each other – while presentations and questioning was happening! Most primary schools are only allowed 10 minutes in Parliament, but Joe and Mr. Gwalla had connections and we were able to stay longer. Our day ended with a really long walk back to the school in the middle of rush hour. Rush hour in Nairobi is not anything that you want to be in the middle of. As a pedestrian or a vehicle. Every time we crossed a street I was praying that we wouldn’t loose anyone. We were very successful! We did not lose anyone or have any injuries…thank you God. Back home for dinner and sharing. The kids were great at discussing their day, but the three old ladies (we are 40, 52 and 54) went to bed a little early. Great day!

Our last day full day in Nairobi was spent touring Kenyatta University, which actually has a nice campus – sort of like a U.S. university. It was fun when our library tour guide sent one of the girls through the library metal detector with a book that had not been scanned. The book beeped and the class thought that was hilarious. They also got to play DJ at the radio station. After lunch we took a drive to Thika (you know, the book The Flame Trees of Thika?) where there were 2 great waterfalls, and a small animal park. The kids seemed to enjoy it. Then off to Kasarani Sports complex. It is the biggest sport complex in East Africa. It was built about 27 years ago, by the Chinese, and is now having a complete overhaul. There were workers inside the arena working on something. I did find a box inside (like a “suggestion box”) that said “Report all corrupt practices here”. I thought that was pretty funny. We went into the football stadium, the basketball arena and the amazing swim center. I wanted to jump into the pools so badly! They had an amazing diving pool with 1, 3, 5 & 10 meter diving boards. It was beautiful. I think the next time the kids tour there they need to bring their suits. Then back to Nairobi to try to get to the National Museum before it closed at 6:00. We made it with 5 minutes to spare. So a quick (fully priced) 15-minute-run-through-the-museum and we were finished. It was a great museum, and the kids were disappointed not to stay longer. However, they did have shopping on their minds and did not want to delay that. So, we took them to a big Mega-supermarket called Nakumat after we barely made it through the crazy rush hour traffic of Nairobi. They had 30 minutes to shop with the little pocket money that they had, but they came out with big bags of stuff. Lots of candy that they proceeded to eat over the next hour…and I don’t need to tell you how that went. We had to finally stop the madness, especially since they had just eaten dinner. When we finally pulled them off of the ceiling, we had a nice closing bible study and finally went to bed, but had to pack first.

Off and rolling by 7am to stop to tour a tea plantation in Kericho by 11:00. Well, we made it there by 12:45 and had to leave by 2 to make the 6:00 ferry. We were lucky that we left about 3. The tea plantation tour was really interesting as our tour guide showed us how all the workers had to sanitize their shoes before they could go inside the plant. After his explanation, we all just walked inside the plant…without sanitizing our shoes. DRINK TEA FROM KENYA!!! From when the picked tea leaves were put into the processing plant to the end product - it took three hours. Wet tea leaves to dry tea! Pretty impressive (except for the shoe sanitation part) We were lucky that none of us were impaled by the swinging hooks that we ducked under during our tour. So, about 3:00 (making us quite nervous about the time, since the last ferry to Mbita leaves at 6pm) we rushed out of the plantation and grabbed our lunch that Joe had arranged to be bagged-up-to-go. Yummy – greasy chips (french fries) and sausage or beef pilaf (with no silverware) for the teachers. Oh well, it isn’t about the food is it? We had to drive like crazy to get back, but by the grace of God…we made it…just barely! We only had one student vomit in the car on the way home! Thank goodness the ferry did not leave on time and that there was not one more car ahead of us. Joe’s vehicle barely made it on! God is good and protected us all along our journey. The kids had an experience of a lifetime that they will never forget. I was so happy to be a part of it. Thanks for letting me tag along Mr. Gwalla!

Mfangano Island

2010-08-20T10:49:00.001-07:00

Yesterday Jenny wanted to go and visit one of the Suba Laker Girls soccer players out on Mfangano Island. Not having much to do, Joyce and I invited ourselves along. Actually had 6 of us in all.

This being an island of course caused us to have to take a boat ride. We chartered a boat, one of the few steel boats on the lake, at least in these parts. The boat maker and captain is actually a British chap who has been living here in Mbita for 23 years. It would take at least 23 blogs to describe this man. Quite an interesting fellow in a number of way. But we hear he makes a killer pizza in his brick pizza oven.

It was a great day for a boat ride on the lake. Had cloud cover most of the day. The boat also had a tarp over the seating area – which can hold over 20 we are told. It was about a two hour trip out. The lake was calm, the breeze just right, so all we were missing was the rum punch. A lot of the time we were close enough to shore to see the sites. A lot of little beaches the people come to bath, wash themselves or dishes or both,m or park the boat.

Where we live Rusinga Island is just across the water, connecting with Mbita (main land) making our area look like a bay (which I guess it technically is since the two are connected with a causeway. Mfangano is also in view, along with a few smaller islands causing the lake to not look all that big. But once you get past Rusinga on the boat and can look out to the lake, you see nothing but water all the way to the horizon. The lake is 160 by 200 miles, so it does go on for a ways. The average depth is only 130 feet, so pretty shallow over all. And it sits at an elevation of 3700 ft. Okay, enough of the geography lesson.

So our destination was Wakula Beach. Doesn’t this nice sign just remind you of some nice Hawaiian beach call to the tourist? Actually the sign is part of some cultural museum located on a different part of the island, but you can come to this beach and take a 90 minute walk to see some rock paintings.

This is a fishing village which generally go by a name that ends with Beach. There were 6 dozen or so home and a couple little shops just off the beach. From town things spread out to the surrounding area with many more homes. The place is remote, being that it is surrounded by hills like you see in the background on all sides. But there must be a number of families around. We took a short walk and found the primary school not to far away. It had a nice football pitch and some new buildings being constructed. I was actually kind of impressed with how nice the school property was.

Wilson, the captain, seemed to get stopped quite often. Seemed like many people know him even out here, not that he knows them. But within minutes of arriving he got asked to look at the posho mill (powered maize grinder) and someone’s boat engine (which was very similar to ones that he is the representative to sell in the area).

We came to this place because Joe and Jen wanted to visit one of the girls that was on the Suba Lakers Football team. She just turned 15 a couple weeks ago and has a new baby. Since she is kind of in a remote area, this was a surprise visit to her. Joyce and I didn’t actually go to see her, since the other four were there to do that and we didn’t want to overwhelm her with a couple white strangers. Her place was a 30 minute walk from town. But they wanted to come and see the new baby and encourage her. She made it through second term before she gave birth. The school says she can’t come back third term – they need to make an example out of the girls how get pregnant. I don’t think I agree with that stance.

Joyce and I hung at town, other than our little walk. Had fun listening to Wilson talk with the locals. Watching the drunk fishermen try and talk with us. And entertained by the drunk older man waving the walking cane and threatening various stuff.

We headed back to Mbita a little late. Once the girl’s mom returned, she insisted on cooking them lunch – fresh from the garden and chicken from live to table in about 30 minutes.

Again, saw much local life on our way back, complete with swimmers waving at us

(see them over Joyce’s shoulder).

And a special treat on the way back. We stopped off at the Mfangano Island Camp. One of those overly plush resorts in the middle of fishing villages that you don’t expect to be there. Only like a minimum of $250 a night per head. There’s a new manager and Wilson wanted to meet him, since he has done work there before wanted to make contact in case they needed work in the future (see I told you 23 blogs to cover Wilson himself). This is the open air bar – the manager, a youngish English lad that only started a couple weeks ago, bought us drinks.

On the way back you got a good view of the haze the hangs on the lake. you can see that the hills are more obstructed the further they are. Also note the bland blue sky at lake level and the gradual brighter blue as you get to the top of the picture. Wilson told us that it’s from farmers on the other side of the lake burning to get ready for the growing season. But I’ve noticed it all the time, so something else must contribute to it also.

Do to the late start on the return it ended up a sunset cruise. The haze made for a remarkable red sunset on the horizon.

That’s Wilson in the corner.

From a day on the lake,

Paul

Byron

2010-08-20T08:12:00.001-07:00

So, here is my update on Byron. Since we were here last year I (Joyce) have been trying to get Byron enrolled at CGA. It is really difficult to get into any class except for the Nursery class because the class of 30 second graders becomes the class of 30 third graders….and so on. Out of all of the kids that we are lovin’ on, Byron is really the only one who has a chance to get it. He is also the only total orphan, except Mavine, Eunice and Michael, and that is who CGA caters to…the total or partial orphan.

Anyway, Lillian, the Orphan Overseer at CGA and I visited Byron, his grandmother (not really his grandmother…it is so complicated) and his uncles last year. We told them that I wanted to help Byron at CGA but it was up to them to provide the legal documents of his birth and the death certificate of his mother. So many people have forged these documents at the beginning of CGA only to find out later that some of the kids actually had parents, so they are pretty strict about proper documents. Of course, last year no one did anything to secure the documents. I could not understand why these people would not do everything in their power to help this child, but some people can be really lazy here in Kenya. The good news is….Byron’s uncle has the mother’s death certificate now!!! And the birth certificate is relatively easy to get so we are 75% there. David, Byron’s uncle, seems to really care about Byron and Byron is always happy to see him. According to some records that David has obtained, Byron was born on June 25, 2007. I really think he might have been born one year earlier…but no one ever seems to know their date of birth.

Today I decided to take Byron to the doctor because there are several things that I was worried about concerning his health. I am pretty sure that his mom died of AIDS so I wanted to have him tested and YAY!!! HE IS NEGATIVE! No HIV/AIDS for this sweet Luo boy. Next, he has a real big tummy and I wanted to see if he had worms…YES….he has worms and amoebas! So we got some medication for that. Also, he had a terrible puss-filled ear infection last year and I wanted to check on that…it seemed fine! I was also concerned that his head wound, from being hit with an axe (apparently an accident about 2 months ago) was not healing very well and I wanted the doctor to see the wound. Go figure, the child gets hit on the top of the head by an axe and no one took him to the doctor for stitches. Lastly, when I was wiping his little bottom after he poopered yesterday, I found some blood so that really concerned me. So Dr. Sawa sent him to the lab for a stool sample, and a finger prick. I told David that I was a mom and would be happy to take him to the bathroom and Byron was awesome and just poopered a little bit in the cup for me! This is too much information, isn’t it?

When we were finished with everything we came away with 3 prescriptions, some betadine for his head and once vitamin tablet. It cost me a total of $24.00 for the doctor’s visit, the tests and all the medications. Byron should be in good shape soon if his grandmother will give him his meds. David said that he will help with those. He seems to be a really sweet young man…about Nick’s age, with no wife or kids yet. He has a good job working for an NGO helping school kids with uniforms, shoes and books. I am hoping to be able to have him help our other little friends Oluach and Odis. Their father is a drunkard who would not pay Oluach’s school fee of $1.90 so these brothers are not in school…I will save that story for another day.

Sister Adrian, Byron’s nursery school manager, says that Byron considers me his mother now. I don’t know how I am going to leave in 2 months, but at least I will be able to keep up with Byron if he gets into CGA. Yesterday, Sister Adrian (who has been an nun for over 50 years!), Byron and David showed up at our house on David;s pikipiki (motorbike). Byron was able to tell them how to get here! The child is brilliant…but also a cheeky monkey! When I was approaching the area where he lives a couple of days ago, I saw Byron kicking, Jackie Chan style, another little boy. I think he is the terror of his neighborhood, but he is left alone all day, locked out of his house, while his old grandmother tries to find work, with no one to love him or discipline him. Most of the time Byron is hungry when he comes to play at my house. Who doesn’t love to feed kids??? I love to feed kids and do it every chance I get!

I will let you know when Byron is enrolled at CGA…it is really excited to know that there is occasionally something we can do that will make a life=long impact on a child. Byron will have to walk down a dusty road everyday over a mile to school, but Lillian says that these little ones can always do it. It might take a few weeks to get used to it, but I am breaking Byron in now because our house is near the school. He will have a uniform, new shoes and two meals a day at school and teachers that will love him and not “cane” him. And he will learn about Jesus too! How can it be better than that? I know, he could come and live with me, or Morgan, or Ashley or Nick!

Not Much to Report

2010-08-20T03:49:00.001-07:00

Aug 18, 2010 - Been a slow couple of days. Not much going on for us. Kids have been coming over some, but not much. Not much happening at school. One of the other mzungus brought a laptop by with a bad screen. I past some time trying to see if I could do anything about it. Always like taking things apart to see how they work. Did get it fixed. Nothing obvious and I didn’t want to do any additional damage. I did figure out an easier way to squeeze the screen to make it work. That was about it. At least it was no worse off.

You know how vinyl car seats absorb and retain heat so well? Well I’ve found something even better. Ugali. (The corn maize and water stuff that is boiled until the consistency of play dough but not as tasty). They can serve it hours after it is cooked and it is still to hot to even handle your bowl. And it will still burn your mouth. The stuff is just a hunk of bland heat retaining mushness.

Need to do other things and it is already the 20th, so this blog is going nowhere anyway.

Paul

Joyce’s Fun Facts

2010-08-17T21:29:00.001-07:00

DID YOU KNOW THAT…

Mavine, Eunice and Michael laughed and laughed on the phone when they talked to me yesterday!

most Kenyans are afraid of dogs and frogs.

it takes 1/2 if a bucket of water to flush the toilet properly.

when you greet a Kenyan by saying “hello” the answer is usually “I’m fine”

you always have to shake everyone’s hand when you enter a room.

it’s not very much fun to step on a cockroach or a gecko in the middle of the night, with your bare feet.

eggs do not require refrigeration…really!

you should pick tomatoes when they are just turning from green to yellowish so the birds don’t eat them.

tomatoes turn from green to red in just 2-3 days just sitting in your kitchen

tomatoes are delicious…and we eat them everyday!

I still don’t want to eat ugali.

Brinkley, the cat, likes to kill the mice and cockroaches in the house – YAY!

Lake Victoria looks like a white-lighted Christmas tree at night because of all of the fishermen out in their boats (they use lights to attract the fish to the top of the water)…it is so pretty!

today I am taking Byron to the doctor to get rid of his worms, talk about why he has blood in his poop, see why his head has not healed from being hit with a panga (machete) and have him tested for HIV!

MORE FUN FACTS TO COME LATER!!!

This, That and Other Things

2010-08-16T03:25:00.001-07:00

Aug 16, 2010,

Can’t remember is I’ve relayed this one. Morgan had a phone conversation with Mavine the night she was in Mbita. Here is Morgan’s side (as best I remember)

------

Hello,

Hello. Is this Eunice?

No. Mavine.

Hi Mavine

Where are you?

In the toilet.

Yes the toilet.

No, I can not smell it.

No Mavine, this is a phone. I can only hear you. I can not smell the toilet.

---------

The kid has an inquisitive mind.

Even though Joyce is no taller here in Mbita then she is in Beaverton, she is easier to spot on a crowd. I think it is the ponytail she is often wearing. It could be the white hat.

Many cockroaches have seem to succumb to the dudu dust even though my prime target was the ants. The ants seem under control right now as well.

Brinkley (the annoying cat) caught a little mouse in the house the other day.

We’ve now thrown three frogs from the house.

Joyce is back from Nairobi with the 8th grade class. Trip was good and they made the last ferry of the day – just barely.

It got a little lonely without her and I went into a bit of a funk for a couple days – even after she was back. I was feeling like – been here long enough. I’d be okay with us going home anytime now. That has passed for the most part.

Attended a football (soccer for you Americans) tournament over the weekend. Talk about dysfunctional. 15+ teams and they expected to complete it in one day on one field. Of course the 8am start time slipped a little, to something past noon. I thought a fight was going to breakout when the refs started to leave while the sun was still up (about 6:20pm). The Ref finally came back onto the field for one more match about 30 minutes before sunset. I left at that time. Only one of the 2 teams I came to see got to play.

Someone I’ve never heard of (that is Steve did not tell me about) just came buy for transportation money to go to Kisumu for diabetes treatment. Fortunately the guard spotted the man’s name on a note stuck to the board. I let him have $10 for the journey.

The dogs are chewing up the day bed pad in the room they sleep in. They’ve done it twice. As far as we know they had not done it before. So the pad’s now need to sleep in another room so the dogs can’t get to them.

The tomatoes are coming, the tomatoes are coming. And will be coming out our ears soon with all they Steve planted before he left. Good thing we like them. Yumm salsa. And Joyce got more garlic for us, so yumm, yumm.

No pineapples for over 3 weeks.

We have a house guest for the week. Jenny is her name. A speech therapist. Been working in Nairobi for a while, but thinking of doing her work in the Mbita / Kisumu area.

The best pictures as still being missed. Like the camel in Mbita, giving rides for 20 ksh. It looked pretty pathetic, but would have been a good picture. And the one of the motorbike carrying a couch and 2 chairs down the road.

And even with a camera, it still sometimes does not do justice to the scene. Like the sounds that go with a sunset. Or the real expanse and wonderment of the hundred lights on the lake at night, from the fishermen trying to attract the bugs to attract the fish. Like trying to show the wonderment of stars on a postcard. I’d really like to have camer-aroma. Some of the pictures would have totally different impact if you could smell the aromas (or stink) that is involved.

Time to look at more pictures from the other camera.

Paul

A Sad Day in Mbita

2010-08-13T09:05:00.001-07:00

Aug 13, 2010 – I’m sure everyday is a sad day in Mbita for somebody. With the poverty, disease, meager wages – if one is fortunate enough to have a job, lack of food and death I’m sure sadness is here everyday.

But today it was closer to home and I actually found tears in my eyes.

Today Michael, Eunice and Mavine left Mbita.

It started off as a slow day for me. Not much planned – needed to go towards town to make arrangements with Margaret, the banana craft lady, to talk with her group about their solar cooker. Wasn’t sure what else I wanted to do while waiting for Joyce to get back from Nairobi – reunited at last.

I did have to go up to school at some point to by George. That was it for needed school duties today.

So on my way to see Margaret I decided I would continue on into town for no particular reason. After talking to Margaret, I decided to take the road that goes by (oh my, just noticed the sunset – a brilliant orange – red - yellow ball just touching the crest of the foothills on Rusinga Island across the lake) Erin and Paul’s home, where Michael, Eunice and Mavin stay. I saw a vehicle being packed up, with chairs, trunks and other personal items tied down on top. Erin was standing next to the car as I walked up.

As I listened to her my heart sank and my eyes teared.

Erin, Paul and the kids relatives had visited child services yesterday. It had been decide that a meeting was needed with the child services people close to where the relatives lived. So the kids had been packed up, placed in the car and were headed out to a town they did not know, with people they did not know. Fortunately Paul was driving, so he would be with them.

But the fact was that there would almost no chance that they would be returning to Mbita this day, or in the weeks to come.

Marvin is the outspoken one, and told the children’s officer that he did not know these people, did not know who they were, did not know where they lived, did not want to go with them.

It was a sad day.

All week they three of them had been at an overnight camp, with 20 other kids, at Seek up the road. It was a Children of Discipleship program where they had meditation time, bible studies, meals, singing and dancing. Since Joyce was gone, I had been invited to dinner last night. Much to my delight they were all dancing and singing when I arrived. After dinner it got better with a run through of the program that the kids would present at a beach up the road in the morning. These beaches are small fishing communities and are considered the poorest of the area. Mavin had a verse her was reciting and in the prodigal son play. All three were dancing and singing.

But they would not get to make the trip and show the blessing of God with the kids up the road. They needed to go in the morning to the meeting with the child services people and had to miss the opportunity to evangelize to others. I knew how excited they were to be able to go to this camp.

From Mbita,

Paul

Bachelor Living

2010-08-12T07:28:00.001-07:00

Had to re-publish I forgot the blog sponsor – Stomach Check Point featuring cultural and modern foods. Might need a head check to eat here, but worth a try with that catchy name that says it all.

Aug 12, 2010 – Besides battling ants and dealing with the dogs covering the floor of the veranda with shreds of foam from the cushion, the best thing about being left along is eating whatever you want. Yes, hot pizza and a cold beer every meal. Not even in my dreams. No cheese, no refrigeration.

Being left on my own for meals here reminds me of a time in high school when I needed to fend for my self for a weekend or so one summer. Must have been summer because of my food choice. Must have been high school, because the older siblings were not around, and the younger one probably had to go on the trip with the parents.

My food of choice was watermelon. I’m pretty sure I had watermelon and only watermelon for 4 out of 5 meals a day. I probably skipped the 5th meal. Nice cold watermelon, nice thick slices. Delicsh.

This time my food of choice is guacamole, salsa and baked chapatti wedges (like tortilla chips). Fresh made quac and salsa. Delicsh. Not as easy as the watermelon, having to walk a mile to get the avocados and having to cut up and prepare everything from scratch, but worth the time. Only having it one meal a day and some for snacks, if their is leftovers.

But the prep work for making a meal for one is not quite worth the work three time a day. So I’m down to 2 meals if I’m preparing, with maybe a snack if i have leftovers. Just another component of the Mbita diet.

I’m done,

Paul

Ants

2010-08-12T07:14:00.001-07:00

Aug 12, 2010 – Brought to you by other things that make you cringe – adult circumcision – VMMC (Voluntary Medical Male Circumcision). Make me wonder what non-medical circumcision is.

By the way, I found one last sponsor Group le Computer. Their signage over their door read Group le Kleaners, offering, among other services, dry cleaning, landscaping and beautification. I went inside and no one was there, not even the person who ran the joint.

Ants – I’ve been having a running battle with them for a week now. I may be making some headway finally. You who have looked at the pictures saw that the ants greatly out numbered the bites of cat food. I’m not so worried about the cat, but the ones in the kitchen are another matter.

Did you know that ants like guacamole and don’t like salsa? Love, love, love honey, like jelly and are fond of peanut butter, don’t do coffee. I’m using DOOM, the bug killer. Love the name, not so impressed with the results. Says it will last 2 weeks – I’m not getting 2 days out of it before the ants are back where I sprayed.

Always nervous spraying a killing substance of any sort in the kitchen. Been trying to avoid the food and even the containers, but with the wind blowing, who knows where it ends up.

Best way to get the ants off something – dunk it in water and watch them float. Only works for items that are okay to dunk – sealed honey jars = okay, bowl of cat food = not okay. Best solution for the cat food is to set it outside and forget about it long enough. Long enough for the dogs to find it and eat it, ants and all.

I’m now trying dudu dust. It’s a powdered insect killer. Seems to be working around the cat bowl. Always a little hesitant to use it in the kitchen and get it on my hands. I keep wondering how much I need to ingest before I get sick. Drawback – doesn’t work well on walls when the ant path is come from the ceiling.

Besides not wanting to eat a lot of them (a few are expected here and is okay) they are small ones that I have trouble spotting. With my old eyes going so I can’t see them well without reading glasses, the small size and the dimness at night, I don’t see them at first. First I fell them crawling up my arm. AHH, not again. Set the item down, sending the ants scurrying in all directions all over the counter, brush them off always leaving a few sneaky one that make it to the cuff line, look at the spot the item came from to see what else is being molested by them, sighing, start gather all the items to be dunked, clear the shelf, spray the DOOM. Wash hands, find the ants up the sleeve, sit and enjoy the food – with the glasses off.

Time to let the laptop rest and recharge. Need to do the lunch dishes and relax before going over to SEEK for dinner. Should get 2 of the three of rice, beans and ugali and also sukumu wiki. Yum, but at least I’m not cooking for myself.

From the kitchen,

Paul and the ants

Joyce vs Paul II

2010-08-12T06:46:00.001-07:00

Aug 8, 2010 – Any of you who are ardent followers know that I’ve written about this before. The inherent differences in how Joyce and Paul handle things.

Well it has not changed and even more evident to me this time around. I think this is because I know that Joyce is different than I am, so this awareness being present I’m seeing all the time.

Those of you who have forgotten (due to age or drugs) – I know you all read it – I’m talking about Joyce = Yes, Paul = No. Joyce is ready to jump in an help out everyplace, especially if kids are connected. She actually seeks out opportunities. She is give first and worry later if it causes an onslaught of requests. I’m on the other side, say no first, review the situation, see if there MIGHT be a problem later down the road with more requests coming in, or the situation getting out out of control. Then if all looks okay, proceed with caution and never get to close to the edge.

This is why I’m sitting here in Mbita, all by myself in a 4 bedroom house and Joyce is in Nairobi with 24 8th graders. Okay, part of that is Joyce is a social butterfly and I’m not. I don’t lkie to be in group situations where I don’t know many of the players.

This time around, there is a difference. I just keep my mouth shut (most the time, occasionally I come out with some word of caution or concern) sit back and let her go. I’m just in amazement how she’ll jump from one thing to the next and in between ask 3 others if they need help.

Sitting alone in Mbita, '

Paul

PS. ever wonder why I use alpha to denote the month in my dating at the start of blogs and not just 8/12/2010. Because 8/12/2010 is December 8th here, not sometime in August. So to avoid confusion for myself, I use alpha, not numeric. Won’t you just sleep easier now that you no longer have to puzzle over this. BTW, I think their way make more sense.

A couple more items

2010-08-10T08:28:00.001-07:00

Websites that think you have all the bandwidth in the world. Should be a setting to set that you are limited and only load what you ask for and just minimal ads, videos and pictures.

I know google mail can tell when your connection is slow and will offer a more basic mail system.

I finally figured out my Zain modem. I was testing with the school’s phone sim and it worked. Figured out I needed to put my sim in the phone and send a special text message that seemed to register my sim as wanting to connect to the internet.

That wasn’t in the directions and I wasn’t told by the sales person. I saw a comment and thought it was for setting up to use the internet on the phone but decided to try it anyway.

First blog with ZAIN,

Paul

First World Electronics in a Third World Country

2010-08-10T02:03:00.001-07:00

Aug 10, 2010 – This topic is so popular that I had two sponsors fighting over top billing. Mbita Cybercafe is centrally located downtown right next to the stage. You can practically step off the bus right into the cafe. That’s about the best of it. The sign is much more impressive than the cafe itself – no coffee served.

Our other sponsor is the ghost business Island Le Group of Computers. They must of run out of money putting up the sign, for I could not locate them anywhere. But again, an impressive list of services.

And here is a picture of most the electronics I brought to use. Missing a few items, the camera used to take the picture, the electronic thermometer that had part of it strung through a window, and probably a few cables. Also, all my memory cards fit the slot in the netbook, so no extra card readers.

I did better this time round in reducing what I brought. I cut way back on the duplication I had last time – in case I lost or spoiled (Kenyan English for broke) something. I also downsized the laptop to a netbook and the video camera to a small memory card model and only one battery.

(BTW, if you look closely you can see the start of my slimming down figure in the laptop screen)

The best move I made was going to the netbook. The battery life is great – I can use it all I need at school without having to worry about plugging it in. And the adaptor is small, and the weight is vastly less than the laptop I had last time. It fits into a small backpack so I can carry it with little hassle. The laptop turned out to be to big for the backpack I had last time so I ended up needing a second bag to carry it in anyplace I took it.

Not without limitations and irritations however. The keyboard is small and taking a little getting use to. The screen is also small and some windows do not fit on it and you can not see everything and in some cases no way to make them smaller. No dvd drive for watching movies or doing back up or loading programs. However, the biggest complaint is the 1st world programs. Most think that the internet is a given and that they can use it anytime (or all the time) they like. They use it to check for updates or just download them, checking in with the mothership or whatever site is trying to track them. Programs seem to by default set to on the auto update, phone home, get me to the internet features. And some seem to have no way to turn them off completely without creating other pop up notices.

I’ve set up my firewall to ask me before any program tries to do internet activity. I was bombarded with notices telling me every program wanted access and wanted it now. It did help me figure out which ones where sneaking behind my back for access and I was able to turn most of them off. I wish the developers would be smart enough to know that you do not always have 24/7 internet going and shouldn’t even try to connect if it is non-existent. But it also means that some little process is running within my limited netbook resources soaking up processing speed and battery power. There needs to be a universal setting to say ‘cut all the unnecessary processes and don’t dare try to use the internet unless I specifically ask you to.

When you are using a mobile internet connection, the speed is relatively slow to almost non-existent. So having some program trying to download it’s 15 mb update while I’m trying to access mail is a no-no. And then, I’m paying by the mb, not unlimited, so I want to say what I spend my money on.

Speaking of price, I’m, probably spending more on the internet then some families live on.

The last item about PCs in general is that of standards for things like pictures, cables, videos. There should be one of each, not 50 like videos have. -Sorry you do not have the correct codec to view this video, click here to download-. What the heck is a codec (yes I do really know what it is) why did you not use one I already have, and what garbage software are you going to try and install with it if i click download. I’m having to jump through to many loops and hoops to get videos in a format I can upload (or watch for that matter). I’ve decided that PCs are not user friendly.

I’ve purchased 2 cellular internet modems for both the services that I know exists in Mbita. I think there are 2 more in various places in Kenya. One is not yet reached Mbita, the others web site does not seem to be working, but I hear the price is cheap. I’m using a modified pay as you go plan – I purchase a lot of MBs and use it until it runs out. The faster service here I’ve been able to work with, but it is more expensive. The other slower (2G) service I have not been able to get to work yet, but it is cheaper and also has some unlimited choices.

And on the subject of cell plans, it is almost as confusing here as it is in the US. The explanations are incomplete and poorly worded. They change with some regularity. And nobody who sell the phones can actually tell you the differences or much about any of them. They have top 10 friends plans, after hours plans, lower cost to same network, and special VOIP international plans. And they all have different codes for finding out your balance (since 90+ % are prepaid). Some offer ways of getting a small credit, up to 100 ksh, so you go in the hole, but you need to repay with interest.

All kind of phone choices. Most can be used for any cell company – just exchange the sim card for the one you want to use. Handy. We do this because it is cheaper for local calls on one company and better on another for international.

They even sell phones here with solar panels on the back for charging. Great idea maybe. The only time the phone isn’t in my pocket is at night when the sun don’t shine. It would take a change in behavior for me to be able to take advantage of this. But probably a slick idea. Not seeing many flashlights in the phones as I did last time.

On to other electronics. I’ll be surprised is anyone reads this whole blog. It’s more for me to document my annoyances than anything else. And I don’t care if the readers are bored crazy.

Batteries are another problem. I think most all my items take a different battery and therefore charger. Okay, a few use AA. but for some reason I decided not to bring the rechargables along. The nicer rechargers are small, light and have no cord, just plugs that swing out to plug directly into the socket. The worst is the one for my new video camera – big, bulky with a long stiff cord. It’s almost as big and heavy as the camera itself. It almost made me not buy the camera. For Joyce’s camera battery, I had to buy a new charger since the one it came with did not handle 220v. Fortunately a lot of electronics handle either 110 or 220, but you need to check. Once Nick burnt up his electric razor traveling out of the country.

Then there is the cables and plugs. firewire, usb (which has mini, micro, printer, extension and probably other plug ends) and electrical cords with funny shapes to plug into the little black boxes they come with.

The torches (flashlights) here with the built in solar panels are pretty neat. At least you recharge them during the day when you don’t need to be using them.

We use a lot of candles.

Joyce’s luxury item was her iPod and speakers. More batteries, cables and connections. Unfortunately her iPod is not holding a charge well, so we need to use it mostly with the docking station, whcih has to be plugged in to charge the iPod, since it won’t charge it when batteries are used. And the batteries don’t last that long anyway for the speakers. Should have brought those rechargables.

I also like the small digital camera I bought for this trip. It’s about 1/2 the size of my previous one, so it is very easy to carry in any pocket. It’s fairly quick in starting up to first picture as long as i don’t care to zoom in. But only 3x zoom and another battery type with its own charger. I should have checked the charger i got for Joyce’s camera. It had adaptors for other size and shaped batteries. maybe i could have just used that one. I tried a little bigger one with an 8x zoom, but the pictures at hi zoom seemed to be blurry due to shake, even with the anti-vibration feature.

Sorry for the delay, big business going on here in the managers office. Having some millet delivered and trying to find out a fair price. Willis is confirming.

Ee, joyce went off to Nairobi with her cell phone and US charger. Forgot the adaptor however so she can’t charge the phone. Another great aspect about foreign travel with US goods. We use a power strip at Steve and Judi’s that accepts multiple types of plugs, so did not even think about this when she packed.

Confirmed at 150 ksh per tin. This upset the lady because she got 160 last time. For 80 tins this is 800ksh - $10. A tin here is an official unit of measure. It’s a heaping full tin can. Looks to be one of those institutional sized sliced peaches cans that you see in Costco. It’s filled, and then you scoop double handfuls of the item on top until heaping and it runs off the sides. Very precise and widely accepted.

Well enough of this exciting topic. Thank you to Mbita Cybercafe and Island Le Group for their generous support.

Paul

PS. I know 3rd world is not the PC way of saying it, but I thought it made for a more catchy title.

Day One

2010-08-09T03:56:00.001-07:00

Aug 9, 2010 – This blog comes to you courtesy of Amazon Guesthouse, the only Bed and Breakfast i have seen in town. It’s the place for all your volunteer groups to stay.

Joyce left this morning for Nairobi with 24 8th graders for their 5 day tour. I’ll let her write about that. I’m just mentioning it because that means I’m on my own for 4-1/2 days with out my security blanket, which is my wife. She’s the social one, handles most of the details and cooks the meals. That last one may be the most interesting aspect as the week continues.

I’m currently up in the CGA manager’s office getting a few tasks completed. Not too many of them as I have to stretch them out for the week (and month and quarter). Since school is out I’ve only had a couple requests to spend money. Holiday pay, veggies to go with the maize and beans, gas for a stove. All answered with a no at this time, but I’ll talk to Willis about it.

Willis is a long time volunteer here at CGA. Has been around for quite sometime from what I can tell. He’s the number 2 guy in the manager’s office and my go to guy for questions. He does a lot around here, from paying bills, taking payrolls to the bank, trying to secure the title deeds for the land that was supposedly given to the school, organizing the secondary boys for the work days during the holidays so they can earn pocket money for next term, to making the a terms worth of purchases in Kisumu for class supplies and food.

But Willis does not show up much, not nearly enough. Yes he is a volunteer and he does have a remodeling project going in town, but I understood that he was going to be showing up at least a couple times a week. I’m lucky to see him once. It will probably get worse this month as it is holiday, so activities at school at at a lull. I’ve heard he was going to stop by today and that is one of the main reasons I’m hanging around, to hopefully talk with him about a 1/2 dozen items I’m not exactly sure how to deal with. most of the time my answer is ‘No. Not now. Let me talk to Willis about that.’ So if Willis is not around, the answer stays ‘No’. It’s not like anyone is going to starve to death. And I’m not sure I’m getting all of the story, or people are just testing me to see if I’ll give something up. Not my money I’m handing out, so I’m erring on the side of saving the money for a rainy day.

Somebody just showed up with millet, for the ugi (porridge). Why the heck today, school is not going, we are not using it for a while. They can wait until I get answers before they get paid.

While 90 percent of the students attend CGA for free, there are a few fee payers, kids who need to pay $60-75 a year to attend. That probably only covers the uniform costs, so it’s not like they are required to pay anything excessive. But about 15% are behind. I verified the list I was given by Steve to make sure it was up to date, in case payments came in I was not aware of. Seventeen still owe. If not paid by the start of term 3 the kids will not be allowed back on campus. I understand that works well for getting money coming in, or at least parents coming in with sob stories. My plan is to make the parents / guardians pay at least part of the amount and commit to a time to pay the rest (if I’m feeling generous that day). Probably easier to just to keep the kids out until payment comes in. People tend to take a mile when you offer them a week.

Well the battery is running low, so I need to go before my computer shuts down.

From CGA,

Paul

News Bits

2010-08-05T10:03:00.001-07:00

Even though Joyce is no taller here in Kenya then back home, she is easier to spot in a crowd. I think it is the pony tail. Maybe the white hat.

Price of avocado is up to 15 bob.

We will be seeing Vicki in one month.

There are a few value Village outlets here in Mbita. Came across at least two today. At least I’m assuming, but they had the Value Village tags on them. An they wanted to charge me more than I would have paid in the US. $3 for a Polo shirt. Outrageous!

Paul

Random Posts

2010-08-05T08:03:00.001-07:00

The people here in Mbita got all gussied up to go to the polls to vote yesterday.

I think I’ve noticed one thing that is more important to Kenyans than cell phones. At least half of them anyway. Hair. The women just have to have it done, and frequently. Even the lady next door who usually doesn’t have enough food to feed herself and 3 kids of under 5. Most fashion are cornrows with extensions. This is better than the wigs – which look like shredded hefty trash bags. And all short lengths in a style I’ve never seen showing to much forehead.

Had my first icy cold Stoney Tangewisi. De-licious.

Got my first sunburn today. The back of my neck from walking into and about town.

We are just finishing our first month here.

Looks like the new constitution is going to pass 2 to 1.

In Brief from Mbita,

Paul

Cockroaches

2010-08-04T23:08:00.001-07:00

Aug 5, 2010 – Talking the little critter ones here, not the public transport ones. They are throughout the house, coming out after dark. First major sighting ( more than a couple ) was one night I wondered into the room where the cat food bowl is kept. Can’t remember why I did this, probably to see why the frinkin’ cat was complaining again. Seems the cat likes to have someone watch while he eats. Anyway, I shown the light around and poof, several started scurrying away from the bowls. Of course the ones in the food bowl couldn’t easily escape. I left wondering if Brinkley saw these as special treats.

The next was the night we heard unfamiliar noises in the house after we went to bed. Like someone walking around looking for things – strange since both doors are locked form the inside. I walked into the kitchen, a cockroach heaven in any land, and flashed the light on the backdoor to make sure it was locked. It was. As I turned the light flooded over the counter and many small sized, like could hide under a dime, scattered for the recesses, and the several bigger ones did the twirl and spin and took off. I left trying not to think about where they explore, what they eat, and what they leave behind as they run about the food prep area.

It was Fenny moving around packing that was the strange sound.

The next night we had Joe over for dinner. We had more left-overs than we could manage and since that is about all the longer most will last without a fridge, we wanted to eat as many as possible. Joyce does the prep, including reheating the beans from the night before. At the table, where we eat by candlelight almost every night (how romantic) it is a little dim and hard to see details. This is probably good and with the need for reading glasses to see close up, I’m sure I miss many surprises in my food, which is just fine with me. (some of you have probably noticed that my spelling, or typing, is better this trip than last. It is not that I’m wiser, or took a remedial course, it that the program has a spell checker and points out my mistakes and I have a hard time not going back to correct them to get rid of the squiggly red lines.)

After the prayer Joyce removes the lid from the reheated beans and spots a huge bean, right in the middle of the pot on top of the beans. It only takes a moment for her to realize it’s not a bean, but a decent size cockroach getting it’s last beauty treatment. She spoons it out and dinner is great. I’m just now wondering about all the little critters I saw that were actually about the size of beans. A delicacy in some parts of the world aren’t they?

Joyce just showed me the half flattened gecko, the one she stepped on last night on her trip to the bathroom. Poor little fellow never saw it coming i’m sure.

From Mbita,

Paul

Greetings

2010-08-04T23:04:00.003-07:00

Aug 5, 2010 –

Hello.

Hello, how are you?

I am fine, how are you?

I am also fine.

The first day Intro in almost any language course. And here in Kenya is no exception. This is a exchange we get several times a day and a annoying number of times if we walk into town.

The fun thing is that I don’t think most of the people actually understand what they are saying. It was just rotely memorized, or they picked it up from others. So my side of the conversation doesn’t really matter, the response from the locals is the same. I hardly every ask how they are, probably because I do not know this person and I don’t care how they are, but if I say anything, and even if I don’t, I get the ‘I am also fine’.

The best are the ones that have a little understanding of it, or at least recognized that my response is ‘correct’. Often I’ll say something that is not relevant, such as Mississippi, or Awful, or Music Man. Then watch in enjoyment as they shutdown for a moment in a blank stare and you can just see they mind going into overload processing what I just said.

From Mbita,

Paul

Names

2010-08-04T23:04:00.001-07:00

August 5, 2010 – Most individuals here have as one of there names an English type name. Joseph, Paul, David, etc. Besides this they will also have 2 or 4 Kenyan names. It seems they mix and match these to a certain extent. CGA has the kids write there sponsor every term. One of the items that must be checked is that the kid uses the same names that the sponsor knows. Otherwise the sponsor starts asking what happened to the kid they thought they were sponsoring and why did they get a new one and nobody told them.

The spell of some of these English names is interesting, showing that they are not generational names passed on from their forefathers. Steve got a child named after him – Stevan. Joyce is often spelled Joice. Their is Mavine (Marvin I think was the goal). An of course the pronunciation isn’t always there.

One girl had a child and named him Joseph. She was calling him Jeff one day. Joe inquired and said he thought that child was Joseph, why are you calling him Jeff. Oh, that is the nickname she says, the short version. Of course Joe disagrees and says it is Joe. No she says it is Jeff. Joe asks how she got that. Well you remove the ‘os’ from Joseph and you get Jeph. Of course. That’s the way it works.

Well time to move on this morning to hopefully get something a little productive done. Blogs aren’t productive. They are a way from me to escape where I’m at. They are also a good way to make others think I’m doing something worthwhile when I’m feeling anti-social.

From Mbita,

Paul

One of the hardest names for these folds is Joe. Usually takes our friend several tries to get the person to understand it. They use Joseph here, but not Joe.

Five Bucks Flushed Down the Toilet

2010-08-02T03:58:00.001-07:00

Aug 8, 2010 – Literally, five dollars flushed down the toilet. Well not exactly literally – it wasn’t five dollars, but a pair of kid’s shoes. And most toilets don’t flush here, and are pit toilets anyway.

Joyce had heard that our Byrone could not go to school because he did not have any school shoes to wear. So she enlisted the help of a few people to get him a pair. Mama Anil next door was going into town so Joyce gave her 400 ksh to buy a pair of kid shoes. Once those were acquired, she brought the to school and sent them with Junior (I think) to deliver to Byrone. Deed done.

Heard a couple days ago from our kids that Byrone’s shoes were gone. What? The story was that a neighbor of Byrone, a kid actually, not sure how old, but somewhere between Byrone and a couple years older, was jealous of his new shoes. So she took them and threw then down the pit latrine, the long drop, the outhouse.

Five dollars flushed down the toilet.

Joyce bought low fat milk. First of all I didn’t even know that existed here. But it was Kisumu, which is a bigger city. But low fat, come on, we aren’t watching our weight here. Yes we are dieting, but for the little amount of milk we use, I think we could go with the fatty stuff. And I’m pretty sure the Mbita diet plan calls for the whole stuff.

Speaking of milk, here in Mbita is the first time I’ve seen bubble gum flavored milk. They also had chocolate, strawberry, banana and a couple others. But bubble gum, yew, I can’t imagine. Only here in Kenya.

The referendum is coming in a couple days here, on wednesday. Watch the news for it. Suppose to pass and not cause chaos. Please pray for that. We are staying put until we see for sure that one side doesn’t get ticked off when they lose.

Closed the schools books for the month. The first try for me. I seem to be off a few shillings, maybe a few thousand, okay 37,000 ksh. But that is only the first pass. I need to go back over things and see if I missed anything or not, or double counted some expenses. Stay tuned for the exciting updates on the continued saga… Hope I don’t cause you to loss to much sleep over this.

Did I mention that Kisumu must be the NGO (non governmental organization – usually a non-profit) capital of Kenya? There are so many there, in so many various states of existence. It probably has to do with the fact that it is a bigger city, in a province with server poverty and HIV/AIDs problem. But it seems like every mom and pop humanitarian effort that thinks it can do good sets up in Kisumu. This isn’t all bad, it does bring a lot of outside money to the area, but a lot of it probably ends up going to the wrong people. I don’t think you can go a block and not run into one, or at least someone that wants to have one, or asking for money for one (which probably is a scam). Some are just briefcase NGOs – paperwork filed but if they do anything it is to collect money. Some blew out faster than they blew in, but still have internet sites and signs around. A few are making a go of it, but it would be interesting to see for how long. It would be interesting to see a study done on the status and longevity of NGOs in Kisumu. And probably 80% of them have AIDs in their name or at least their mission statements. I think this is overkill. Yes it is something that needs to be addressed, but I see it as more of a symptom of a problem – poverty. And poverty has many more symptoms – disease, malnutrition, prostitution, malaria, etc.

There is little coordination between the NGOs and not even easy to find ones that may exist, and particularly what they actually do. I don’t think it is the most effective way to help.

And the abundance of NGOs brings a lot of white people with it. Everyplace you go you see them, particularly the nicer places and in the nicer vehicles. With so many whites around you sure don’t feel out of place, or at least as much out of place. One reason why I like Mbita better.

Enough rambling on that subject.

And happy birthday Jon, only a few hours late (at least from your perspective)

Time to go do something productive, maybe,

Paul

Note on Videos and Pictures

2010-07-31T02:23:00.001-07:00

Sorry about the low res videos. While we have internet, it is not real fast and we pay by the kilo-byte. So smaller pictures and low res videos

Michael Jackson Dance Party

2010-07-31T02:21:00.001-07:00

There is currently a Michael Jackson dance party happening in the living room.

See it here

http://picasaweb.google.com/MaiersInAfrica/DanceParty

DJ PDaddy

A few Thoughts

2010-07-31T01:02:00.001-07:00

T-shirt of the day “Tell you boobs to quit staring at my eyes” At least it was worn by a male.

Morgan has a couple of favorite Luo phrases. “You are cheating me” and “What is wrong with you”. The latter seems to bring laughter from others around when she uses it on somebody.

School has closed for the term. So our schedule will change some. Will spend some time up at school, but not as much. Mostly getting things ready for next term which starts Sept 6th.

The Kenyan referendum on the new constitution is next week. It’s a big deal. It is suppose to pass, but will be close I think. People don’t think that there will be any disturbances from it, but are concerned it might since public reaction is not always what is expected. Lots of rallies both for and against going on. I quit reading the paper because so much of it was on the topic and all seemed to say the same thing day after day.

Our house guest Fenny, who was volunteering at school, left this morning. She was a delight and we’ll miss her. It’s always nice having someone local around to ask about the Kenyan prospection. And she actually laughed at my jokes and sarcasm.

Slow day….

I think we will get down to the lake finally today.

From lazy day in Mbita,

Paul

Life in Mbita (repeat)

2010-07-29T09:08:00.001-07:00

Not sure if this made it or not, so may be a repeat.

School is closing tomorrow and we just got here! I am having so much fun with all of my projects at CGA…go figure! It has been a busy week as the school prepares to close down for 5 weeks. The teachers discovered that Paul and I can use a computer 10-key to add up all the student grades/scores and take 15 minutes to do what would take them 4 hours to do. We have many requests to help! Judi has set up several projects for me to work on so I will be at school doing work even when the kids are not there. That is a good thing because there really is not much to do around this little town except play with kids and APPARENTLY, Mavin thinks that we live to far for him to come to visit every day. “It is very far” he told me when I asked him why he had not visited recently. Oh well, I set up a play date for Saturday when they can stay for a long time.

So here is an update on all of our kids: Junior (age 12) attends CGA so I get to see him most school days except I have to be cool because I embarrass him when I talk to him. He did not volunteer that info, I asked him…and he said “yes”. Unfortunately, he has not been in school all week. “father” told me that he burned his leg last Friday, with hot oil, so I went to see him yesterday. OHMYGOSH…his poor leg looks like someone took their hand, after it was dipped in acid, and slapped his shin. There is a terrible burn, literally the size of my outstretched hand. His mother did not take him to the doctor, which I guess is like her, but a “nurse” neighbor gave him something to wash it with. It actually seems to be healing quite well and does not seem to be infected…but ewwwww. Poor kid! He is the sweetest thing.

Mavine, Eunice and Michael are siblings whose mother “went away” in February. Apparently, she was very sick with boils all over her body but would not accept/admit that she had AIDS. People say that she went to a hospital in Kisumu…and I suspect that she has died. Well, these kids have been on their own until about 4 weeks ago when a nice African/Canadian couple (Paul & Erin)asked them into their home. Michael, the eldest – at 12, only just moved in with Erin and Paul a few days ago. He did not want to leave his home and their things (what little they had). I think he was hoping his mother was coming home. He had been doing odd jobs for someone who gave him food, but I am so happy that he decided to go with his bro and sis. I had a nice visit with Erin and Paul 2 weeks ago and they are here working with orphans and widows. It seems that they are willing to have the kids with them, at least for now. They have a nice place with a front yard that sounds like our house here last year. Apparently, that is where all the kids play instead of my house…that is toooo far!!!

Magdeline is no where to be seen. No one knows where she went but Byron is still with his elderly grandmother. This is his 2nd year at Star of the Sea Nursery School (we pay $50 a year for him) and he is actually able to talk with me a little bit. I have only been with him 4 times but he looooves me. When I went to visit Junior’s house yesterday, Byron was waiting outside for me when I came out. He was barefoot (his shoes fell into the pit latrine) but he took me to his boots (full of holes) and put them on then we walked hand in hand to visit Mavine & Eunice, Only Mavine was home with the twin boys that Paul and Erin are adopting (Paul’s brother died so they took the boys in) and the housegirl. Byron and I visited for awhile and then I took him home. He will be here on Saturday when the gang comes for a visit. I think we will play BINGO. I have prizes! Anyway, I visited Byron at school one day (to pay his fees) and when I came in he smiled so big and just looked around and smiled at the other kids like “Oh, she is MY friend”. A group of our kids have come to the church we are attending and Byron was all snuggily with me, but apparently he was biting and hitting the other kids when they kids went outside for the kids lesson…He is a wolf in sheeps clothing! His uncle came to CGA and met with the orphan overseer and me to discuss, again, the possibility of getting Byron into CGA next year. Someone has to provide the mother’s death certificate and Byron’s birth certificate to get him admitted,, His uncle said that he would take care of it….I can only hope and pray that he will. We could use your prayers for this one because Byron will just be a lost little boy if he does not get into this school. He can eat 2 meals a day there, be well cared for, learn well and not be “caned”. I don’t think he eats much as his little belly is pretty distended and hard. PRAY HARD!

well, that is enough for me right now…I will keep you posted on the other kids. These are the most interesting stories, so hopefully, this will keep you for awhile. You would not believe the stories that we hear everyday! ORITI…until next time

It’s Been a Few Days

2010-07-28T23:47:00.001-07:00

Jul 29, 2010 – The first thing I had to do today when I started up my laptop was use the tweezers from my pocket knife to remove the pieces of lake flies that littered my keyboard. Wasn’t to bad. I had to leave it on last night because the backup I was doing took foorreevveeerrrrrr. And the flies had plenty of time to find my lit screen.

I find that I’m already talking to the locals with a strange accent – the way that the locals speak English. I’m wondering if it is going to show up in the way I type soon. I don’t remember talking that way the last time I was here. But then most of my talking was to my family that was along, this time it is mostly to locals.

This place is really very beautiful, particularly where we are located. The school itself is a bit up the hill from the lake. From certain places you can look out to the lake and see several islands. Even though we are in a drier season right now, the trees and cacti (which are as big as the trees and whose bases actually look like tree trunks) are still green. So as you gaze out you see a landscape covered with trees, water, rolling hills. From a distance the homes do not look that impoverished. For me, when I pass by the little shacks people call home, it definitely puts the scenery into second place and hard to see its beauty.

I’m getting spoiled living at Steve and Judi’s. It is so far above our place and time at the Catholic parish a year and a half ago. many reasons for this, but main seems to be the tea kettle shower. It is so nice to be able to bathe with water pouring out from above rather than from a pitcher. It is definitely one of the pleasures of the day. The others are a constant power supply to keep the laptop going. I spend more on internet time that families spend to eat. I think the nice kitchen setup and the slightly more variety of meals is a big plus as well.

Last night I went out onto the enclosed veranda, with the sun about 45 minutes from setting. It was peaceful and calming, a slight breeze was blowing though the room. It is the brightest spot in the house. The sky was starting to glow the burning orange of a setting sun. I was not hot. I thought, this is delightful, tropical, peaceful. Like vacation times. I would not mind being on vacation here if I had no responsibilities.

Living further from downtown Mbita and the many more shops, tin houses that line the road, and all the people scurrying about is a much different feel. I do not think that you get as true of sense of the real life around the area. We are removed a step or two from that. It is not on my mind as much, it makes me forget how bad it actually is for some. I need to make more trips into town to be reminded.

I don’t remember all that I’ve written about, and do not care to review what I’ve said in the past. And I don’t read what Joyce writes. So if I repeat myself, deal with it.

Should be some new pictures up at this time. Link should be in the upper right someplace.

It is closing week here at school, so teachers and students are wrapping up for the month long holiday.

What are you doing there?

2010-07-28T23:46:00.001-07:00

This has been a common question from my family. What are our day to day duties, particularly at the school, Christ’s Gift Academy.

Joyce – she is loving it. She is in the admin building, helping out where asked and volunteering to help even when not asked. She is planning and organizing and helping kids and planning music – all things she loves and excels at.

Helped teachers add and average grades for the end term – using the computer to do it quickly, not a small calculator that most the teachers would use. She is organizing for a Christmas pageant to be put on at the end of school for the year. Has already held auditions and awarded parts for the roles. Unfortunately we will be gone by the time it is done. Organizing the classroom supplies, including inventory the store room and help determine how much to order for term III. Tutoring some kids in multiple subjects. Helps a couple of kids with exams by reading them the questions. Reads stories to the young ones, helps in the lower classrooms if needed. She seems to be busy all the time, but always has enough time for one more item.

I’m in the manager’s office. This is a non-scholastic area. I’m responsible for the the school property and money matters. I collect fees from the few that are fee payers here. Most are sponsored by people from the US. I also got to send out notices to the ones that were late. All fees for the year were to be paid by now. If they are not cleared soon, the kids will not be allowed back term III until paid up. I get requests for anything that needs money – more soap for the kitchen, more food, special food for special meals, help for widows ( they have about a dozen widows close by school that they help with expenses and food), etc. I have helped with some of the grade adding since I have time and still posses my mad 10 key skills and have the time. Any school property that leaves the school grounds also need to have permission, which I grant with a gate pass. I also need to pay the day laborers and others that are on a cash basis. I will be completing the financial summaries for the months that end while i am here – adding the receipts and checks, filling in the expense spreadsheet and Quickbooks accounts. And reconciling the bank account and cash on hand (other than payroll, about half of the expenses are cash based so plenty of receipts to write). Soon I expect to have to be listening to many parents telling me why they can’t pay the fees. I’ll need to decide whether to let them slide for a while or keep the child out of school – pray for wisdom and discernment on this front. I don’t keep as busy as Joyce having time to write blogs like this one.

Both of us come about 7:30 each morning and join the staff in morning devotions, prayers or chapel time (that includes the kids). We finish somewhere from 3:30 to 5pm. August brings holiday and the schedule will be much lighter.

At the home, there are a few projects and tasks to be done, but nothing daunting. Pets to feed, water tanks to fill (turning on the valve when the city water is released) watering the garden on the weekends, a few minor home repairs. Joyce cooks, I wash the dishes. Bed time usually between 9 and 10.

From CGA Manager’s Office,

Paul

Mbita Visits Kisumu

2010-07-24T07:52:00.001-07:00

Paul and I just returned from a two-night visit with Morgan in Kisumu. Joe, our neighbor and fellow mzungu (he has worked at CGA for 7 years) decided to drive his vehicle to Kisumu to watch some football matches and we asked if we could hitch a ride. It was so nice compared to public transportation. We left on the 11am ferry, on Thursday, and were so happy to see Morgan again. She actually had a bed available for us (she has opened her apartment to many people, on and off) so we stayed with her for two nights. There is such a huge difference in our quiet life in Mbita compared to Kisumu. Kisumu is a busy, noisy town full of people and Mbita is quiet and small. I have decided that I like the life in Mbita better. I guess God knows where we need to be, and also where Morgan needs to be! It is a great break to go to Kisumu, but as we drove down our bumpy, dirt road to our house it felt good to be home again.

We had a nice afternoon and evening at Morgan’s place. Kelsey made a great meal for us. We had “mexican night”, but sadly, no margaritas. The food was good and it was nice to catch up with Kelsey and Abbey and Morgan. Morgan’s apartment is just adorable! No wonder she wants to stay in Kenya for another year. We did buy her ROUND trip airline ticket last week to come home at Christmas-time. She will be home the 28th of November and back to Kenya on January 12th…a good long time!

I was so excited to be able to go to Kisumu on Thursday because that meant that I could go with Morgan, and her baby classes, on their “tour” (field trip) on Friday. It took two loads in a matatu to get all of the kids and teachers to The impala Park, but all you have to do is throw 20 kids and 4 adults into the van and off you go! The Impala park was a 15 minute drive across town but then we had to wait for the same driver to go back to get the second load. Don’t ask me why we didn’t just hire 2 matutus….oh, life in Kenya. The 3 hour tour consisted of walking around a fairly nice park and looking at some animals in cages. We did see cheetahs, lions, hyenas and a few other animals but the best part was when Morgan and I got to feed the “blue-balled” monkeys. I don’t know what their actual name is, but yes….they had florescent blue balls! There were about 10 monkeys just running around waiting for people to feed them bisquits (yes, “BISQUITS…that is how you say it). Morgan was doing her job organizing the bisquits and jewiss (yes, jew-iss) while the teachers were letting the kids look at the boats that were being loaded up with, way too many, bigger kids when she called the teacher to tell her that the monkeys were going to steal all of the bisquits if we did not come soon. I knew that she was feeding monkeys so I told the teacher I would go and help Morgan. We had our own feeding session before the kids came and scared them all away. See the picture page to see what I mean! Anyway, the kids were adorable but making them stay in a line, and “march, march marching like a “solja” was sometimes a lost cause. Passing out the jew-iss and bisquits in any kind of an orderly fashion was also quite a challenge. Morgan was awesome trying to keep the kids in order. She knows quite a bit of kiswahili and Luo but I did come to realize that she was using the same phrases over and over. “Sit down, make a line, don’t hit…” were some of her common words. The kids and teachers do love her though and she is really at home in that place. After the tour we were back at school for a lunch of rice and cooked veggies and then the kids went home. Well, at least I assume they did. Kids just wander around and people pick them up when they want to. The teachers don’t leave until the kids are gone, but Morgan can leave when she wants to so we decided to go home. Spent the afternoon reading while Paul was at football (soccer) with Joe and another guy, also named Paul. We all went to The Simba Club for an Indian dinner buffet and had a nice evening. All you can eat for 500 ks (about $6.50). The place was filled with a bunch of mzungus and Indians. Not too many Kenyans, but it is kind of a Friday night get-a-way.

Paul and Morgan and I went into town to get some errands done on Saturday morning…got a photo printed, more malaria medication, bought a new Kenyan flag for CGA (we will give it to the school when we leave as theirs is in tatters), and sat and had a nice cup of coffee. I actually had my first COLD Stoney Tangawizi. I have tried 3 other times for a “stoney” but this was my first success. Stoney Tangawizi is a ginger soda made by Coca-cola (nothing like ginger ale) and is DELICIOUS. You either love it or hate it. Anyway, then we said goodbye to Morgan and were off to Mbita.

There are no kids at our house today because I told them we would be gone so we can just hear kids in the area playing and the sound of waves hitting the shores of Lake Victoria. The house is quite, oh wait…I do hear the coo of a ringed-neck dove…no babies crying or donkeys making their obnoxious noises right now. A breeze always comes to the lake in the afternoons and you almost think you are at the ocean. I plan to go and get Byron and bring him to the house tomorrow. I have not seen him in awhile because the kids told me his shoes were lost in the toilet. I had a neighbor buy him a pair of shoes when she went to the market a few days ago, and Junior delivered them for me. He said that they fit fine (who knows???) so I hope to see him tomorrow.

Life is pretty simple here and there is really not a lot to do, but it is really nice. I will write again soon and tell you about our life in Mbita. Hey, I am not even sweating right now!!!

From Kisumu

2010-07-23T23:41:00.001-07:00

07-24-2010 – This blog brought to you by Dr Saba Saba Aziz, for all that troubles you – From bad luck to court cases to vomiting.

Sitting in Morgan’s dining room at here dining room table getting my breakfast ready. I’m having nescafe instant coffee and toast with grape jam – that has whole grapes in it.

It’s cooler here in Kisumu, which is nice. Kisumu seems like such a big city after time in Mbita. Of course for Kenya Kisumu is a large city – number 3 or 4. Malls, movie theaters, high rises (5 or 6 stories), real mechanics, etc. But I’m liking it more in Mbita, the more rural setting, the slower life, the lack of constant noise.

Abbey is here with us this morning. She is one of the strays that Morgan has picked up. I not talking cats, or a goat, or a chicken, but a real person. Abbey’s plans on Rusinga didn’t pan out fully so she came back to Kisumu and needed a place to stay and Morgan was more than accommodating. Morgan has picked up more than one stray person (besides a couple of cats) along the way. They come and stay for various lengths of time for various reasons.

I’ve had some really good ice cream 3 times while I’ve been here. There is a little ice cream shop in the Mega City Nakumat mall. They make their own ice cream and yogurts on-site. It’s 100 to 150 bob per scoop – quite an indulgence. Especially when think that that amount can feed a family for a day or more in Mbita.

I’ve also had pizza, a double decker cheese burger (that actually wasn’t too bad meat consistency wise), Chinese food and partook in an Indian buffet. The things you can get in Kisumu.

I spent most of yesterday at the high school soccer tournament. This is the provincial level, one step from the nationals. Some decent play, some not. Joe does a lot with soccer at CGA / Mbita and came to watch the matches. So Joyce and I hopped a ride with him to get into town. He has a nice vehicle. I one point when we passed a matatu crammed with bodies I thought how blessed and fortunate I was to be sitting in the passenger seat all by myself – with air conditioning blowing! I didn’t think I’d ever experience air conditioning in a vehicle in Kenya.

One match was stopped when the fans stormed the field. We think it was because a team had a goal negated because of some foul. The fans didn’t like the call, doesn’t matter if it was correct or not, and charged the refs. Over the next few minutes groups of fans would suddenly take off running in various directions for reasons unknown. Kelsey says this is not uncommon.

Saw one match at Moi Stadium, the big municipal stadium in town. Not a bad stadium. The match was so popular (the home team was playing) that we had to sit on random concrete blocks on the edge outside the seating area which is packed. I little warm and I was told the smoke was not bad that day. You see, the stadium sits right next to the town dump and they are constantly burning the garbage. I felt like a hot dog being roasted over a campfire, but told I was lucking because there were not black billowing smoke flowing through the stadium.

Signing out from Kisumu,

Paul

Remember Dr Saba Saba Aziz is from Uganda, so you know he has to be good!

This and That

2010-07-20T23:58:00.001-07:00

July 21, 2010 - This blog brought to you by Holiday Inn at Rusinga. They have a decent chicken dinner, clean rooms and sometimes music blaring while you eat.

Just some tidbits today.

I got to attend my first PTA meeting yesterday. It only started 47 minutes late. Fortunately I didn’t go until Mr Gwala came and told me the meeting was starting. I got to sit up front and had troubles keeping my eyes open – fortunately never for very long and I didn’t do any head bobbing – I think. My only part was introducing myself. Joyce lucked out and thought she was told she need not go so took off before they come looking for her.

First PTA meeting I’ve attended in a primary school where they discussed giving pregnancy tests to the girls.

Meeting seem so much longer when everything needs to be translated. So I only catch about a fourth of what is said. No wonder I was nodding off. And the main speaker would change back and forth from English to Luo, so the translating just did the other. But strange the speaker would say one sentence in English and the next in Luo.

Dirty money. Here is a newer bill compared to a well used one. This is by far not the worst bill I’ve come across, it is only the most disgusting one I’d actually put into my pocket. This is a 50 bob note, the smallest they make. It is a very common one in the little road side stands and probably never gets to a bank to be taken out of circulation. The proper way to carry is to fold it at least 18 times it seems and stick it in the corner of you bag.

Joyce is loving the kids. I’m still growing accustom to being here and the role I’m playing at school. Joyce is thriving on the kids, I’m still in the twitching stage. Mostly so far I just make myself scarce.

We have 2 dogs, Bell and Boots. Pretty good dogs, but in Mbita dogs are usually just roaming free and the most affection they get is a beating (unfortunately just like to many kids). Most kids are scared of dogs, because they main purpose is as guard dogs. So when Father took off running and the dogs took chase thinking it was a grand game, terror was in the face of Father. Father would not stop but fortunately ran by me so I just grabbed him on the way by and Joyce then consoled him. Mavine seems to like the dogs – go figure.

Here is the result of Joyce’s shopping trip. The produce, not the kids. Total cost – 100bob, about $1.25. Look at the size of those avocados!

Here’s Morgan arriving for her first visit to Mbita since we have been here. The kids were there to greet her.

Just went to open the maintenance shop – lovely smell of the toilets up there. I don’t know if that is worse or not than the wafting smell of burning hair that was passing through my office yesterday. I didn’t want to go see where that was coming from.

Here is his royal highness Brinkley. This must be on the the most spoiled cats in all of Kenya. His bed even has a mosquito net. I blame some of this spoilness on a previous visitor to the Cochran household – Donnie Jean. This cat insists on fresh food and water. Her won’t eat the last of the food in the bowl – must have something newer. And in this land where all the other animals poop where ever they are standing, this cat insists on having a potty box! As far as I can tell even if it is outside it will go the the box. At night we need to bring it inside for his night time use.

Enough already,

paul

Living Conditions

2010-07-19T09:15:00.001-07:00

7/19/2010 - Even after just a week here in Mbita, and the problems with the plumbing, I already know that our living conditions are going to be much much nicer than our last time here.

Staying at Steve and Judi’s home is a real blessing. It almost seems decadent compared to most home around. I have put up pictures of their home ready. It has

- 4 bedrooms of nice size with comfortable beds. Last time while we had 3 bedrooms, 2 of them were the size of small walk in closets.

-a shower room, which I call the ‘tea kettle shower’ after the modified tea kettle that is used for the shower head,

-an inside toilet with commode. Sure the flush system are pails of waste shower water dumped directly in to the bowl, but still more convenient than the long drop. However, there is a charm to using the long drop (again, that’s a pit toilet with just a hole in the floor rather then a seat) and just seems more efficient in many ways.

-The kitchen has a gas stove and oven. It is efficiently arranged with every close at hand (since it is only about 6 by 10 feet. It has a small working faucet with a plastic bowl catch basin. The built in sink is covered up as it is not plumbed and water dumped into it just spills onto the floor. The wash station is actually outside and quite efficient with its separate wash and rinse bowls. To conserve water the once the wash water is done, the rinse water it cycled in to the wash water and fresh water is used to rinse.

-The dining room has a nice table that can sit at least 9, probably more.

-The living room is spacious, with 2 love seats, 4 other chairs and a coffee table.

-And the veranda is great and screened in well enough to keep out all but the smallest lake flies.

-There is running water inside. This operates from a raised tank outside and gravity provides the horse power. Best of all the city water which comes 2 or 3 times a week can be used to fill the raise tank.

-We even have consistent power thanks to solar panels. We have one light in the living room this powers (we use a lot of candle power besides) and it is used mostly for all the electronics that we Americans seem to prize so much.

-Our meals will be of more variety since we have a better setup. We have a lady that comes in 3 times a week to clean, do laundry, do some food preparation and run errands. The house is nicely and tastefully decorated and well maintained.

-And it’s winter time here, the coolest months, I think last night even got into the low 70s. In fact Joyce was setting quite a walking pace to school today. I commented on how fast she was going. Her response was that it was because she was not sweating – she must be acclimating to the weather. I pointed out that it was the coolest morning we had had so far and a very nice cool breeze was blowing.

Well, it’s about time to go see a feeding program on Rusinga Island.

From CGA,

Paul

First Saturday part II

2010-07-17T06:48:00.001-07:00

7/17/2010 - Joyce told the kids yesterday that they could come back today. After a little give and take, 10 am was determined to be the time they could come. How they know the time I’m not sure, I’ve seen no clocks in most of the homes of theirs I’ve visited. Of course the cell phones everyone have do tell the time, but these kids don’t have any. But somehow, they are suppose to arrive no sooner then 10. And just as planned, they are rattle the gate with a stick at 9. It is nice having a completely fenced, with an 8 foot high speckled with cactus fence, yard and a gate the has a large lock on it. At least they can’t get to the front door without us opening the gate.

I told them they were early and to come back in an hour. They quieted down, quit rattling the gate with the stick, and wondered away. Not far, just sort of out of sight. We did finally let them in about 9:30 when Fenny was leaving to get her hair done (after all, it was a very plain doo and she’d already had it for two weeks. This one would be much fancier and good for at least a month.)

Joyce is taking seriously the job description Steve outlined when he asked us to come - ‘Joyce can just love on the kids’. She has great patience with them, can mediate the little skirmishes with tenderness and keep the gang of twelve mostly civilized.

We did send them away for a while midday. I tell you, it is like herding cats trying to get all 12 of them out the gate at the same time. A couple go out, one heads for the swing in the yard, causing a few others to divert. Get them focused to head to the gate and half the ones that already left notice not everyone is following, so they sneak back in as I’m scurry the stragglers toward the fence. And 2 duck into the outhouse for a quite release….

They are back already. A trickle into a flood. Joyce just shooed them out of the veranda to go play in the yard and blow off steam.

Mavine is still active as ever and is the first one to try and climb anything that looks like it can be climbed, as in the horizontal pole in the veranda for handling plants from. I’m sure he could had made it up to the rafters, but was stopped by Joyce.

We are also awaiting the arrival of Morgan. She runs on Kenyan time. Her get up early to come started at about 9:30 when Joyce called her. She eventually got herself to town and on a matatu. Of course she got the one which broke down on the way. Finally they got a new one, I mean another one, to pick them up. She’s on the ferry as I type (at 4:45pm), of course it was 45 minutes late leaving. I expect we will be seeing her about an hour from now.

All in a relaxing day in Mbita.

Paul

First Saturday

2010-07-17T06:20:00.001-07:00

7/17/2010 – This is the first Saturday that we have been in Mbita without Steve and Judy. Of course we only had one Sat with them.

We got to sleep in, which means it was almost fully light out, so must have been around 7am. That’s really good for me as most of the time so far I’m waiting the first signs of dawn which happens about 5:45am.

I don’t really know what time I got up – it didn’t matter, but by the time I complete the plumbing repairs it was not even 8am.

That’s right, I’ve already started my home repairs. Our shower, which is a tea kettle with gravity fed water was no longer working. This was the second time, the first being when it stopped completely the night before Steve and Judi left. That night Steve and I spent an hour looking into various possibilities – tank outlet clogged, shower spigot blocked (didn’t hold out much hope for this one as the only other functional part of the gravity fed system, the kitchen faucet, also was not working), the junction between the original plumbing and the gravity system, etc. No luck. Steve needed to be packing, so i told him I’d handle it in the morning. He left me with the advice, if I call in a plumber, do not let them put in anymore galvanized pipes. Just go with the plastic pipes, don’t bury it just run it right along the wall and just punch a new hole through the walls where you need to get access tot he shower room.

This morning only the shower was acting up, the kitchen was only a little slow and the shower had some pressure. Some being enough to have running water if you removed the riser pipe from the spigot. Not enough to get up the riser however. The kitchen only a little slower.

Steve and I had pretty much concluded that there was a clog someplace (what deduction ability). How to find it and remove it was another story. There is no flush value, there are a number of turns and elbows in the 25 or so feet of pipes that exist and no easily removed sections.

But the city water was flowing, the riser pipe in the shower comes off easily as it is just 2 pieces of plastic pipes pushed together and I have a hose and outside city water spigot. The hose happens to fit the plastic pipe the the riser was connected to. The hose is long enough to run from the shower to the outside city water spigot. So I back flushed the system hoping to push the clog out of the way. Of course the spigot didn’t fit the hose, so i just had to push the hose up against the spigot as tightly as I could, wrapping my hand around the ‘connection’ the best I could to not have water squirting all over me.

Hey, believe it or not, it worked. I took a great long shower afterwards and then headed up to school just a couple hours late.

But then Friday morning brought the problem back, so this morning I tried the same fix again, only flushing the system a couple times with letting the water run in the shower for a while in between to clean the clog a little extra, hopefully.

We’ll see how it goes and stays going over the next couple of days. the pitcher bathing is just not as satisfying as a tea kettle shower.

Reporting from Mbita,

Plumber Paul

Wow, so much to Say

2010-07-16T03:32:00.001-07:00

july 15, 2010 - This blog brought to you by BIMOSS Hotel. With conference facilities, bar, accommodations and restaurant. This is a sign that shows how Mbita is growing. It is actually located outside of town, letting in coming visitors know what is available. And it’s a fancy sign, looks like the text and pictures were printed on a vinyl sheet that is stuck to a metal sign. A picture is worth a 1,000 words, but I think the actually place would be described with a different 1,000 words.

There is also the Amazon Guesthouse bed and breakfast on the way into town. I’ll have to see if I can get them to sponsor a blog.

Steve and Judi have been gone for 2 days now and all is going okay. Hit up by one ‘neighbor’ for some rent money which we did not give, but did give some leftovers today.

Mbita is growing by leaps and bounds. It’s is getting more and more people and the streets are busy. I think the piki pikis (motor bikes) have tripled since we were last here. They are for hire and the driver will take us from here to town for just 50 ksh ( about 70 cents). Need to cross the streets carefully now because there are so many of these thing zooming by.

I walked to town today, thinking I should have shelled out the 50 bob (that’s slang for shilling) to ride at least one way. It rained a little last night which mostly just causes the humidity to go up up up. I can’t believe I’m drinking enough water to replace the sweat I lost today. I got back to the school and I felt drenched from head to toes. I swear that when I sat down I felt like I sat in a puddle. Yeah, visualize that.

I like to think that it is just the Mbita diet hard at work. That I’m actually just feeling the fat melt away by the pound (or liter). ‘Yeah think of them as fat modules’ Joyce says.

Well Joyce is waiting to watch another episode of the 4th season of the Tudors I downloaded as a special surprise for her. I tell you this being high tech in Mbita is just so strange. Cooking done over a wood fire by someone holding a cell phone. Oh, that lady we gave some leftovers to, she has a cell phone! Really, cell phones seem to be more important than food to some around here.

For Bimoss Hotel,

Paul

P.S. Click on the link in the upper right corner to see the pictures we have posted.

Kenyan Speak

2010-07-16T03:31:00.001-07:00

Most of the people here in Kenya speak English. However it is there second or third language. Most have their native tribal language and Swahili before learning English. Even grade 2 or 3 kids may be trilingual.

So, since it’s ETL (English as a third language) and not even ESL (English as a second language) I must give them credit for how well they speak. But it is still frustrating at times on their lack of precision. Not necessary on the pronunciation, but on the generality of the word used or the meaning. Q: Where do you live? A: Just there. Q: How far? A: Not far. These may not be the best examples, but give you a little of the feel. Even asking very specific questions tend to solicit general replies.

At first I thought it just must be there level of English that is the matter. Then it struck me the other day. How precise is there native language? I asked Steve and he said that Luo, the language of the local tribe, is simplistic and general. In some cases, one Luo word might be used for different English words. For example, love, friendship, respect all have the same Luo word associated with them.

It just is frustrating for me, the more analytical type to not get more precise answers sometimes.

Another aspect of Kenya speak is that they tend to go on and on, repeating in just a slight variation the same thing over and over and over and over. This can make what could be a 30 second conversation last 5 minutes. I don’t know if this comes from the culture, the lack of knowing precise English, or they just like to hear themselves talk. This is by no means universal, and it may be that it is actually just a few, but they make such an impact that it stands out.

Mr Gwala the headmaster here at CGA is a great example. This morning he had something to tell the staff and request that they stay after chapel, he had something to tell them, it would just take 3 minutes. Five minute pass, then ten, at about 12 minutes after his intro into the topic in general terms, he finally details what the topic is. Fortunately the pace picks up at this point We pass 20 and 25 minutes, finally at 29 minutes he finishes.

Breaking news break – Joyce just found me hiding in the manager’s office typing this. She just got asked to present awards to seventh grade for the results of the Hexagon Tests results. What an honor. I probably missed out on my opportunity to do the same by slinking off to hide. Of course she was not told ahead of time, and when they motioned to her, she thought it was the person next to her. Oh, the reward was one small piece of candy.

Back on topic now. Mr Gwala is probably the extreme. I think anytime I’ve heard him address a gathering, the minimum time has been 10 minutes. But that was a very short one for him.

Well so much for now. I’m going to try and post these blogs now. I still need to write up something on the state of technology here and in particular my use and perspective of it.

Reporting from the managers office,

Paul

Various Thought and Items

2010-07-12T09:57:00.001-07:00

July 11, 2010 - Just a few pictures and a couple unrelated items.

Joyce has gone out and seen our kids. They even found us in time on Sunday to go to church with us. Here we see them entering the church with Joyce. It definitely was a significant increase in attendance.

I met the kids for the first time today on the way to church. First I came across Byron and Eunice. It appears that Eunice has replaced Magdaline as Byron’s escort, bringing him along with the group and carrying him when needed. The the boy’s greeted me later down the road. The first words were from Father (pronounced Fatha) “Hello Paul, you are fat”. Thanks kids, glad you noticed, I’m here for the Mbita diet.

Here’s Judy in the kitchen preparing the traditional Saturday Noight dinner – pizza. That’s traditional for Steve and Judi’s household, not a locals tradition. That would have been ugali which I haven’t had the pleasure of yet.

Here is Steve burning the garbage. this will be one of the household chores I’ll be responsible for while they are gone.

I’ve already had a chance to use a long drop (pit toilet) a couple of times, Joyce has nearly fainted from the heat walking around the roads to town, and stubbed my toes a few times.

I have to get my Kenya legs back. I find myself stumbling quite often walking the paths and roads. This is like developing sea legs, with time you get use to the motion, or in this case the loose dirt, holes, stones and goats.

From Mbita,

Paul

Blog 1 From Dulles, Washington DC

2010-07-10T02:33:00.001-07:00

This is the first of hopefully several comments on life I’ll be making while we are away, again.

A little background for those who do not know. A few months ago, while Joyce, the wife, was away at a women’s retreat with church I got an e-mail from Steve. That’s Steve of Steve and Judi, friends that we made in 2009 during our last journey into Kenya. I’m sure you’ll hear more about Steve, and Judi, along the way here, but for now all you need know is that they are 2 of 3 Americans that manage Christ’s Gift Academy (CGA), a primary school in Mbita Kenya. This e-mail, the subject of which was not expected, asked if Joyce and I would be interested in coming back to Mbita for a couple months and watch over CGA while they came to the states for a couple months. An interesting invitation that had me pondering fond thoughts of the last visit. Not thinking things through completely I forwarded the e-mail to Joyce, as it said Joyce could just love on the kids. And Joyce loves to love on the kids, so I thought she’d get a kick out of the request.

Fast forward a couple days to Joyce’s return and her looking over the e-mails from the weekend. I think I remember waiting for the reaction to come. maybe a should say waiting for a reaction, because as I mentioned I didn’t think much past this point. Joyce comes out to the living room with a broad smile and wide eyed look on her face. ‘OMG, really, could we can we, why not?’ or something like that came from her lips. It than struck me and had not planned a comeback for this inevitable response of hers. I just assumed that she would say ‘what fun that would be’, we would politely decline the request and life would continue in Beaverton, OR.

The fact that this entry is coming from out nations capitol should be a clue that that is not how if went down.

I did not have a valid comeback for the why not. God was directing us again and there would not be much I could do to misdirect myself. I even tried praying for God to put up the roadblock tat never came. So less than 3 months later I find myself on a 4 day journey to arrive back at Mbita.

Just Joyce and I this time, no kids jumping on our band wagon this time. Of course Morgan is already in Kisumu Kenya and is, needless to say, quite excited we are coming.

Here’s the first 2 pics of the trip. The first in PDX the second in DIA.

We’re out of here,

Paul

207.5

2010-07-10T02:32:00.005-07:00

July 10, 2010 - This is not the temperature, but might be the combination of temp plus humidity. Not a radio station number. Not the number of hours we traveled, although it seems like it. Far to small for the number of potholes encountered on the way to the ferry. This is my starting weight. While I have fluctuated a few pounds around this, I’m calling this my official starting weight for the Mbita diet.

Our last visit here proved to show that the Mbita diet quite an effective weight loss program. I lost 45 pound on it last time. Unfortunately I gained most of it back. So I’m hoping it will be as effective this time around. However I have less time here, and starting a few pounds lighter then last time. I have no way to weigh myself here, so the results will have to wait until my return to the US.

Breakfast is calling,

Paul

Mbita

2010-07-10T02:32:00.003-07:00

July 10, 2010 – We have made it to Mbita. The last 24 hours have been quite an adventure. Part of it has been due to adjusting back to the ways of Kenya. Part of it had to do with seeing Kenya the eyes of a first timer – a 19 year old young lady. That in itself is a long story that may get told.

I’m finding that there is really no end of stories to tell here. I have a feeling that the latest is the one that will be told.

Right now Joyce and I are trying to get indoctrinated into all things CGA and maintaining the household we are going to be living at. Big items being water management and food preparation. Steve told me that the city water has been pretty consistent lately. This means that it flows every two or three days. There are a couple of water tanks to keep full, the critical one is the roof one that is used to power the tea kettle shower.

Morgan’s Apartment

2010-07-10T02:32:00.001-07:00

7/8/2010 - We have made it to Kisumu and Morgan’s apartment. It’s great to see her. Morgan’s working in the kitchen making chili for dinner. She was super excited about her gifts, particularly the enchilada sauce, little G’s gifts (this made her cry), and the dark chocolate M&Ms.

Well its now 9pm and dinner is over. My mind is working on about 3 cylinders and I’m not sure how many I started with. The chili was delicious and nobody went away hungry. Rachelle, a friend we made in preparation for our last trip here came over for dinner with her 2 darling daughters Zawa and Sophia.

The bus trip from Nairobi was a tiring 7 hours. Fortunately there were 2 rest stops for getting out to stretch the legs. This was appreciated as the leg room is less than economy class. The highlight of the trip was the herd of Zebra we saw about half way. Part of the trip was even in the fog so you could not see very far up the road, which made the passing all the more exciting.

After one point of piles of trash along the road Joyce turns to me and we have the following conversation.

Joyce: I just saw a garbage truck. (Implying that at least an occasional effort was made to keep things tidy.)

Me: (Thinking that was unusual based on past experience) Was it moving?

J: No.

Me: (After some thought) Did it say ‘garbage truck’ on it?

J: No.

Me: So it really was just a ‘truck of garbage’.

J: Yeah, I guess so. (a bit deflated)

I know, not the most stimulating conversation, but it does fit the need here of not assuming to much on appearances nor basing those assumptions on our US backgrounds.

Sorry, no pictures this time as I’m to tired to fuss with it. I need to clean off my camera chip so I don’t have a bunch of old stuff on it. But in the next week, if all goes well, I should have a number of pictures up for browsing.

Tomorrow we get to go to Mbita and see Steve and Judy. Looking forward to it. Only one more bus ride to go. Hoping to actually sleep most the night but expecting to get a good 2 hours in and then toss and turn for the next 5.

Good night. Time for my first ‘shower’ since leaving home.

Paul

Heres Testing Windows Live Writer

2010-06-04T17:23:00.000-07:00

This is my first blog from my little netbook. We will see how well I do on this smaller keyboard. The letters don’t seem to be so bad, but the backspace key is a lot smaller and I keep hitting the equl==al sign instead.

This inserts a picture and having to center it, or add left justified. I guess this is not to bad, just can’t put the text exactly where I would like it.

This is with Derek and his friend Pete. We met Derek while we were in Mbita working at CGA.

Now is the time to try posting this blog, or publish, as they say in the industry.

Paul – From Bvrtn

Pot Luck Ramblings

2009-07-30T13:47:00.000-07:00

July 30th, 2009 - Some pictures posted earlier this week at http://picasaweb.google.com/MaiersInAfrica/COCampPix20090726.

Been quite a while since I wrote anything and many thoughts have gone through my head in that time. I actually find myself during the day thinking in terms of blog stories. How the current situation is mildly entertaining to me and what spin I can put on it.

I told my dad about the pictures I posted and he wrote back commenting on how some looked like parts of Oregon, which is true. His last comment was ‘don’t get lost’. Unfortunately I was delayed in seeing his e-mail and couldn’t take his advice.

Yesterday I went wondering and got disoriented and lost within the first 90 minutes and spent another 5 hours trying to find my way back to camp. After talking to a couple of people I now sort of understand where I was and how I ended up there. But at the time I was completely turned around.

The plan was simple enough – hike up to the ‘Top of the World’, take a right to hook up with a trail I thought I heard about and wonder out to one of the camp sites used by the kids. I did make it to the Top of the World okay and I did find a trial, but probably the incorrect one. I followed the trail for a while, then just started cutting through the pastures and tree stands in what I thought was the correct general direction I wanted to go.

I kept going up to the peaks of the hills and looking for rock outcroppings to climb up as they generally give the best vast views as you can see over the trees and into the various valleys. I kept doing this, going peak to peak hoping to spot something I recognized. I knew I wasn’t to far lost as I kept seeing signs for the National Forest Boundaries, which Sanborn land butts up next to. About 10:15 I looked at my watch and thought, boy, this is going to easy, I’m going to complete my agenda and be back at camp in no time. I sat down to some snacks and tried to call Morgan about 11:30, but realized that I had no cell service. I had a couple of snacks while sitting at the corner of the National Park fence, next to one of the boundary trees. About this time I thought I should start heading back, may I could catch the end of lunch. I got up and headed uphill to a point I thought I’d get a good view of the camp and be able to meander my way back to camp. On my way I ran into a herd of elk, about 200 females and yearlings I finally determined later in the day. As I approached they would see me and take off and I could watch dozens through the trees making a get-away. I’d run into this herd many times during the day, pushing them one way or the other.

At the time I thought, this is cool, another herd of elk, different from the one we see driving home occasionally. And this one is just over the hill from camp – I’ll have to ask others if they have seen it. In fact I think I’m pushing right towards camp, wouldn’t it be neat if they ran right through camp.

Oh, by the way, all morning, since about the time I started my adventure I’d been hearing thunder from many different directions.

As I headed up to a ridge, I felt the wind pick up sharply, a promising indication that a storm was just about to sweep through the area. I’d already been hit by a couple small rain showers, nothing much and nothing to hide from nor put on my rain jacket. This one was more serious and the thunder had grown louder and the dark clouds were directly overhead. Fortune had it that the rocks here were good size and I quickly found a nice over hang to hide from the large drops of rain. I did find it odd that this spot was close to a set of rocks I recognized from climbing over them just a few minutes prior. I didn’t realize that I had backtracked to the same point I had previously been.

As I was hanging out I decided to call my son Nick and see how he was doing. Might as well make use of the time. I caught Nick, it was about 1:30pm – I’d definitely missed lunch, but could raid the frig still, and I mentioned to him I wasn’t quite sure where I was, but thought at least part of camp was over the next ridge, I thought I had just spotted a piece of a road I knew, but I had thought this about the last 3 ridges as well. ‘So’ he said, ‘does this mean this is the last time I’ll be hearing from you?’ referring to the fact that I’d probably was more lost than I knew and would never be found. As I chatted with Nick the hail started, being the size of marbles. It came down with such force that Nick mentioned he could hear it over the phone. I was glad to have the rock overhang and only got hit by a few rebounding hail stones. We were fortunate as other areas in the county got golf ball sized hail that day.

I had misinformed Nick, the camp, nor any thing else I knew, laid over the ridge I was making my way to when I was caught in the brief (15 minute) storm. Well, not a problem, there was another ridge and what looked to be another good overlook just over there. I’d make my way over there and have a look-see, surely I was close to discovering where I was. This happened a few more times, and I kept spotting sights I seen before and thought I was moving away from. Remembering about seeking shelter and being surprised to see some of the rocks I had previously past over, I was beginning to wonder if one leg was shorter than the other and I may be walking in circles without know it. I’d also wish I had a tracking unit on me so I could see the route I was taking – it would be quite entertaining to see the zig zaggy, curvious line I was meandering.

Shortly after this I went to wet my whistle again, from my 2 liter “camel pak” and came up dry. Oh c--- I thought, not good. But that meant I had already downed 2 liters of H2O so I should be well hydrated. And I’m just about to be back at camp anyway. I also thought about whether I’d do another Survivor application, to add to my half dozen or so previous ones. I’ve told myself a couple of time that this was the last app I’d do for the game. I’ve thought about this a few times in the last 8 months of life – six of those in Kenya and a couple in Colorado or wondering the country. I’m not sure I want to be placed in a semi desolate place for 39 days, I think I’m starting to appreciate a nice bed and food variety more than I realized. And being stuck in a strange land, at close quarters with a same people and being extremely bored and frustrated at time, I noticed how my attitude degraded and how hard it was not to bite off some one’s head all the time.

Lunch break --- (almost) Another storm is passing though, this one came up quickly and did have the hail with it. Not being native Coloradoans, I don’t know what normal is, but from the comments of the locals, this is not it. This morning I put on a long sleeve t-shirt under by long sleeve shirt and topped it with a Sanborn sweatshirt Ashley had given me. The most I’ve put on in my time in Colorado, and this being the end of July. This morning was actually a little like Oregon as we woke to a fog filled view and chilly weather. It wasn’t that crisp Oregon chill, letting you know it was going to burn the fog off and have a nice sunny day. It was a damp chill, letting you know that you better dress for another day of crappy weather that you are already tired of. Great start for all the over night trips that headed out this morning – that canoeing should be a blast.

Joyce has been having a pretty good time leading the crafts. Earlier this week she drove out to an over night event that was on camp property. She was glad the site had an old cabin, the Tie Cabin, at it as they needed to retreat to it for crafts as the rains came. A number of the crafts that she has introduced are quite popular, such as the mask making, the gourd bird houses and bowls and the Fimo clay covered light switch covers which she just introduced yesterday for the first time. She has mentioned that she is ready to be home, as am I. With just a couple weeks until camp is over, we are starting to wonder more and more what the future holds as she has no job and I haven’t had any significant work leads since our return.

We may be having a full house. Ashley and Travis are coming back to Oregon when the fall school weeks program (outdoor school) is done and bring along at least one other camp friend with them. Not certain yet if they and dog Kevin, will actually be rooming with us, But Morgan, Nick and possibly one other stray will be there.

Lunch is over – another exciting meal – turkey or veggy wraps, grilled cheese sandwiches, plain potato chips and corn chowder and tomato soup. Not as good as it sounds since it is mass produced, but at least there is variety so I’m not bored with eating it, as I was in Africa, so I’m eating too much of it. I am up 15 pounds from my post Africa weight.

Back to the lost story. I kept looking for Pikes Peak, knowing that this was east from any location I could possible be at. I never was able to spot it until late in my hike. So I was using the sun as my direction indicator, know that it rose in the east and set in the west, give or take a few degrees, and knowing it was morning or afternoon, I generally knew what direction I was headed, when the sun wasn’t covered up with clouds. I did find my short leg caused problems, as I seemed to veer off course constantly and upon the next directional check was often traveling 45 degrees off my intended route, usually to the east.

I did finally stumble along a “major” dirt road that was well maintained that was lined by fence. And to my delight from the fence hung signs stating that this was outdoor education activities and cautions no hunting of small kids were permitted (or something like that). There were 2 versions of the sign and one plainly stated that this was Sanborn property. Great, at least I hadn’t wondered off the 6,000 acres of ranch land, but what was this road I did not recognize – it looked to wide to be a camp road I didn’t know about, but it could be, but I wasn’t aware of any county road in the area I thought I was traveling. I decided to follow it a ways to see if it lead to a spot I recognized. Along the way I found a camp trail that looked fairly recently marked with nice orange sun with rays placards in the trees and skinny dead trees in the open meadows. Taking a bearing with the sun I headed off in the direction of the trail head. I soon realized that this was a horse trail because of the horseshoe prints. After not to long a time I came upon the end of the trail at a dysfunctional spring tank. No sign of recognition of the area however and a little further one I found a fire pit that looked as if used in the last couple of days. Great, pretty certain now I didn’t head towards the trail head. I reversed course and figured the other end would be my saving grace.

I easily followed the suns and streamers for quite a while until I hit the top of a hill. No further orange to follow, but hey, there is the elk herd, so I rambled toward them. I thought this was a strange place for the trail to end, but maybe I was at a well known spot I didn’t know. The elk soon sensed me and took off. But I got a good look though a break in the trees and realized that it must have been close to 200 in the herd.

With the elk no longer distracting me I thought I maybe should go back to the spot I lost the trail and search again for its continuance. I didn’t, and wondered a while until I came upon the road I didn’t recognize again. And I spotted a big grey van going down it. It pulled into a side road that was gated and stopped. I considered whether or not to ask it where I was, being I really wanted to pull myself out of my situation by myself. But my growing concern that I’d still be wondering well after dinner won out and I approached the van full of boy camp campers. I asked if the camp was the way they had just came from. Of course not, that was the direction of Lost Lake they were at. They other way was towards camp – passing by Witcher Ranch and Leo’s maintenance sheds. They asked my if Vulture rocks was just up the road. I had to hold back my laughter as I knew nothing of the rocks they spoke and they never would have asked if they knew how long I’d been wondering without a clue as to where I was. But Witcher Ranch, no way I thought, by my astute calculations I should be well on the other side of camp from this place. Witcher ranch is half way back to where I’m living. I’m on the other side of camp from there. But it was Witcher ranch. Fortunately not long before I drove out to it out of curiosity of the Withcer Ranch rocks used for rock climbing. The ranch and rock hills did indeed seem somewhat familiar. I head down the road toward the ranch and decided it would be best just to head back home for the day, call camp to leave a message for Joyce I was at home and not wait for me at camp. I knew from driving by the cutoff for Witcher Ranch daily about where the road from home to camp lay. Know the raod wasn’t the most direct, or adventuresome route back I angled off to a point that at worse should take me to the road I drove daily. Maybe I would still head for camp. As I worked my way through the trees, looking for rock bluffs to check my bearing, I wondered how I could have missed camp during my wonders as I was sure I had been on the other side of camp from Witcher ranch and not having passed over any dirt roads didn’t leave a lot of area to slide around camp and end up here. I must have gone in more circles than I could even imagine.

Anyway, I should be seeing signs of familiarity on one of these bluffs soon. I’m feeling pretty good, not noticing having run out of water a couple hours before. I still had snacks, good thing I raided the Out Camp food snacks before I left. But point after point I did not spot anything that sparked memories other then ones from earlier in the hike. I finally broke down and got out my binoculars. Maybe some of all those building I saw in the distance were really camp buildings I didn’t recognize from this distance. Maybe there were many more building around camp than I imagined. Nope, didn’t recognize any of them, not even close to similar architecture. May I find a place with cell reception and try to track down Travis and see if he can tell me where I’m at based on what I can see. No, not time that that yet. I have to be coming to the road soon.

More meandering and I look around, actually beginning to worry I might not make it anyplace by dinner time. How could I be wandering about not recognizing anything still and not keep wondering for a very long time. Glad I got that last call into Nick. Not really concerned about never making it out, but it does cross one’s mind. I decide to head up another hill and soon spot a crest – I see the top and sky through the trees and its not rocky here, so it is probably not a rock outcropping, must be an open field, should still give me a good view. As I approach I see a larger and larger ridge line with sky above it. Strange for this area, having such a large open area on the top of a hill. Hadn’t seen many of these today. But I had seen one, at the beginning of my trip, at the Top of the World. But that was nowhere near me nor the path I was one to my commuting road. I emerge and scratch my head as I’m within 25 yards of the stump and log that marks the top of the world. What the h----, how did I get here, boy maybe the sun doesn’t set in the west around here.

I’m glad none the less. I see parts of camp and, yap, that is A-bluff I’ve been up several times. Camp is just down the hill – just keep A-bluff on my right. I reward myself with my Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, knowing I don’t need to keep them for supper in the wild.

Suddenly I flash back to the night before, when the topic of a Sanborn ranch map come up and Travis hands me one. A topographical map with landmarks hand written in. If dawns on me that if this map is oriented in standard fashion, north being at the top, then home and Witcher ranch are south, not east from camp. Have I really been off 90 degrees all day on which directions spots are really laid out around camp? A talk with Lottie and looking at her accurate map I have to conclude I was totally disoriented most of the day with nothing being in the direction I expected or headed. Maybe I should carry a compass and review the map more to know where the major landmarks really are from each other.

On to other items – that was really a longer story than I expected.

Joyce’s mom and sister were out last week for 4 days. Joyce had 2 of the days off. I was elected to pick them up in Denver. Fortunately the flight was not in to early, so I didn’t need to get up early. Met them at the airport just fine and got to see Bob and Robin Fossum from home who were on the flight, coming out to vacation with friends.

Since Joyce had to work the day of arrival, I took my time getting back to camp. We stopped for lunch and drove through Garden of the Gods. Garden of the Gods is some spectacular rock formations. Susy had a good time taking many snaps. That night Joyce, mom and sis all got toasted on gin and tonics. I’m sure the elevation didn’t help the impact in Ruth and Susy and at least in part attributed to the rough night they had.

We spent most of the next 2 days off camp seeing the local sights. Hit Cripple Creek gambling town for the 49 cent breakfast – which Ruth bought for us all with the winnings she had already amassed before we even got to the table. After breakfast and a little more gambling, we head to American Eagle Scenic view point. The only way to it was through mining operations – watch out for the huge truck, which the signs warn you do not stop.

The next day it was off to Fairplay to visit Kent, a cousin of Joyce and Susy. Great views that day of the continental divide. We made a side trip to take a closer look at Horseshoe Mountain, where Joyce had her overnight trip. We were hoping for some good wildflower viewing and did get some.

That night was dinner at home with some other camp parents. A good time.

Ruth’s sister happened to be coming into the area to visit her son, Kent we had just visited. So after breakdfast we took off to head back to Denver so they could have lunch together before catching their flight. Having plenty of time, we drove through Manatu Springs and Garden of the Gods again. I must have missed a sign as we didn’t hit the road to the freeway when I expected to. I didn’t manage okay this time, I just headed downhill and kept the Rockies on my left and eventually met up with I-25.

On the way back I decided to stay off the main road. Unfortunately, the road from point a to point b I was planning on using was closed for construction and I got an extra 90 minutes of scenic tour.

I have been sign up to help lead a Saturday Special – an activity that happens for 3 Saturdays. It’s a pottery art special. The first Saturday I pulled out skills of 30+ years ago to help the 1camper who signed up to throw pots on the wheel.

A Nija squirrel just snuck into the camp store – probably out for another Snicker bar.

Enough already I quite for today.

Over and done from Colorado,
Paul

July 4th Reminded Me of Oregon

2009-07-06T15:07:00.001-07:00

July 6th, 2009 – My highlight of the 4th of July was a beer. I was in bed before the sun went down. But I was reminded of the 4th in Oregon as it did rain. If it wasn’t for the lightning and thunder accompanying it, it would have been like a typical Oregon 4th.

The weather here is about the same each day. The sun is out, it is warm. The clouds come, it cools off a little. The thunder clouds come and so does the rain. Almost everyday is having some rain, but it usually passes kind of quickly.

Yesterday (Sunday) was a pretty mellow day around camp. Not many activities for the kids and lots-o-meetings for the staff and counselors. I, not being either of those, wonder about doing as I like. I did do the first pottery firing in the kiln. I set it and then went to see what else was going on. I came back about an hour later to popping and exploding sounds emanating from the kiln. The final results – the majority of the pieces exploded and there were 1,000s of shards to be cleaned up. A few survived and a couple just blew the bottom off themselves. I think we will have to up our quality control and criteria for what gets fired. I we’ll need to make sure it is very dry before it goes in. And maybe a waiver for the kids to sign stating they won’t be upset when their piece becomes pieces.

I also took a hike up ‘A’ bluff yesterday. It’s the highest of the ‘A’, ‘B’, ‘C’ bluff threesome. A bluff here is a hill that has a rock outcropping on it. I missed the cutoff and went a little out of my way to finally get to the bluff. But the last part of the hike is more of a choose your own route rock scramble. Having not come in the correct way, neither did I find the easiest way up. I just made sure that anything I went up I also could made it down. It’s surprising how much easier it is to go up a bunch of rocks then down. But once at the top the view was great. Unfortunately I left my camera in my pack that was back in the car in the camp parking lot. I’ll have to climb it again to get some shots. Once on top I did locate the easier routes up and down to the top of the bluff. In fact I was real close to the place when I first approached the rocks, but I went counterclockwise rather than clockwise to find a good route up. And being a little impatient, I didn’t circle far enough and scrambled up a route that would have caused my damage then needed if I misstepped.

Today was another choose my own adventure day. I chose to go around to the other activities and snap some photos. There were many all day events for the campers, so I thought it would be a good time to get some candid photos as an excuse for going on my own little nature walk. Of course a number of the events were off site and others I had no idea where they were taking place, so I just did the ones I could find. This including getting some pictures of 3 girls on top of ‘A’ bluff, the girls trying out for the inter-camp rodeo coming up on Saturday against the boys camp, and the high rope challenge being lead by Travis. Along the way I also picked up a couple nature shots of animals and flowers.

All this took longer than I thought about, so I missed lunch back at camp. This just meant I got to get my own from the leftovers in the frig. No great, being that it is left over camp food, but the selection is not bad as there is usually stuff from several meals waiting to be eaten. And if it’s not finished by Sunday, it becomes part of the $1,000,000 buffet for Sunday lunch – yummm!

Well, I need to go make a phone call.

Reporting from The Nature Place (www.thenatureplace.net)
Paul

Summer Camping

2009-07-03T14:52:00.000-07:00

July 3, 2009 – I’ve been at this stuff about 5 days now. Seems longer. I already took my first day off. Went on errands with Ashley and Travis on Wednesday. Quite a rare occasion for them to both have the same whole day off during the summer. We headed to Colorado Springs (referred to the locals here as The Springs). We stopped by The Poppy Seed clothing store Manitou Springs on the way for Ashley to get a dress for an upcoming wedding she and Travis are headed to. And as the name implies, it is a hippie type store.

As Joyce pointed out to me, unlike Oregon where the entering city signs list the population, here in Colorado they list the elevation, which seems to be a much bigger number than the population. Thus you get “Entering Denver, Elev 5280”. Yeap, they list it as a mile high exactly. Here at camp we are living at 8500 ft, well over a mile and a half high.

Put the following coordinates into Google Maps and you’ll be taken to the High Trails camp where Joyce and Ashley are working.
38.890125,-105.328193

These coordinates should show you where we reside.
38.856555,-105.302176

If you hit the satellite view and zoom in you should be able to see the buildings. And no, there isn’t snow here at this time.

It really is beautiful country out here, at least in the summer time. I can’t vouch for winter, but it’s probably okay if you like snow. See some pictures at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/MaiersInAfrica/CO_20090703#

I haven’t been overly busy so far. I’ve driven for 3 trips so far. It’s a nice way to get to see the country side. Yesterday’s took me through part of the 2002 Hayman fire area, which was CO biggest fire and started by a US Forest Service employee. The undergrowth is coming back and without having to compete with the trees, the wildflowers are remarkable and everywhere. Quite interesting views as you look out over valleys to the rocky mountains on the other side and just see thousands of burnt tree stumps dotting the hillsides. While I think the pickup spot was less than 30 miles from camp it took 1-1/2 hours to get to due to the using paved and unpaved county roads and the numerous curves going through the back country.

Joyce got to experience her first overnighter this week, a 3 day trip. She enjoyed it – the views were amazing, the kids great and plenty of counselors to help. She did say it was cold and she did sleep most of the 2 nights inside one of the vans and not her tent. The art projects were great and I got reports from some of the other counselors on the trip that they loved having her along.

Yesterday I also finished hacking the bark off a log to be used for a totem pole. The girls should be working on it tomorrow. The plan is for the campers this session to start it and the ones from the second session to finish it. I also started looking into the pottery situation. There are a couple of throwing wheels and at least one usable electric kiln, so I’m trying to pull up my memories of 30 years ago when I did some potting in my mom’s studio in Eugene. I’m rusty, but still better than the campers. And there is no telling what type of clay is actually being used. There seems to be many sources and a lot of them are from years past and mixed together, soaked and reused. I’ll have to treat it all the same and hope it works the way I fire it. I need to get a couple of pieces for the kilns before I fire them up, but hopefully by the second session I’ll have it all figured out.

Today I actually got to help a couple of the girls throw pieces on the wheel. We did okay, but I think they had fun doing it.

Reporting from Florissant (elevation 8166 ft)
Paul Maier

Rocky Mountain High

2009-06-30T15:38:00.000-07:00

June 29, 2009 - Sandborn's Western Camps. I'm back at camp after a 3 week shift to Beaverton. I went back there to spend time with my dad and mom when my mom went onto hospice care. Then yesterday I found myself transported back into the wilderness of Colorado. It was surreal. All my attention and thoughts back home were just there, back home, paying attention, for the most part, to want was going on in the moment, and maybe figuring out the next days events.

When I had first got here in early June, Joyce and I had just completed a 10 day road trip to get here. Since this was our goal, it was very much part of our daily being. This time, it was an immediate change, with my thoughts still back at home on the events of the day. And on the trip from the airport to camp, we got to hear Michael Jackson from beyond the dead (the radio station had a guest who could channel people from beyond). So when I woke up Sunday morning and looked out the window and only saw hills and trees, it didn't really seem real. Now, after 2 days, it's almost real.

I'm currently inside with the longest thunderstorm of the season still flashing and thumping outside. We're living in a 5 bedroom home with Ashley and Travis.

Cont'd 6/30/09 - This is not a luxurious 5 bedroom house, but a utilitarian one. It was originally built to house research students at PPRS (Pikes Peak Research Station). Four bedrooms upstairs with a bath and a third, with the third crammed into a space not much bigger than a shower. Three of the 4 rooms have sinks in them, which helps a lot.

Downstairs has a living room, and kitchen big enough for 1 person at a time, a bathroom with the bath portion converted into laundry room, and a nice size bedroom that Ashley and Travis share with Kevin.

Of course the yard is fantastic, about a thousand + acres of wilderness. It comes complete with wild -flowers and -animals. There are only 4 types of trees that grow on the property - Blue Spruce, Douglas Fir, Ponderosa Pine and Aspen. Check out www.SanbornWesternCamps.com for more details about the camp itself.

The last 2 days I've been driving for trips. Monday was for Harvard/Yale. This is a 4 day adventure with hikes up two 14,000+ foot peaks - Harvard and Yale. This also includes a backpack hike into the campsite. The drive was nice, I got to drive one of the mini-vans, not a 15 passenger one (which I could if I wanted to since I did go through the 1 day van driver training course, and passed I'm assuming since they are letting me drive.) I only had 3 others with me, all counselors. Getting there wasn't too much trouble until the last 3 miles. Here we came onto a short uphill span that had an exposed drainage pipe across the road. About half was exposed, but what made it tough were all the potholes on both sides of it. We tried the mini, but it looked like it was going to bottom out. The 15 passenger van had no trouble - wider wheelbase and higher clearance. So the plan was for it to drop off their load and come pick up the people and gear from my van.

Shortly after they took off a Chevy Aveo or Traverse came by and passed the obstacle without much problem. If they could do it I could do it. And we did, with little effort and no scrapping. Of course the 1st van did not know we were coming, and while I wasn't surprised to meet it coming back the other way, I was surprise since I was concentrating so much on the worst part of the road we had encountered. It was uphill, windy, dropped off steeply to the driver side into the river below (not it'll kill you if you go off, just I'll really mess up your day and maybe you kind of treacherous) and a ill placed big rock that forced you to the downhill side of the road with not much extra between you and the edge, especially from the drivers point of view. Anyway, Beth was not about to back the van up the road to a spot I could pass, so I got to back down the worst spot of the road. I thought it was bad enough going up, it was worse going down - always being afraid that I'd forget about the front tires location as I concentrated on back end not hitting the uphill side of the road, running off the road on the downhill side and missing the big stone. It sure seemed to me that I got the front tire right on the edge a couple times, and I did pretty much back over a good portion of the large rock. But I made it, found a spot to pull off the road. We then piled into the van and let the other driver take up the rest of the way.

The drop off was a breeze. The group invited the drivers to share their lunch of bagels and fixings. So after dining we set off back to camp. Since the vans were not needed until the next day I was told I could take a scenic route home, which I did. We both stopped in Buena Vista to peruse the outdoor equipment store. We then separated and I headed to Fairplay, home of South Park City - a reconstructed mining town of the late 1800's. I didn't go in, but I think I visited it about 10 years ago during a business trip to Denver. I did take advantage of the cell service to call my dad (camp has very limited cell access) and treated myself to a great 2 scoop ice cream cone.

I proceeded the round-about way back going through Jefferson cut off to Tarryall, past the Tarryall reservoir, into Lake George and back to Florissant.

Today's trip was much less exciting, taking a group to hike the Oxford / Belford mountains. This group gets to summit both peaks in one day (after getting up at 2 am) since the peaks are only about 1.2 miles apart across a saddle that only drops them about 700 feet. This group does get to hike an additional 10 mile to get to their pick up spot.

The other driver on this trip was Ashley, so we got to site see a little together. We walked Buena Vista a little looking mostly for good chocolate, and had lunch in Hartsel at Dorothy's Homemade Tamales. Not a bad place, but Dorothy was out so we did not get to meet her.

Joyce left today for a 2 night camping trip where her group will be doing Picasso art. Even though she loves camping she wasn't very excited. Part of it I think is the pending cold and probably rain. But Ashley did set her up pretty well with camping gear, there are 4 or 5 other counselors on the trip and I did remind her she could always sleep in one of the vans. This will probably be the only time in my life that I get to see her actually wearing a full size backpack. They are really doing car camping, so the pack is mostly for show and a vehicle to contain her stuff to get it to and from camp.

Well, off to work on an-other project - cleaning the bark off a Ponderosa Pine log so the girls can use it to create a totem pole.

Reporting from Florissant,
Paul

Onward

2009-05-27T09:42:00.000-07:00

Written and posted 5/27/2009 from Vallejo, CA

At this point this this blog is turning into more of a journal for myself and a few others that are still interested in what the heck Joyce and I are doing.

What am I doing in Vallejo, CA? Joyce and I are visiting Joyce's bestest friend from middle and high school Leslie Barnes (Anderson). We are working our way slowly to Colorado where we will be hanging out for the summer.

We started with a 2 day drive from home, heading down I5 and cutting over at Grants Pass to 101 on the CA coast. We travelled down the windy road to Little River and stayed at Stevenswood Spa Resort. Terribly overpriced I think if you have to pay the normal rack rate. Of course I'm cheap. But we got the internet special same day deal for $69, a $250 savings. They said we got the last room. Oh by the way, there is a $25 per person "spa" fee if you don't have any spa treatments done. That judt about doubles the price, not such a great deal. Since we are not sounding interested, we are given the option of having diner in there, a 5 star place with nothing over $30 dollars on the menu. Okay, we bite and take the room. By the way, the max room rate for the room we were in was $925 per night for a double. This coming from the legalese card required in hotel rooms. I've seen these before and I've never have paid even half the rate shown I think. I think these are the max gouging price that will be charged when the hotel room is the last one for 1000 miles and the Olympics are going on just down the road.

The dinner was good, very tasty and the appropriate quatities for people not wanting to gain back their last weight. You know how you regret ordering both the appetizer and a main course because you discover you weren't really that hungry after all and the appetizer was so much that you are already on the verge of stuffed. Not a problem here with the $17 one mint tin sized crab cake like thing. It was delicious dungusness crab, but left plenty of room for the main course.

To be continued

Memories

2009-05-02T11:06:00.001-07:00

May 2, 2009 – Been home for just over a week now and it does seem a little strange. The biggest strange item is how strange it doesn’t feel. We’ve been to East Africa 2twice before and the culture shock coming home was much more than it seems to be this time. I was expecting that there would be major things that were disconcerting to us after living in a developing country for 6 months and then coming home to the land of excess and comfort. But there hasn’t been that much of it. It all seems too familiar, like we were gone on a 6 day vacation, not a 6 month life experience. In fact the strangest thing is getting use to what time of the year it is. Both Joyce and I are thinking Fall in our heads, that the budding leaves and bare trees are a sign that the trees are dropping their foliage, not growing it. People and circumstances keep coming up where we are thinking it doesn’t make sense, like the school year being finished and that the weather is supposed to be turning warmer and colder. I think this has to do with us just going through 6 months of summer weather.

Previous times I’ve returned, entered our house and gone, wow look at everything I have, this is really overkill, how much of this do I really need. Very little of that this time. Last time it was 3 months before I got over the fact that I could just go to my kitchen faucet and get clean, safe drinking water. Only crosses my mind this time when I think about not feeling that way this time.

We also are not constantly thinking about how things were in Kenya for us. The thoughts and memories are fading into the back of our heads. Morgan even mentioned on the plane trip home that the memories that were so close to the surface just the day before were dispersing quickly.

Then there are the memories and discussions about events and life in Kenya that I haven’t written about and can. And since this blog is mostly to capture thoughts for myself, I’ve decided to keep going with this for a while and right about them as I think about them.

The painting in Kisumu ended up well. Shortly after we started painting the dividers for the preschool at the church and discovered that the paint was so bad any thoughts about painting walls soon left me. I thought it would take days just to paint the insides and our days were quickly running out. The last day we worked, the Tuesday before we were leaving, Rachael and we cousin Ace came to help and it was determined that they’d start on the walls. Since it was now their project and not ours, and they’d be around for awhile, they could go ahead and start, but I knew they’d not have much done, maybe the bottom half of one wall, by the end of the day. I was surprised that in no time they had finished the first wall and we’re moving on to the second and there was still plenty of paint. Since the partitions only needed small additions and touchups I left that to Joyce and Morgan and helped on the walls. The paint went on okay, covered okay, even where the scrapping prep work took us down to the plaster. And it made such a huge difference in the look. The walls were peeling so badly, were dirty and scuffed up, had the remains of untold items being taped to them that the fresh coat of paint, even with the marginal paint job, looked breathtaking. One shocker whenwe got home – I saw an article about this great paint and it was $55 a gallon. $55. I thought the $8 to $10 we were spending in Kenya was overpriced. What the heck makes a ca of paint worth $55? Maybe I won’t be painting the inside of my home anytime soon.

Friday Night Bingo. Joyce had brought along a Bingo set. She originally had thoughts of having an occasional Bingo night for the community. As most of our plans, that didn’t happen. But she did start playing it with the kids. I don’t know if they knew the game, but most seemed to catch on pretty quickly. Some were younger and some didn’t attend school, so they did have trouble knowing the numbers. But others kids were willing to help those. As long as Joyce didn’t move ahead to fast most of the numbers called got covered by the kids. And it was a game that they could not cheat at, because for each BINGO call, they would have to read back their bingo numbers to verify they were legit.

And what is Bingo without prizes. Bingo by itself without reward for the pure luck winner is exciting for about 3 and ½ minutes. We had brought many, hundreds, of little Oriental Trading Company gifts along with pencils and tooth brushes galore. And the prizes turned Bingo sessions into a glorious and rowdy time. And Bingo became the most request activity in a matter of days. The kids would show up the next day at the same time it was played the day before, eagerly anticipating the chance for more winner rewards. Of course we weren’t planning on playing everyday, nor did we. But when we did, somehow the word spread and kids appears out of no where.

The session usually lasted until the kids got so unruly and out of control that it was chaos. Finally Joyce figured out that she had to limit the prize winning for the day and once one won, they could play no more that session. Worked great and all the kids usually left happy as they all got something.

The most popular gift – toothbrushes. Even though all had gotten ones when we passed them out a couple weeks before, they were still the most sought after prize.

Reporting form the recesses of my mind,
Paul

Home Again, Home Again, Jiggity, Jig

2009-04-25T09:29:00.000-07:00

6:30am April 25th, 2009 – I’m sitting at home in Beaverton Oregon, with a sweatshirt on, on my own couch after getting 8 hours of wonderful sleep in my own bed, under my own down comforter. But still no shoes or socks.

The trip home started Thursday morning at 6am EAT (East African Time) which would have been 10pm local time. We awoke to an alarm, a rarity for us in Kenya as most of our days, other than at Christ’s Gift Academy) had little need for us to be up any particular time. Yet most days saw us up about 7am anyway. We finished the little packing that we had left, mostly just the last minute items needed for sleeping or getting ready in the morning. I tried checking in on line, but the connection was to slow and our time to get moving was approaching so I bagged it after 15 minutes when it started asking for every ones passport numbers.

Dick and Sandy were both up, ready to see us off. Dick made us eggs, laid by his chicks. They were tasty. I had my over-medium upon a piece of bread with some Greek seasoning sprinkled on top. Our last breakfast in Kenya.

Our travel plans had changed a couple days before. Originally we were to catch the 8am Easy Coach bus from Kisumu to Nairobi where Steve and Judi where to pick us up and take us to the airport. But the day before Steve called and said their plans had changed and they were going to come via Kisumu rather than risk the Mbita – Homa Bay road, possibly ending up in the ditch because of the muddy roads caused by all the rains lately. That was great by us as it meant riding and talking with them for 6 hours, and getting pit stops on demand.

We met Steve and Judi about 7:15 at their hotel, loaded our bags onto their Land Rover and sat down so they could have their breakfast. Morgan showed about 7:40. Even having arranged for the tuk-tuk the night before and having it arrive early did not work for her. She ended up having to call another one when the ordered one did not show. After a nice glass of mango juice for me it was time to say our final goodbyes to Dick and Sandy. Hugs all around and we piled into the car. I got the roomy shotgun position with Bea and Bea in the back. Yes, Steve and Judi’s girls have the same names, Beatrice. In fact their middle and last names are the same too. No, they didn’t do it intentionally. Judy adopted them about 10 years ago and they just happened to have the same names. They went with Big B and Little B for awhile until the younger one got taller then the older one. I guess this has caused some confusion at airports, showing up with 2 girls traveling together with the same names.

We had a pleasant trip into Nairobi. The road is much improved, with new tarmac most of the way and not many speed bumps. Only one stretch that we needed to take a side road to avoid the construction. A couple of potty breaks along the way and a stop at a nice resort next to a lake that had 1,000s of flamingo’s on it. A nice place, but the most expensive soda’s we’ve had all trip at a 100 bob apiece. A good 40 bob more than anyplace else. They also had ballooning available for just $420 US a piece. But the place did have a bar in the pool so I guess that justified the prices.

Boy, this is even boring me a little.

So moving on a little faster. In Nairobi, we found Nick, who happened to actually be staying pretty close to where Steve and Judi were going to be staying. Spent a few minutes repacking in a parking lot, getting the carry on bags lightened up and the check in ones stuffed, but fortunately not over weight. Had one last meal in Kenya, at the Java House by a Nakumatt, which happened to be the same place we ate when we met Heather and Brian in December. The food was good by Kenya standards, but only increased my anticipation to have some of the items I craved back home.

Off to the airport. Steve and Judi stayed with us until the end, the time we had to go through security to get into the checking counters. We didn’t know the routine, so were a little surprised when the time came to say goodbye. A few quick hugs and goodbyes and we were off to join our “real world” again. I guess the fast parting may have been a good thing, didn’t give us enough time to think about it and get emotional. This exit from Kenya was not like our other ones. Previous ones I always had more anticipation for, good or bad, looking toward being home and the need to get settled and back to reality. This one never struck me like that, still doesn’t as I sit here in my living room. This one is not like a new chapter in our life but like the sequel. We have disrupted our past like immensely with this adventure. Six months in a different land, Joyce leaving a job of 20 years, off in a month to a summer at camp in Colorado with nothing but getting resettle in between. And I’m glad I’m looking forward to it with more feelings of excitement than anxiousness.

We had 2 hours in the Nairobi airport before our flight and spent most of the time in the shops looking for items to spend our last few shillings on as we knew they were going to do us little good in the next few years.

Other than the bad layout for getting through the last security check the boarding process was smooth, the over head luggage room was available and the leg room seemed plentiful. This due to the fact that it was particularly room compared to all varieties of public transport in Kenya.

As we took off at 10:15 pm, I think I was not feeling much, mostly numb from not knowing how to think about what had just taken place the last 6 months, nor how the next 6 months would be. No personal video screens on this plane, only overhead ones. Didn’t matter as I hoped to sleep most of the way. After the meal was served I ordered a gin and tonic, popped an ambian and started reading. My hope for sleep was answered as I found myself 6 hours later waking up with my dinner tray and unfinished drink gone. Joyce was lying down on the 2 seats next to me. One of the advantages to being short is the ability to lie on just 2 airline seats. The large lady that was sitting next to us had fortunately moved. Most of the first leg was over, the second meal was about to be served and I was well rested.

In the Amsterdam airport we quickly sought out the reclined chairs in the quiet area by the meditation center. As the other laid down to sleep I walked on the next gate to verify its location and then hit the free shower. It water was warm and come in abundance.

With only a 5 hour layover we were soon boarding our last flight to home. The flight was only two-thirds full, the leg room was still good and we had our personal video screens. I spent the time eating meals, watching 3 movies and reading. Having slept on the last leg and know that we’d be home at noon, I stayed awake, planning on going to bed at a regular time in hopes of getting back in sync to Pacific Time.

We got into PDX 45 minutes early, clearing immigration and customs went smoothly with nothing being confiscated this time. We were greeted by Ruthie, Susy and Doug, Cindy (our ride home) and Morgan’s best friend Amy. After greetings and getting the chocolate chip cookies and dough Susy made for we that morning, we collected and bags and headed home.

It was a little disconcerting that things did not seem to be very unusual and strange to us. Other than the lack of not having car horns honking as we drove, it all seemed too familiar. As Morgan mentioned on the plan, the memories of our great times in Kenya seem to be fading and receding all too quickly. We’ll need to make very conscience effort not to let it slide away to quickly. As part of that effort, I’m planning on doing a few more blogs to recount some of the skipped items and to keep the memories fresh.

We got home and found the house in good shape with our renter just leaving to move on to temporary quarters until her next place is ready. It looked bare as many decorations and personal items had been packed and put away. The cats come and greeted us and both are fatter than ever. Even Jose who has always been skinny had bulked up and both will be going on a strict diet soon.

I’ll have no need to diet for a while. I finally got to weigh myself on my normal scale and was just over the 170 mark at 172.5 with cloths on. I’m hoping to keep a lot of that off. I hope to get into a regular exercising and put some weight on as muscle rather than flab.

The living room has exploding with unpacking. We’ve made our first trip to the store for provisions. Found mangos and pineapples available at 10 times the price we paid just a couple days prior. Joyce could not bring herself to buy tomatoes as they were $2 a pound (vs a nickel each) and didn’t look that good. We will miss walking down the road in Mbita and being able to purchase fresh fruits from the women in their rickety stands for just pennies.

Last night we spent over at our good friends Paul and Cindy for dinner and the Blazer play-off game. Had pizza and salad, both fabulous. I ate to much, will have to watch that going forward. My plan to be extra tired worked and I missed most of the second half of the game having temporary narcolepsy, falling asleep instantly many times and awaking to them all laughing at me. Made it home without falling asleep at the red lights (wow driving for the first time in 6 months).

Hit the wonderful bed and cozy comforter and soon fell asleep for 8 hours of not even moving.

In the next few days I plan on re-purchasing my car, unpacking both my luggage and stored items, re-arranging the garage so we can get into the freezer and reading all the e-mails I skipped while we were gone. And mostly just catching up with the many family and friends we’ve missed so much to see how they are doing.

Reporting from Beaverton,
Paul

News Highlights

2009-04-22T01:55:00.000-07:00

April 19th, 2009 – An article about aging, winkles and age-spots shows a picture of an older Kenyan woman holding up 2 double edge razor blades. No explanation about the blades, I only assume that they are used to cut off the age spots.

Picture accompanying article about Kenya cricket shows a 2003 photo the captain while taking about the 2011 world matches. I guess they camera broke a while back and they have no current picture of him.

The Somalia pirates make the news everyday. Interesting that the US only got involved in this battle after one of their ships got taken. It has been going on for months. Bold moves are needed to combat this. These pirates are making millions using small speed boats.

Seventy-five percent of those polled do not think the coalition government will make it until the next election in 2012.

Bone (boo-knee) the 4 and a half year old of the housekeeper can name Obama when he sees a picture of him in the paper. He also calls him a Mzungu.

Obama may be here in Kenya twice in the next few months. There are two conferences coming up that he will get formal invites to from president Kibaki. Neither sounded like real possibilities to me, but I’m sure the Kenyans are thinking he will come and all their problems will go away and they will become a world power.

Thirty-five year old Kenya man killed by neighbors after making comments about doing away with his 73 year old sugar mama.

Kenya and Uganda are still fighting over the fishing island of Mgingo. I understand this is a very small island, but both countries want it, probably just because the other does. They have been battling and harassing each other over it for months. They are now going to spend $1.2 million on doing a survey. Both sides agree to pay half, but Kenya as put aside the full amount in case Uganda does not come up with their share by the deadline. Knowing that, why would Uganda add anything? I think I’ll offer to do it for a 3rdof that and by myself a nice GPS unit and go surf to the island and Google Earth. Should take me about a day counting the time to have an eight hour lunch.

And the top headline of the day “Church Loses Battle for Sarah Obama’s Soul.” The Second Day Adventist church come within moments of baptizing and converting Barack’s grandmother. She was even dress and ready to attend the service. But her family stepped in to stop it, saying that she was Muslim and that she did fully understand what they SDA was intending to do.

On to other items.

Joyce is really enjoying Bone here, she still needs her kid fixes and he’s the only one around. He’s going to be missing her big time when we leave. She has been working on colors with him. Like most small kids here, it’s more of running through the list of colors you know until you hit the correct one when you are shown a color. Joyce finally decided to concentrate on just one color, yellow. After a couple of days I think he finally may have that color down.

Joyce announced to me this morning that she was going to take a job at a primary school so she can work with kids. I thought that was quite a revelation, but did not surprise me after seeing enjoying her time with the kids here and at Christ’s Gift Academy. But she decided not to since it would interfere with her going back to work for Lee. It took a moment until I realized that she was telling me about a dream she was having. I think this one could be very prophetic.

There is a young lady and her child, maybe younger sister, out on the back patio right now. They were having a cup of tea just a moment ago. Joyce asked Dick who they were and he didn’t know. Maybe related to Peterlyse, the Sunday yard man he thought. People just show up here and of course think they are entitled to whatever is sitting out to drink or eat. Dick says we’ll make sure to lock everything up when we leave. That would drive me crazy. I don’t mind visitors but I’d like to know who they are.

Joyce got excited this morning on collecting the eggs from Dick’s chicks. She and Bone went out to gather them up. Even better was the fact that they laid them for her on the spot. Three of them came out as she was picking up the ones that were already laid. So fresh they were still moist on the outside. An interesting note here is that eggs are not refrigerated here. They sit out for days without any adverse affects. So does the milk for that matter. But the milk is high temperature treated to make it stable at “room temperature”.

It seems 70 percent of Kenya is not getting the rain that is needed. Kisumu area is not one of those. In fact, people have mentioned how much and hard the rains have been here in the last week. Areas nearby are even having problems with flooding which has washed away many homes and caused several deaths. When it rains it pours.

Went out to Hippo Point this week. It’s a place where hippos regular come ashore at night to graze and know for having great sunsets. The hippos didn’t come and the clouds floated in and just covered the sun. Fortunately we only got a few drops of rain while we waited. Saw a great tree for climbing while we were there. A short trunk, many branches, most coming straight out and then gradually sloping up. Went to investigate and discovered this tree had thorn like spikes all over it. They were sharp and hard enough to go through most soles. I stayed on the ground.

We have made a few trips here on bota botas (bike taxis – you sit on the cushion over the back fender). Mostly Dick chauffeurs us around. So we know the ropes and the cost. Usually we just tell them the location and get on, no price negotiation before hand. Coming from Tusky’s market to Dick and Sandy’s is a 25/= ride. We went to fetch a ride yesterday and the driver told us his price as we started to board – 50/= each. We laughed and said that was a Mzungu price. They insisted and we walked away, the other end of the lot had more available. For fun we asked them the price – got 30 from one and 40 from another. The 30/= guy tried to quickly tell the other that 30 should be fine. We said 20 was the correct price and walked away again. The next two we simply told the location we wanted, hopped on and paid our normal 25/= when we got off. No complaints from the drivers and they seemed pleased with the extra 5 above the common price.

Five days and counting,
Paul

This and That

2009-04-22T01:54:00.001-07:00

April 16, 2009 – I took April 15th off from blogging so I could do my taxes. Not really, I filed an extension last month. Should be an interesting couple of years for taxes for us, with the long stretch of not having any income. Hopefully the stretch won’t last real long once we get back to the states. Of course Joyce was wise enough to line up a job for herself shortly after we get back.

I went to get cash out of an ATM yesterday and it didn’t work. The receipt said that the amount would be credited back to my account which is a little reassuring. I’ll check our account in a couple days and see if it all worked. If not, I guess I go to the bank and see if they can push it through. I’ve heard a horror story about the run around when something like this happens. It is Barclay’s so at least it’s not a Podunk local bank.

Haven’t been able to get to the internet as much as I expected the last week or so, so I have a few blogs to post all at once.

We painted individual blackboards for the pre-school today. Dick cut up some boards and Joyce and I sanded and painted 80 little blackboards for the kids to use. I hope it works, I’ve never used blackboard paint before. They do it all the time here in the classrooms, right onto the plastered wall. My main concern is that the surface is smooth enough. We’ve also been asked to but lines on the board for the kids to write on. I can’t see doing that very easily with white enamel paint and a small paint brush.

Have I mentioned how bad the paint is here.

At this time in 7 days, just one week, we should all be on the ground in Nairobi getting ready to get to the airport for our 10pm flight. Time flies. We hope to have one last dinner with Steve and Judi and kids as they have offered to pick us up in Nairobi and drop us off at the airport. They sure have been generous in doing things for us. They have 3 of our bigger bags we are to check at the airport so we haven’t had to worry about hauling them through Kisumu with us.

Cont’g April 18th, 2009 – Have I mentioned how bad the paint is here. Maybe I’m not use to using enamel paint, but the stuff just does not cover.

Here are Dick and Sandy’s the power has been pretty flaky of late. May have seen why yesterday as we walked up to catch a bota bota. We came upon a repair main at one of the main power poles. The one with multiple transformer on it and a bunch of other wiring boxes all in a jumble. The repair man was standing atop his pickup, or more precisely, the canopy of his pickup bed. He had a 20 foot pole in hand that had a small hook on one end. He was reaching up to the top of the poles to some connections and ‘jingling’ the wires. Whatever was moving occasionally hit something and let off a small shower of sparks. I’m a little surprised we have power as often as we do.

Yesterday we were painting (have I mentioned how bad the paint is here?) and needed a few more supplies. I think it took 6 or 7 trips to the hardware store to get what we needed. Not all because we forgot something, but because they needed to get it from a ‘supplier’ because it was not in stock. If you don’t want cream or white paint you are probably out of luck of it being in stock. Morgan finally got back after one of the trips with the signal red paint we needed. We are going through much more paint than expected, some from the old wood soaking it up and also because it does not cover well. It was a different brand then the other paints we were using. We opened the red to find it like water color paint. Using it made the panel appear like we were looking at it through rose colored glasses. So off Morgan was again to exchange it for the brand we had before, which she had to make another trip for since they had to go find it.

Dick raises chickens and turkeys. The area around them smells terrible, putrid, I need to gag bad.

If you are ever in Kisumu on a Friday night check out the Simba Club. It has a terrific Indian buffet for only 500 kshs. Good food, includes dessert that includes ice cream. Careful on the drinks, they as spendy – Joyce’s double tot of Armarula was as much as the dinner. Located on the main road between the stage area and Tusky’s.

Thursday night we went to a Rotary Dinner at Club 0, a new place in town. One of the members, a retired Indian engineer alcoholic, made some good curry chicken. We, being Americans, showed up on time, maybe a little early. The next person was 30 minutes late I think. Just over a dozen showed up. Four whites, two blacks and the rest Indian. Supposedly the club has been going down hill since they have let nationals in. They are just looking for handouts or ways of scrounging (scamming) money from it. The cook, Konie, started throwing brain teasers at me, so that kept me occupied for the 1 or more hours between the time others showed up and dinner was finally ready. Only one I did not get was the 5x5 square of dots that could all be gone through with just 8 straight lines. Another fun one was how to add one line to the equation 5 + 5 + 5 = 550 to make it correct. Good food, the rest of the side dishes were not much to write about.

There are movie theaters here, showing second run US movies and Indian films. Currently the one close by is showing The International, Revolutionary Road and an Indian film. The theater is even mildly air conditioned. I think the popcorn and other concessions are a little over priced for this area, but not as bad as the US concession stands. The Tuesday special is admission, soda, popcorn and a hotdog for just 280/=. Just 80/= more than regular admission. No economy hours here. The seats are like US ones and both theaters in Kisumu have stadium seating. Still looking forward to going to a few movies once we are back home.

Dinner time, got to run. Mashed potatoes and local grown turkey.

Gobble gobble,
Paul

Ten Days to Home

2009-04-22T01:52:00.000-07:00

April 14, 2009 – Just 10 days from now we should be home, not counting the 10 hour time difference. That seems a little hard to believe. I’m not thinking about it to much right now, it least not to many vitale things, more of the things I want to do and eat when I get home. Lasagna, a good hamburger, some Ben and Jerry’s ice cream, or perhaps some B & Rs. It’ll be tough to choice the flavor. A tender steak, maybe polish sausage with sweet hot mustard. Even sushi is sounding good to me. To do – visiting people is the biggest item on the list, at least during the first few days in-between jet lag naps. My parents, Joyce’s mom. Bros and Sises on both sides of the family. Some of those little ones I’m sure are going to have changed a lot. Friends from church and work places. Neighbors. Others a-list items – the praise service at church, getting a few pictures printed. Many more items will be joining the list, but most can wait to be put onto it until we actually arrive home.

Follow-up on the last story – no critter in the ear, that leaves old age as the most likely candidate.

Joyce and I are now in Kisumu. We’ll be here until a day or two before our last day. We are not sure whether we want to spend a couple days in Nairobi at the end or not. Will play that one as it comes. We are slowing working on helping out at the Kiwanis Pre-school. They plan on moving during the break and we are helping with painting, both the new place and some of the old furniture.

The paint here is painful to work with. I don’t do much painting back home, but I know it’s never been this tough to get a decent coat on a piece of furniture, no matter how rough or dirty it was prior to starting. We did find out one secret we didn’t now before – use water base emulsion paint first on bare wood before covering it with the enamel paint. I wonder it this would have helped us in Mbita painting the Polytechnic doors and signs. At least the tables will look ‘fresh’ for now.

We are staying with Dick and Sandy Schabel. They are the owners (renters really) of the first place we stayed when we hit Kenya 5+ months ago. We met the finally in late January when we returned from Uganda. The timing makes sense since they were in India during our first stay but graciously invited us to stay at their place anyway. Here is one of those God putting the right people in your life connecting stories. Last summer Joyce had a Partners in Kenya booth at the Day of the African up at the Forestry Center. Kelsey, a New Yorker who happened to be spending the summer in Portland with her aunt, attended. She and Joyce had a chat and she told Joyce to e-mail Rachael, a mazungu living in Kisumu that she had met in a trip to Kenya last year. Joyce e-mailed Rachael asked about a place to stay in Kisumu for a couple of night when we first arrived. She knew Dick and Sandy from Bellingham Washington where she first worked marketing Sandy’s Chiropractic business and soon became fast friends. Separately from each other they decided to come to Kisumu. They offer up their home for us when we first arrive. We hit it off with them when we did finally meet and they made that ‘anytime you are in the area offer’ you can stay with us. We’ve taken them up on that a couple times already. Careful what you offer us once we are back. We seem much more likely to take people up on offers then we use to.

More critter stories or a non-critter story. I’ve not been feeling up to par for over a week, mostly a rumbling stomach and the fun intestinal things that go on with that. When we hit Kisumu we decide to go to the clinic to have ourselves checked out for little critters – amebas, worms, parasites including the infamous Lake Victoria Bilharzias, and malaria. Happy to report we gat a clean bill of health. We were a little surprised based on our swimming, bathing, drinking cooking with Lake Vic water and all the other not quiet sanitary situations we have been in. I may still take the worm and Bilharzias meds we bought in Arusha after we get home.

Easter, like Christmas, was anti-climatic here. We had discussed various options here in Arusha with Dick and Sandy. Lutheran, Catholic, Sikh and others. Come Sunday morning we bagged all of them and decided to stay home. Until about 10:30am and Sandy suggested going to the Catholic Church because they often have good music, and sitting in the rear so we could exit if it got way to long. Didn’t work out so well and the church was overflowing and it was standing room only pouring out onto the steps. So not to waste the trip, we did the vegetable shopping at the open air market across the street. According to Dick, it is the largest open air market in East Africa.

10 days – that’s less than 1 ½ weeks.

Reporting from Kisumu,
Paul

And the Critters Go Quiet

2009-04-22T01:50:00.000-07:00

April 11, 2009 – One of the great things about leaving in a place with little power and not many cars is the quiet that comes over the Town of Mbita as the darkness falls. More accurately, the sounds of human activity dissipates out as sounds of nature amplify. As the sound of the wind running through the trees dies down the sounds of the little critters are revealed. It’s dark so the critters can not be seen, but sound mostly like small birds chirping and large bugs twittering.

These sounds of small critters were most obvious as we laid in bed at night, with the windows wide to catch the few small breezes that might pass by, fading into or out of sleep the several times a night. Occasionally, as I repositioned myself on the thin, concave mattress, accented by the wood slates protruding, I’d marvel at how at times the whole of nature ceased and slept all at the same time and not a sound could be heard. The entire world of critters all observed a few moments in silence all listening for the sound that was not coming.

And then during the next restless tossing so get blood back to the arm that had fallen asleep, they were alive again, talking and telling each other many delightful stories.

And this was consistent happening many of the night where sleep did not come easy.

Of the places we were, this was most obvious in Mbita with its fewer modern developments. This was brought home to me after we returned from Tanzania to Mbita and were resting very comfortably at Steve and Judi’s.

One morning I was flipping sides looking for the perfect comfortable position and noticed again that the critters had gone quiet. I flipped one more time to my other side and they all awoke, waking just as the morning light was breaking through. The other side was better I thought, so I flipped back and the critters faded off again. Wow I thought I never noticed the abruptness of the critters slumber and waking before. I lifted my head off my pillow and the critters awoke, place my head down again and they slumbered off to silence. Ah-ha, I had some loss of hearing in my left ear. When I slept on my left side with the right ear exposed, the critters chattered. One the other side with the right ear tight against the pillow, they silenced.

Not all sounds disappeared, it only seemed to be the chatty critters that silences, the roosters and dogs still came through. I can not say when this loss actually occurred. I remember the silent critters at the parish, but can not say for certain if it started there or I came from home this way. Maybe I just have a critter stuck in my hear, hindering my hearing.

Coming to you from Kisumu,
Paul

Joyce vs Paul

2009-04-08T21:57:00.000-07:00

April 8, 2009 – This is not a Battle Royal between us. Today I just noticed another difference in how we approach life here in Mbita. I’d say I’m the cautious one to Joyce’s ‘let’s do it’.

Today was Closing Day at Christ’s Gift Academy. That is the last day of the term. It’s a shorten day with a special schedule. CGA today started with assembly for a couple songs and the flag raising. They then had bible education followed by porridge. It was back to classes for a short while followed by chapel where it was girls against boys in putting together a timeline of biblical event. Joyce got to lead a few songs during this period. Then a few long-winded remarks by the head master and most of the kids were excused for the term. A few selected kids, usually the best in the classes, got to stay around to help clean up their classrooms. This includes moving the desks outside and mopping the floors with rags. The cleanup crews got to have a special lunch, one that included both eggs and meat (beef), two items that are never served to the whole school.

Junior, one of our kids, was around for the lunch and Joyce started hatching her plan of inviting a few of our kids up to our current living place for a visit. Not all of them, just a few. Nice idea I do admit, but the logistics seem a little forbearing to me. My reasoning is – if not all the kids are going to be invited, how do you decide who gets to come. So as not to show too much favoritism or hurt feelings, how do you get the word out to the selected without the others knowing. And what about the one that you know will be waiting at the gate of ICIPE for us as we arrive home already? My solution, don’t invite anyone. While I call this cautious, others would call it the easy way out. This is probably true.

To Joyce, it’s this would be a nice thing to do, I want to do it, I can make it work out. So as we were walking home, she sent Junior ahead to slyly invite a couple of the other kids that he wanted to and to meet us at the gate. Sure enough, 4 other kids were waiting by the gate for our arrival. We stop and talk to them for a few minutes and I take the easy way out by heading in and leaving Joyce to explain to the extra kids that they can not all come in. Sure enough, about 5 minutes later she shows up with just 4 kids and I’m sure the others didn’t have their feelings hurt too much. That’s Joyce and her ability to make situations work and to be very polite and tactful and handle others very gently.

This is also why she got 95% percent of the requests for “assistance” from many local people and I only had to field the other 5%. This I did not mind at all.

I must say that the kids had a wonderful time visiting us. They got soda and biscuits, got their picture taken and got to look at pictures of themselves from days past on the computer. It was a special treat for them, it was the right thing to do, the logistics is just an excuse us cautious types use.

There are many of these stories. As we were clearing out of the Parish housing and heading to Mombasa, she was giving away many items we no longer needed or wanted to carry with us on the rest of the journey. Of course we didn’t have enough of everything to give all the kids the same thing. Nor was it only our kids. At the parish there were always extra kids around, which was fine, but special things we preferred to treat our kids to. I would have just not given out anything. Joyce gave out everything and then some. Like her mother, Joyce is one to be concerned about making things ‘even’. Of course it all worked out for the best. New item -----
Bryon continues to pull at our hearts. This 3 year old speaks about 5 words of English. While he probably understands a few more, he has only learned a few all since we have been around. But we all love him. At time he will not give us any acknowledgement, other times he throws small temper tantrums especially when it’s time to go home. But all that pales in the comparison to the times when he greets us with his huge smile and the fat dimpled cheeks. When he calls out your name to show you something. When he see’s you coming and takes off running the other way with his laughter trailing behind, looking forward to the chase.

During swimming this weekend when Morgan visited, we noticed his ear was oozing quite a bit, dripping out of his ear actually. This has been a recurring problem and we’ve seen it several times while we have been here. A few times we gave him Children’s Tylenol because he was listless and was very hot. But we heard his grandmother had medicine for him and he was usual back to his self in a day.

This time Joyce decided it was time to have him seen by a doctor and to find out for sure what his problem was. So Monday she tracked him down to take him to the clinic at ICIPE. She left school early and wondered down to where he lives and hangs out. She found him. Leaning against a building, crying loudly without either his grandmother or Magdalene (his older ‘sister’ that is usually caring for him) around, with his pants full of poop. How sad it is to think that this is not an unusual situation.

Joyce didn’t have much time as the clinic was closing soon. Fortunately the used clothing spot had a new load in and was selling on the street before ICIPE. So Byron got a new pair of shorts. At the clinic she took him into the restroom to clean him up and a kind lady helped out with some cloth to wipe with.

Turns out that Byron has a very serious ear infection, one that could result in the lost of hearing if not treated. And it takes not just a few days of medication, but 21 days. Twenty-one days of medicine 3 times a day and of cleaning out his ear, having him lay down for 5 minutes to let it wick out. Joyce got all the medication needed and directions written in Luo as his grandmother knows little more English then Byron does. Joe’s housekeeper, Rose, happen to come around shortly after Joyce got back from the Clinic. She was giving Byron a full bath which was probably his first time in a real bathtub. Rose knew Bryon and his grandmother. She went with Joyce to take Byron home and explain what needed to be done with the medications and ear cleaning. Rose even offered to take Bryon for his follow-up in 21 days.

This is all good, I just wish I’d really thought everything would be followed through. Twenty-one days is a long time. My fear is that once he and his ear seems better that the 3 times a day will decrease to one or stop all together. Why not, the extra medication could be used the next time it happens. Secretly I was wishing it would have been even more serious, something that only could have been treated in the US. This would have been door to get him home with us. I’ve imagined several times how taking him home with us would be. Us not knowing Luo, him not knowing English. Even here I lose my cautious stance and figure we’d make it on smiles, hugs and made up sign language.

Next item ---
Another major church holiday is coming right up. Easter week is here and it is approaching as stealthily as Christmas did. There is not a marshmallow bunny in sight and I have not seen one colored egg. The church services we’ve attended over the last couple of weeks have barely mentioned it. While this is not a joyous occasion with the unjust crucifixion of our Lord Jesus, it was a necessary one. At the morning devotions are CGA we have been studying the Israelite’s escape from Egypt. This included the laws for sacrifices needed to atone for sins. Since we as humans, sinful by nature, can not live a life that can offer eternal life nor sacrifice enough, God had to send the perfect sacrifice. Yet is was not the just His death, but his rising, showing his power over death and sin that is truly important. Without the resurrection, the rest does not matter. This being the conclusion that brings about our salvation, I don’t understand why Easter Sunday is not a much more joyous occasion.

Blessed Easter,
Paul

A Few Random Thoughts

2009-04-06T07:57:00.000-07:00

Apr 4, 2009 – It’s Saturday morning and I just got back from my fifth and final anti rabies shot. For you oldies out there, the shots are in the arm, not the stomach like we heard of when we were kids.

It’s a glorious morning and not too hot yet, but it is not 10 am yet and we aren’t out in the sun. It has rained heavily the last 3 of 4 nights. Heavy enough to actually leave mud on the roads. A welcome sight for people here as they need to get the crops growing. It’s late in coming, hopefully it will continue. There has already been a couple false starts this season. Unlike the Oregon downpours these are in the form of thunder storms, huge thunderstorms relative to what I’m use to.

One comic thing to us here are how the motorbike drivers dress. A lot of them wear heavy jackets and caps, sometimes even gloves. Ski suits are not that uncommon. The most comic are the drivers with chest protectors. At least that is what they look like. Usually a bright florescent color, lime green or neon orange. My guess would be softball varieties and not high end. Not sure why they wear them, maybe a fashion statement.

The rains bring out moving meals for the gathering. Walking down the roads you see bands of kids scurrying about with pails and bowls gathering tasty creepy crawlies. They say they are best fried, but they’ll eat them raw and live, after pulling the wings off. According to the kids, these are flying insects that burrow into the ground, shed their wings and come out as a crawly bug. So there are hundreds of thousands of the wings all over the ground. They don’t create a solid cover, but you still wonder where they all come from and can there really be that many bugs around to drop them all. See the pics of these at http://picasaweb.google.com/MaiersInAfrica.

I can across a note I made a year ago after our cruise – I weighed 215 pounds. That’s 40 pounds more than I am now. I should market this Mbita diet, I could make a fortune.

We were just down at the lake with the kids, the last swimming safari. Morgan is in town for the weekend to say goodbye to the kids. We walked down to their main hangout by Father’s and Uncle’s place and soon had found most of the gang. We headed off through the parish to gather the last couple. We cut through the back way so not to draw a unwanted crowd of kids and sent a couple by the church to round up the last couple.

Byron was there. Poor kid, he has a chronic ear infection, often with quantities of white puss flowing out to the point of dripping. We have noticed this every since we first got here. Anyway, he had a great time playing with Morgan in the water, floating and splashing and having a great smile on his face. After a while and sat on the dock with Joyce. After he dried she tried a few times to get his cloths back on him, which he would have none of. None of that is until Morgan started putting her cloths on, then he was fine with it.

The best pictures don’t get caught on camera. This is for a variety of reasons, not having the camera with you, not being quick enough to get it out or getting pointed and focused, it not being an appropriate place or time or as today, the battery running out. We often talk of needed an eye-cam, where you can just blink and record the shot. Missed some good ones today – he bike driver in his winter cost – wearing it backwards for some reason Morgan burying kids in the sand and making mermaids out of them. Kids running and flipping into the water. The fisherman whacking the mostly dead fish with a 1x3.

We had spotted a fish 10 yards off the dock. Couldn’t figure it out at first, but then realized that a fish was floating on its side with his fin sticking into the air. Occasionally it would flap. I pointed it out and the kids took out after it. The first time they moved to swiftly and it dove under the water. It surfaced a moment later and the next attempt they approached more slowly and Magdalene got a hand on it before it submerged. On the third try the fisherman shooed the kids off and took out after the semi-dead fish in his boat. He paddled up next to it, grabbed his 1x3 stick and whacked it, knocking it under the surface again. He waited another moment for it to resurface and then scooped it up with a bucket. Think of the lucky person that gets to have this prime Lake Victoria tilapia for dinner.

Time to go work on pictures. I’ve been shooting birds again, which means a few hundred shots to go through for a very few good ones.

Reporting from Mbita,
Paul

Ice Cold Coke

2009-03-31T10:29:00.000-07:00

Mar 31 2009 – It’s 7pm and I’m sitting, sipping a ice cold Coca-Cola with ice. I think this is my second ‘iced’ drink in over 5 months. The first was at a hotel in Mombasa – a mixed drink. I really don’t feel like I’m in rural Kenya right now. Especially since I’m still feeling bloated from the 3 course meal I had for lunch at a local 5 star resort. Three courses may not sound like much, but the main course had 5 or 6 items to it. Yes, 5 stars. That’s a little relative to other resorts, but I didn’t even believe it when I first heard such a place existed near Mbita. It is actually on the back side of Rusinga Island, about 10 KM away. Steve and Judi’s got invited by an acquaintance who helps manage the place and asked if we could come along. The place is pretty marvelous. It’s definitely a couple steps above the Safari Village we stayed at one night. While it has been neglected a bit over the last 4 years, they are trying to get it back up to prime condition and are doing a good job of it. It sits right on the shore of Lake Victoria, has a large grassy area that is actually green. It has 8 nice sized cabana like structures with a max occupancy of about 30.

We ate lunch outside on the lawn at a table that was elegantly preset for the 5 of us. After our lemonade and cookies that we had after we first arrived, we moved over to the table for lunch. The table was set with real plates, and I had 5 or 6 pieces of silverware just for myself. There was a separate bread plate, clothe napkins, and water and wine goblets made of blown glass. Also set on the table were the oil and vinegar flasks for the salad, a craft of this pepper, garlic, and other spices soaking in sherry used to spice up your soup if you wanted, salt and butter.

We started with bread that was spicy and had sun dried tomatoes in it. I’m sure there is a proper name for it, but that’s beyond my sophistication. Then came the cucumber soup. I did try the sherry concoction with it and it did add zip to it. This was followed by the main course of rice, cooked in some oil that turned it yellow, and had peas and almonds in it, a fish stew that had tender fish, veggies and lots of other wonderful stuff in it along with the tasty sauce, a Greek salad, a salad of chick peas with a coconut accent, a beets and oranges vegetable dish, a green salad and a personal size quiche. I guess that is 7 items. The last 2 items I had to put on my bread plate as my main plate not longer had room. Joyce and I enjoyed the white wine while Steve and Judi had the red. For you wine connoisseurs I have no idea what either of them were.

Fortunately I passed on the seconds because dessert was a banana cream pie in a delicious graham cracker crust with a caramelized top. What sweetness. Topped this all off with a cup of what appears to be real coffee, not the instant stuff that most places serve. This was a meal that rivals anything I’ve had back in the US. Not planning on having dinner tonight.

We heard that a lot of people just fly in to this place, using the private airstrip they have. But tourism is down, even over last year after the violence. So they are try to attract more locals. There are a couple other high class resorts like this around we hear, some still operating, some not, and one that might be bull dozed for a road around the island it is on. These places must be hobbies for the owners as I can’t imagine that they make enough money to actually support them selves, even at the $300+ a night room rates.

Joyce is currently reading some of my blogs. Usually nobody in the family reads my blogs, so I can say anything I want and they don’t know what I’ve said or commented about them. However, some of you out there are sending back e-mails about items that raised Joyce’s curiosity and she needed to see what I said about her. Thanks Susy and Ruthie.

A few people have mentioned that we look thin in some of the pictures and need some fattening up. We are open to any invites and have received a couple already which we will accept and look forward to. Thanks MM, does Tuesday night work for you? I also plan on fishing for some invites from others whom I know cook up wicked good meals. I also figure it will be a good way to catch up with friends and family once we are back.

We are still waiting for the rainy season to set in. I thought it was coming a couple of times, but the rains stopped after a couple of days. The locals are needing the rain as they are waiting to plant crops and don’t do it until the rains start for sure. They want to make sure that the plants don’t sprout and then wither away from lack of moisture. The rains are already half a month late in coming. The area is already in draught conditions and another rainy season with little rain will put a lot of strain on the food sources locally. Many areas are already claiming a big lack of food and serious starvation conditions. It’s mind boggling to me how an area on the second largest fresh water lake in the world does not have enough water to grow crops.

News Flash …… Prime Minister Raila Odinga is a new man. His old self was washed away when he saw the light, repented and accepted Jesus Christ as his Lord and saviour. Raila promised to lead the nation back to God.

This would be fantastic if it turns out to be true but some people are skeptical. Raila is a politician and some see this as molding oneself to gain the most acceptance. This country really does need some God fearing leaders to straighten it out and get people that work for the good of all the people not just themselves.

And from the international news desk …. Gambian authorities, including police, soldiers and intelligence agents have taken about 1000 alleged witches in a campaign that is terrorizing the tiny West African nation. Authorities are inviting ‘witch doctors’ from Guinea who combat witches.

This is a big reality in parts of the culture hear.

Time to kick back and put in one of those Friends dvds.

Fat and happy in Mbita,

Paul

ICIPE and Kisumu

2009-03-29T11:41:00.001-07:00

Mar 29^th, 2009 – We are under a month away from being home and can hardly believe it. Time seems to be speeding up and while 2 months ago we’d thought it would be forever until our time to deport, it now seems like it is screaming up on us. I think we will all be leaving on a high note with our last experiences.

Joyce and I got back a few hours ago from our trip to Kisumu to visit Morgan and see how she is doing. Kisumu is on the north east corner of the pan-handle of Lake Victoria that extends into Kenya. It is the 4^th largest city in the country at about 280,000 residents. But it seems huge to us with many modern conveniences that we don’t have access to here in Mbita. There are grocery stores that sell cheese and take more than 2 minutes to walk through. A lot of the roads are paved. Buildings are more than 3 stories tall. You can get a latte while you surf the net. And not only do they have movie theaters, but the one we went to actually had air conditioning, at least to the second movie we went to. That’s right, 2 movies in two days. We, Joyce, Morgan and I, first went to see Will Smith in Seven Pounds but ended up seeing Adam Sandler’s Bedtime Stories as the poster advertising what was showing hadn’t been updated yet. Entertaining if you haven’t seen a movie in a long time. The next day the 3 of us were joined by Dick and Sandy, whom we were staying with, and saw Steve Martin’s Pink Panther 2. Steve was funny and the air conditioner was actually working so this one rated a thumbs up. Movies are one thing that we are missing and plan on going to a few when we return.

There are also a lot of Mazungus in Kisumu and it doesn’t feel like the Mbita Kenya we have grown use to. Parts of life are so US normal and I find myself falling back into old habits very easily and living US style. Such as having ice cream and putting it away in a freezer. But of course they is a lot of Kenya in Kisumu – run down houses, hawking selling wares off their blankets on the sidewalks, matatus and bota botas everyplace. And people asking the white people for handouts. At this point I prefer the simplicity of Mbita. But that is changing for us too.

Before I get to that, an update on Morgan. She is liking Kisumu a lot and the girls she are helping out and living with. The schedule doesn’t seem to hectic, but keeps her busy. She is getting around Kisumu like a pro and likes the conveniences that the bigger city provides.

And Nick is finding things to do in Nairobi. Just reported to us that he is playing basketball in the Kibira slums and things are picking up for the upcoming fund raiser. Derek, a volunteer at Christ’s Gift Academy is going to visit him on his way through Nairobi.

Back to Mbita – As Joyce puts it we are moving up the food chain. We started in housing on the Catholic Parish compound – It had intermittent power, no running water, a jiko for cooking and an outhouse. But still it was better than a large portion of the local population. This definitely gave us a taste of how locals live more so than our other housing arrangements and a taste of how much starch there is on the diet here. It also lead to getting to know the community itself better since we had to travel out into it on a frequent basis to pick up food and phone cards. This was our longest housing stop, being our home from mid November to mid February. This gave us a great appreciation for our luxury and abundance back home. Our next stay in Mbita was Steve and Judi’s home. They are the ones we are working with at Christ’s Gift Academy. They have a nice 4 bedroom home with a living/dining room area, a kitchen, a veranda, an inside toilet and showering area. While they only have solar power, they do have occasional running water and a rain water collection system. They live a much more westernized life style that particularly shows up in their eating habits with a nice variety of food. This is helped by the fact they have a gas oven/stove. However they have no refrigerator, but do use space in the freezers of friends. Our last 2 weeks in Mbita will have us living in a flat at ICIPE. We are staying with Joe at his 2 bedroom apartment in probably the best accommodations available in Mbita. ICIPE, being a major research facility has development much of their own infrastructure. They have treated water, which we still boil, generator backed-up power, and communication with the outside world via internet. While there is not a phone system that goes beyond the facilities fence line, we do have access to a refrigerator, hot water, running water, a bathtub with shower, one that actually projects water in streams, a flushing toilet and internet in the apartment. Joe also has satellite TV, a DVD player and a color TV. I find myself quickly succumbing to these luxury and have already given in to watching episodes of Friends of which we have access to 5 seasons of DVDs. I planned on not giving in to watching TV just because I could, but quickly gave in as soon as the devil woman Joyce enticed me with episodes of Friends. So I plan on pointing fingers at her and blaming her for my downfall. After all, who could resist such temptation which was being forced upon me?

Well I need to go – upload this blog on the convenient and relatively fast internet and take my hot shower before climbing into a comfortable bed which I have the option of having a fan blow on me all night.

Living the good life in Mbita,

Paul